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electrical system short
Topic Started: Aug 12 2015, 06:52 PM (772 Views)
zuks4me
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Hello, I own a 1992 Geo Metro 5 door hatchback with an automatic. Recently I noticed that the "battery" idiot light was flickering slightly but, nothing else seemed awry. I knew however, that i would have to keep an eye on things in the days to come. The following day... nothing at all. Not even the dim flickering of the idiot light. On the third day, it died in the parking lot of a nearby store. It seemed that the battery or the alternstor were the culprits because it was too weak to crank more than a couple of times. I jumped it & as I pulled out of the lot, I turned my lights on to help pull some more juice through the battery & about stalled the engine. This made me think... alternator! Luckily I have an extra but, wanted to be sure before I went through the work of switching it out. So, pulled out the old Haynes repair manual & started diagnosing. Well, when I got to the point of testing the ground... bingo. With the ignition off & the terminal separated from the post, I still had current to light a test light. So, started pulling fuses in the main fuse block, trying to narrow it down & #7, the Junction Box (40 amp) fuse, eliminated the power going to the test light. I looked through every wiring diagram in the manual & I can't find a 40 amp fuse attached to a junction box or block. Now what? I don't even know what the junction box is. However, after reading other postings, I now gather it must reference the interior fuse panel.
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geogonfa
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Just my .02...haynes manuals are highly inaccurate...suggest you pick up one of these for future references...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Geo-Metro-Service-Manual-ST370-92-/181826788091?hash=item2a55b89afb&vxp=mtr
for now you can go here....https://sites.google.com/site/suzukiswiftinfo/ :type


And welcome to the Fun... :greet
Edited by geogonfa, Aug 12 2015, 08:56 PM.
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zuks4me
Fresh Fish
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Thank you. I will try to get on that asap, that looks like an awesome reference tool. This isn't my first rodeo with a Suzuki. I have had an 88 1/2, hard top Samurai, two Trackers & three metros before this one. My best backwoods repair was an engine swap into my 89' Metro using a tree limb as a cherry picker. :)
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freegeo
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zuks4me
Aug 12 2015, 06:52 PM
Hello, I own a 1992 Geo Metro 5 door hatchback with an automatic. Recently I noticed that the "battery" idiot light was flickering slightly but, nothing else seemed awry. I knew however, that i would have to keep an eye on things in the days to come. The following day... nothing at all. Not even the dim flickering of the idiot light. On the third day, it died in the parking lot of a nearby store. It seemed that the battery or the alternstor were the culprits because it was too weak to crank more than a couple of times. I jumped it & as I pulled out of the lot, I turned my lights on to help pull some more juice through the battery & about stalled the engine. This made me think... alternator! Luckily I have an extra but, wanted to be sure before I went through the work of switching it out. So, pulled out the old Haynes repair manual & started diagnosing. Well, when I got to the point of testing the ground... bingo. With the ignition off & the terminal separated from the post, I still had current to light a test light. So, started pulling fuses in the main fuse block, trying to narrow it down & #7, the Junction Box (40 amp) fuse, eliminated the power going to the test light. I looked through every wiring diagram in the manual & I can't find a 40 amp fuse attached to a junction box or block. Now what? I don't even know what the junction box is. However, after reading other postings, I now gather it must reference the interior fuse panel.
Is this the 40 amp. fuse (blue arrow) you are talking about you pulled and the light went out on your tester?

Posted Image

That 40 amp fuse powers the tail fuse, stop fuse, LH and RH headlight fuse, and hazard fuse in the juncton block under the dash.

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You can leave the 40 amp fuse in and then pull one fuse at a time in the junction block that is powered by the 40 amp fuse and see what makes the light go out on your tester. Then investigate that circuit. The test light staying on shows you have a draw on the battery with the ignition switch off. That will tend top drain your battery while the engine is off. That won't have anything to do with the battery light flickering.

Clean you battery post and connections really good. Check the battery voltage with the key off and engine off. It should be around 12.5 volts. Check the battery voltage with the engine running, it should be between 14.0 to 14.5 volts with no accessories turn on.



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