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| Indicator light fuse keeps burning out; Also effects transmission | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 10 2015, 12:28 AM (548 Views) | |
| chevmet99 | Jul 10 2015, 12:28 AM Post #1 |
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I have a 1999 Chevrolet Metro LSI, automatic 4-door. The other day, I was driving to a restaurant and noticed that my indicator lights weren't working. When I got there, I checked the fuse box under the steering column and pulled the one for the indicator lights. It was burned, so I replaced it. When I left, I checked the blinkers, and they seemed fine, but when I took the car out of park, there was resistance. I checked the lights again, and they weren't working. Checked the fuse again. Burned out. I can drive the car, but it resists when I try to take it out of park (i assume because of power loss to that part) , and takes a long time to shift gears, and the indicator lights don't work. I have a short somewhere, so I was going to buy a crimping tool, splicers, wire, wire cutters, and a tool to find the short. I'm completely new at this, but have been doing some "research" on youtube via Scotty Kilmer. Is there anything else that could be causing this other than a bad wire? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. |
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| myredvert | Jul 10 2015, 02:34 AM Post #2 |
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myredvert
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Have you checked your OBD system for operation and codes? Before you go all Scotty Kilmer on it, you may want to get a Factory Service Manual and follow the same procedures the professionals that you are not going to pay $100/hr would be using to diagnose the system. Those guys wouldn't be watching YouTube videos and "figuring out" how to diagnose the system, those procedures have already been figured out by the factory. And, Scotty may not have considered the Transaxle Range Switch might be on the same circuit, but the factory sure did. ![]() I'm not familiar with the 99, what is the actual name of the fuse that you replaced? Was it by any chance the BACK fuse? "Indicator lights" does not ring a bell either. ![]() good luck! Where in Ohio are you?Edited by myredvert, Jul 10 2015, 02:34 AM.
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| solerpower | Jul 10 2015, 06:16 AM Post #3 |
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These will help, but it is still not all the information you need. http://metroxfi.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/suzuki_swift_1998-99-00-01.pdf Please check all your interior and engine compartment fuses, and post back the name of the fuse(s) and number. The 1999 FSM will be a lot more informative and give you the diagnostic steps/ procedures. However, the first step is to isolate which system, or systems are having electrical problems. |
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| geogonfa | Jul 10 2015, 08:35 AM Post #4 |
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Just some quick help until you figure where the short is...When the fuse blows you lose power to the shift lock solenoid mounted under the shift lever...to manually release: remove the oval cover near your right knee (has 1 screw holding the cover on), you will feel the lever with your finger, hold forward and you will be able to put the shift lever in gear...
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| chevmet99 | Jul 10 2015, 09:55 AM Post #5 |
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Ok, some more info--- The fuse according to my owners manual is #10, It's a 15-amp fuse that is used for Back-up lamps and indicator (turning signal) lights. I have trouble codes p0705, p0455, and p0420. From what Indrive tells me, these are for: "Transmission Range Sensor ""A"" Circuit (PRNDL Input)" ; EVAP System Leak Detected (large leak) ; Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. I do have a factory repair manual for my car, and I've been looking at the electrical diagrams, but I'm honestly lost. I can shift out of park into the other gears, but it gives resistance. It can be moved, but not as easy as it used to. When I hit the gas, it takes a few seconds for the car to actually start moving, and it takes a while for it to switch from one gear to the next when accelerating. Also, I'm in Grove City. Edited by chevmet99, Jul 10 2015, 09:58 AM.
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| myredvert | Jul 10 2015, 10:12 AM Post #6 |
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myredvert
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The Transaxle Range Switch (TRS) is also powered by the BACK fuse, but it also has 6 circuits that run to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), so this is definitely not one of those areas where you want to be poking around at wires and connectors using a YouTube video for guidance vs. following the FSM diagnostic instructions exactly. When you say "factory repair manual" do you mean a real one or some other aftermarket brand "repair manual (not factory)?" The reason I ask is because the names you gave for the codes are more generic in nature and not actual Metro DTC names from the Factory Service Manual. If you aren't comfortable following the factory wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures for your TRS issue you may not want to go poking around in that area. You might want to consider replacing the part and hoping it resolves your fuse blowing problem, or get the car to someone with more electrical system diagnosis experience. You also have some very good people who are forum members very close to you!
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| chevmet99 | Jul 10 2015, 11:27 AM Post #7 |
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Yes, it's the real deal 1999 Metro Service Manual with the GM and Chevrolet logos on the front. It's not Chilton or Haynes DIY. I got the code readings from my Indrive dashboard. There's a little black plug that I have to have in the OBD port for my insurance, and it shows the trouble codes on their website along with the descriptions I gave. I realize that this is probably not something a newbie to electrical or mechanical work should be messing with, but I am determined to fix the problem. I have to get ready for work now, but I looked at the service manual for the lighting system and found some steps to follow to diagnose and fix the problem with the turn signal lights. It will be tomorrow before I can perform them- I need to get a test lamp and some torx screwdrivers, and probably other stuff. It looks like the repair could get pretty in depth. I didn't see anything mentioning the TRS, but the repair manual does say i may need to replace the "inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil". So I guess I'll start on that- probably next week or later. |
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| geogonfa | Jul 10 2015, 11:37 AM Post #8 |
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Just my .02...disconnect the wire connecter at the Transaxle Range Switch , drive and see if any fuses blow...the car can be shifted manually...this is a quick test... |
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| myredvert | Jul 10 2015, 12:30 PM Post #9 |
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myredvert
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![]() If you aren't that experienced with following the diagnostic charts (or even knowing which ones to use) then you may be better off trying this, and if necessary, just throwing some parts at it as opposed to blindly poking around in a system without following the real diagnostic procedures. Once you identify your DTCs, don't use anything but the Factory Information about them.. Most codes also have diagnostic aids which are basic things you can check before having to perform the full diagnostics. Also, if you only do the diagnostic procedure in "bits and pieces," you defeat the purpose of how they are designed to work, so if you do decide to attempt the real diagnostic procedure, do it correctly. ![]() |
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| chevmet99 | Jul 10 2015, 10:28 PM Post #10 |
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So, I need to find the trouble codes in the service manual and follow procedures from there. If anyone else with a service manual doesn't know where these are, I have just found them in the index under "DTC". I was looking in the table of contents. That's where the trouble started. Ok. Now we're cooking with gas. |
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