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Distributor ground wire melted at clip in middle of wire; What caused it to get hot ??
Topic Started: Aug 1 2015, 10:55 PM (2,556 Views)
toms95geometrolsi
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myredvert
Aug 8 2015, 08:14 PM
Cool. It normally goes on one of the bolts at the distributor base to the engine block. Is that wire still getting hot?
No , when I found the loose ground cleaned it up and tightened it, it was not getting hot any longer. But it's running worse than ever. Can I remove the oxygen sensor to check for plugged exhust without danger of breaking something?
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toms95geometrolsi
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I screwed up. Did a rapid charge on my battery. And after that ( last night ) it wont start . Over night the dater drained to almost 0. I read up on it in the FSM and it says I may have burned out the diodes. Where are they. And how do I replace them. Help..
Edited by toms95geometrolsi, Aug 9 2015, 02:28 PM.
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toms95geometrolsi
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Gee whiz. This thing is going to drive me crazy. Last night the car wouldn't start and I thought I burned out the diodes. But I put it back on slow charge this morning. It charged up to 57% really fast ( in about an hour ) and once it got to 57% it wouldn't go any furhter . So I tried starting it up and as expected it turned over real slow but did start. The lights and heater fan still work so the diodes are ok after all. I shut it off after checking the coolant lines to the TB. they were the same temp as the heater hoses. So that's not plugged. Half hour later the battery is dead again so I will replace the battery. And get a compression tester so I can check the compression. The engine before the battery died, was idling real slow and any extra fuel would make it try to stall. Any advice.
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freegeo
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Get your charging system working right first if you haven't already, Mine just when the belt slips and the alternator is not working to full capacity will make my engine performance go down noticeably.
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toms95geometrolsi
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freegeo
Aug 9 2015, 04:18 PM
Get your charging system working right first if you haven't already, Mine just when the belt slips and the alternator is not working to full capacity will make my engine performance go down noticeably.
Got the new battery in and it didn't change the problem but it's holding a charge.both over night and while running. . Can anyone point out to me how I check the altenator out put. Also got the compression test done. Dry readings were 120-120-115-115... wet reading were 180-173-173-165...so I'd guess I should adjust the valves. Any ideas.
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freegeo
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toms95geometrolsi
Aug 22 2015, 09:44 PM
freegeo
Aug 9 2015, 04:18 PM
Get your charging system working right first if you haven't already, Mine just when the belt slips and the alternator is not working to full capacity will make my engine performance go down noticeably.
Got the new battery in and it didn't change the problem but it's holding a charge.both over night and while running. . Can anyone point out to me how I check the altenator out put. Also got the compression test done. Dry readings were 120-120-115-115... wet reading were 180-173-173-165...so I'd guess I should adjust the valves. Any ideas.
If the wet readings go up compared to the dry readings then that indicates your rings are worn.

If you have a volt meter you can check the voltage across the battery posts. It should be 12.5 volts or higher. With the engine running and all accessories turned off you should have 14.0 to 14.5 volts across the battery posts.
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sphenicie


first things first. don't go changing things randomly. analyze things, in order and define a problem before making changes which can cloud the waters even more.

this has been a bit tuff to follow.

the bad battery, could be telling you something. (or it could be just that, a bad battery) how old was the battery?

what is the voltage at the battery, with the engine running? does it change if you turn on the lights? this is how to check the alt. as previously stated, you should have about 14 vdc at the battery with the engine running. it should hold under a load, or drop slightly, but never below 12.5 vdc if so your alt may be starting to get weak. most often alternators just crap out all together, but.....

and back to this coil wire. if you have a bad coil wire, or a melted coil wire there is a reason. and if the coil is shot your car will run like crap. if your coil is not properly grounded, your car will run like crap.

if your alt is not providing the proper system voltage, your car will run like crap. it will be better with the new battery, but the battery will be drawn down, and your car will run like crap.

so...address the issues in order, first, because it is not objective, what is the voltage at the battery with the engine running?

next, lets establish what wire is/was melted, and why.




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myredvert
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myredvert

Quote:
 
Also got the compression test done. Dry readings were 120-120-115-115... wet reading were 180-173-173-165...so I'd guess I should adjust the valves. Any ideas.
First thing I would suggest is that you review the compression test procedure in the Factory Service Manual to verify you did the test correctly. If it was done correctly, then you have compression values well below the minimum spec, and as freegeo said those results indicate the rings and probably cylinders are significantly worn and out of tolerances.

(link>>) Geo Metro Forum → The Garage → Factory Repair Manuals/Wiring Diagrams → 1994 library

Compression test in Section 6, Engine General Information and Mechanical Diagnosis, page 6

Before checking your charging output, disconnect, clean, brighten, and reinstall your battery terminals and the grounds from the battery to the left inner fender and the top of the transaxle.

