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Cooling Fan; Not Running
Topic Started: Jul 16 2015, 12:26 PM (723 Views)
batsrule
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I suppose I should have started a new topic here once you guys answered my trans questions. I will attempt to answer the questions from myredvert, and freegeo using the correct terminology, paying more attention to what they are telling me to do. The last post with the image of test light. Yes that is how I had it hooked up. I printed out the electrical diagnosis section freegeo sent me the link to. With locking tab in up position I did not see any numbers on the connector. Connector cavity #2 is wht/blu-=, and connector cavity #4 is blu/red.That is where I put the jumper wires. Fan does not come on. The chart tells me to connect a test light to ground and connector cavity #2. Light does not come on. As to how do I know if I have power to jumper wires? That is where I touched jumper wires to battery and fan comes on. How do I know fan is not working? Started car let warm up(20-25 mins) and fan had not come on and gauge was almost up to hot reading. Shut it off, and can hear anitfreeze boiling in radiator. I have replaced the thermostat, radiator, coolant temp sensor,(the one at thermostat hsng) and fan relay. I did not replace all of these things because of fan issue, car has been sitting for 2 years, and in everything was working at that time. I have moved it around a few times in those 2 years with no issues. I do understand that this must be a big pain in the ass to try and fix something you are not looking at yourself. I always try to find the answers here before I go asking a question that has been asked way too many times already. Thanks again for your time and patience.
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myredvert
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myredvert

Quote:
 
With locking tab in up position I did not see any numbers on the connector.
There are no numbers on them, sorry I didn't make that clearer. In a "two row, 4 terminal" connector (doesn't mater how many wires it has or uses), the #2 is the top right and the #4 the bottom right as you look at the open face. Which can easily get a bit confusing when you are back probing the connector.

Quote:
 
How do I know fan is not working? Started car let warm up(20-25 mins) and fan had not come on and gauge was almost up to hot reading. Shut it off, and can hear anitfreeze boiling in radiator.
That answers that. I had to ask, since that verification is the very first step in the diagnostic procedure before getting into the wiring. :thumb
Edited by myredvert, Jul 16 2015, 12:32 PM.
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freegeo
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Since you verified the white / blue stripe wire doesn't have voltage to the relay. There should be a 30 amp fuse in fuse box #1 for the radiator fan. I don't have a 94 and looking at the FSM it is kinda unclear about where this fuse box is. It appears to be under the dash on the drivers side. See if you can locate this and check the fuse. Also check the fusible links in the relay / fuse box in the engine compartment (where the radiator fan relay was) to make sure none of them has blown.

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Edited by freegeo, Jul 16 2015, 06:01 PM.
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rjsdotorg
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freegeo
Jul 16 2015, 05:54 PM
Since you verified the white / blue stripe wire doesn't have voltage to the relay. There should be a 30 amp fuse in fuse box #1 for the radiator fan. I don't have a 94 and looking at the FSM it is kinda unclear about where this fuse box is. It appears to be under the dash on the drivers side.
Correct - right below the ECM to the left of the column.
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freegeo
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rjsdotorg
Jul 16 2015, 08:16 PM
freegeo
Jul 16 2015, 05:54 PM
Since you verified the white / blue stripe wire doesn't have voltage to the relay. There should be a 30 amp fuse in fuse box #1 for the radiator fan. I don't have a 94 and looking at the FSM it is kinda unclear about where this fuse box is. It appears to be under the dash on the drivers side.
Correct - right below the ECM to the left of the column.
Thank you for the clarification.
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batsrule
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I checked the fuses in both boxes all look good. I found a diagram of the fuse boxes on this site from Jittney a few years back when I first got the car. Ignition system, gauges, Warning Indicator lights, radiator fan motor automatic transaxle speed sensor 20 amp fuse. It looked ok but I put a new one in anyway.
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freegeo
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batsrule
Jul 17 2015, 06:35 AM
I checked the fuses in both boxes all look good. I found a diagram of the fuse boxes on this site from Jittney a few years back when I first got the car. Ignition system, gauges, Warning Indicator lights, radiator fan motor automatic transaxle speed sensor 20 amp fuse. It looked ok but I put a new one in anyway.
Did you check the fusible links in the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment? It should be a 50 amp fuse.

Edited by freegeo, Jul 17 2015, 07:34 AM.
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freegeo
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I just went back and checked the wiring diagram. The 50 amp fusible link for the radiator fan fuse also goes to the ignition switch. Since your car starts and runs then the fuse is good.

Ignition system, gauges, Warning Indicator lights, radiator fan motor automatic transaxle speed sensor 20 amp fuse.

The radiator fan fuse should be a 30 amp fuse, double check your fuses again.


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When you find the 30 amp radiator fan fuse see if you have power too it. If you have power to it and none at the relay then your white / blue wire is bad somewhere between the fuse and the relay.
If there is no power to the fuse then the white green wire is bad somewhere between the blue arrows in the picture.

Good luck with it and hope you find it . Let us know.
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batsrule
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I didn't think I would get it right. If you look at the post fuse boxes :/ from benbren my post is there. Sorry.
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freegeo
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batsrule
Jul 17 2015, 12:49 PM
I didn't think I would get it right. If you look at the post fuse boxes :/ from benbren my post is there. Sorry.
I'll see if i can find it.
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freegeo
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Left a post on the other thread.
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