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| cant slam on the breaks; wont stop on a dime | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 6 2015, 11:08 AM (730 Views) | |
| ice | Aug 6 2015, 11:08 AM Post #1 |
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alex smiles
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Hello all It's a 1993 geo metro 4 door automatic. When I drive the car the front breaks seem to cost to a stop. I have slam on the breaks an they won't lock or seem to grab the disk as hard as they should. thank you in advance |
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| GeoStalker | Aug 6 2015, 11:18 AM Post #2 |
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."
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Have you checked the brake fluid level? Do you have a break in the line somewhere? You have what sounds like air in the lines somewhere. |
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| snowfish | Aug 6 2015, 11:51 AM Post #3 |
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Basic GearHead
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Air in the lines, semi corrupt brake lines, frozen calipers, etc are definitely big players. But.............If your rotors look like this, ![]() And you have the cheapest pads possible, that's a big problem, as well. Let's pretend all other brake components are good. But the rotors look like above. You'll be amazed at what new rotors, and pads edge code FF or better, will do for the stopping power.
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| bikeAmusPrime | Aug 6 2015, 01:19 PM Post #4 |
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Like the booster and the master cylinder are starting to go out? I've been shopping around for a better replacement so I can run bigger disc brakes on the front and put my gt disc's on the rear |
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| ice | Aug 6 2015, 02:00 PM Post #5 |
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alex smiles
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Hi snowfish an all., I haven't had any leaks in the drive way.I just brought the car 3weeks ago. An have not notice any leaks or spots. The break fluid is toped off. I will check the break lines on Saturday. Is there a" how to " on bleeding the breaks? |
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| snowfish | Aug 6 2015, 02:40 PM Post #6 |
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Basic GearHead
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If your peddle is soft, then bleeding the brakes may be in order. There is really not a how to on this forum that I'm aware of. You need to find someone that knows "how to" to give you a hand. If it comes to that. I'm still going with rotors and pads. Good pads. Edge code FF or better. Geo owners are notorious for installing the cheapest, cheapest possible parts. And then they wonder why stuff doesn't work right.
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| myredvert | Aug 6 2015, 03:48 PM Post #7 |
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myredvert
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Except there may actually be a really good "how to..." on the forum... ![]() (treasure map>>) Geo Metro Forum → The Garage → Factory Repair Manuals/Wiring Diagrams → 1994 library Go to Section 5, General Brakes. Page 10. ![]() |
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| bikeAmusPrime | Aug 6 2015, 04:44 PM Post #8 |
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You are right. Plus the rotors and pads seem to glaze over fast. Small rotors means more heat. Larger rotors for the same car will have less heat, less friction = cooler temps. high quality pads and new rotors should make that thing skid. |
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| Old Man | Aug 6 2015, 04:46 PM Post #9 |
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Here is some "how to" reading for you: https://www.google.com/#q=geometroforum+bleed+brakes |
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| Cardinal Grammeter | Aug 7 2015, 04:01 PM Post #10 |
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I have the same problem with mine. Feels like inadequate line pressure. I have new rotors and pads. Don't know what FF code means. I think the pads are ceramic because when I picked them (RockAuto), I was concerned they would excessively wear the rotors. But my engine has NO compression 125, 125, 85 so I suspect there is low vacuum available for the booster. I suspect this is the problem. If I really bull into the brakes, I can lock the front up - but it is like driving a disc brake car w/o a power booster - something I've done with Dunlops on Studebakers. Edited by Cardinal Grammeter, Aug 7 2015, 04:02 PM.
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


thank you in advance





But the rotors look like above.
If it comes to that.
Geo owners are notorious for installing the cheapest, cheapest possible parts. And then they wonder why stuff doesn't work right.
Except there may actually be a really good "how to..." on the forum... 
9:49 AM Jul 11