[edit] And listen carefully to what Sphenicie said about not doing things randomly and bouncing around from one thing to the next. :thumb
Edited by myredvert, Aug 23 2015, 04:48 AM.
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sphenicie


now that it is light and the rain stopped, I went out to verify, and yes, the distributor ground on my 95 does in fact have a spade connection about 1/2 way through its length. it is connected to the distributor 'armature' and the block at the thermostat housing.

without knowing more, I would guess that the crimped connection, may have gotten weak or fayed and therefore resistance went up. this equates to heat.

if this is what melted on yours, it must be replaced.

you do not need the spade connection, you do need a good clean connection on both ends. be careful to crimp the ends with the proper size parts.
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myredvert
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myredvert

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The battery reads at 12.44 with engine off and 12.32 to 12.38 when running but that's with the head lights on dim. They are always on if the engine is running.
This looks like one major problem you seem to be ignoring. With the car running you are looking at battery voltage while the charging system is doing nothing.

Just a guess, but based on your comments about your daytime running lights being on and pulling fuses to check voltage that you possibly believe your charging voltage might be ok because your DRLs are on? But it isn't.

Your voltage at the battery with the car running and the headlights on (even on bright) should still normally be over 14 volts. The Factory Service Manual specifies the voltage should never be less than 13.5 volts (no load). Headlights (even on bright) normally should not drop your voltage more than a few tenths - so a normal system should still be at or even above 14 volts even with the headlights on. Your charging system does not appear to be working anywhere close to normally.

As Sphenicie already said, if your charging system is not working, your car will run like crap. There is only so much the computer can do to adjust the pulse width of the injector for low voltage, then at some point.....

Your car will run like crap. It may also ruin your new battery in short order. As bad as you have described your car running, if you continue to drive it without addressing any problem in the charging and electrical system you could very well find yourself with a completely undriveable car sometime very soon.

You should consider staying focused, listen to the advice you have been given, and start addressing and resolving the problems in the electrical system (alternator output, melted ground wires, etc.) first before doing things like taking the timing cover off to check timing gear alignment or changing a water pump that I believe you said was just changed a few months ago?? :dunno

And since you mentioned having received some type of contact information for anyone who may have more experience than you and who may be able to look at your car for you, I would strongly suggest you use it. Meaning make a phone call or send an email or use whatever means you have available to try to get some experienced help. Soon.

Just my suggestion. Good luck! :cheers
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toms95geometrolsi
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sphenicie
Aug 23 2015, 04:39 AM
first things first. don't go changing things randomly. analyze things, in order and define a problem before making changes which can cloud the waters even more.

this has been a bit tuff to follow.

the bad battery, could be telling you something. (or it could be just that, a bad battery) how old was the battery?

what is the voltage at the battery, with the engine running? does it change if you turn on the lights? this is how to check the alt. as previously stated, you should have about 14 vdc at the battery with the engine running. it should hold under a load, or drop slightly, but never below 12.5 vdc if so your alt may be starting to get weak. most often alternators just crap out all together, but.....

and back to this coil wire. if you have a bad coil wire, or a melted coil wire there is a reason. and if the coil is shot your car will run like crap. if your coil is not properly grounded, your car will run like crap.

if your alt is not providing the proper system voltage, your car will run like crap. it will be better with the new battery, but the battery will be drawn down, and your car will run like crap.

so...address the issues in order, first, because it is not objective, what is the voltage at the battery with the engine running?

next, lets establish what wire is/was melted, and why.




OK ALL STOP on this end. First things first. The battery was new when I bought the car in 08 so it was old really old ,7 years . So my next step is to pull the altenator and have it checked.because even with the car running the the voltage at the battery terminals was only 12.24

The wire that melted was addressed it was caused by a loose ground. So I will cut out the melted spade clip and replace.
All the grounds have been cleaned.
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toms95geometrolsi
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Up date got the altenator out and had it bench tested, they told me it sounded a little noisy but tested ok
Got the printed readout. But while I was under the car talking to Geo Glen I saw a nipple for a vacuum line that had no hose on it. It's located on the firewall side of the intake manifold. There are two vacuum lines right next to each other. They are the small rubber hoses. The one on the passenger side goes to the sensor that controls the evap Canister. The one just to the left or drivers side. Is missing and there is no other nipple that I see that is missing a hose. ..can someone please tell me where that hose is supposed to go??? Thanks for the help. Toms95
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Woodie
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I think it just gets a rubber cap on it.
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

That vac hose on my '96s goes to the bottom of the EGR rig.
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freegeo
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toms95geometrolsi
Aug 28 2015, 04:41 AM
Up date got the altenator out and had it bench tested, they told me it sounded a little noisy but tested ok
Got the printed readout. But while I was under the car talking to Geo Glen I saw a nipple for a vacuum line that had no hose on it. It's located on the firewall side of the intake manifold. There are two vacuum lines right next to each other. They are the small rubber hoses. The one on the passenger side goes to the sensor that controls the evap Canister. The one just to the left or drivers side. Is missing and there is no other nipple that I see that is missing a hose. ..can someone please tell me where that hose is supposed to go??? Thanks for the help. Toms95
Can you post a picture of it?
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