Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Main fuse blown; Novice, no real mechanical knowledge
Topic Started: Aug 18 2015, 02:34 PM (1,128 Views)
ecbiv
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
I would like to preface this by stating I am not a mechanic, nor do I have anything further than basic car maintenance and repair skills. Also this is my first post and would really appreciate any and all feedback!

I purchased a used 1990 Geo Metro LSI 2 door hatch back. Ran well on test drive, no issues. I started my drive back home (around 200 mi.) and it was relatively smooth sailing. Having never driven a metro I was unsure abt the relatively little getty up it had, slow acceleration in 4th/5th gears around 45-65 mph. To me it seemed unusually slow.

I made it close to 100 mi and the engine began sputtering on inclines, that's the best way i can explain it. The headlights cut out, then the dashboard lights cut out, then the engine cut out. All in succession of around 1 min time, all within around 15 sec of each other. I pulled over we received help from a man who towed me to a gas station. Their we attempted to jump several times and could not get the engine to crank, however the lights etc would come on. we then noticed a wire was wedged under the hot connector on the battery, looked to be some jerry-rig. We removed this and upon our next attempt at jumping we heard a pop and subsequently no electronics worked, no power, no anything.

We then realized the main fuse 60 amp had blown. A friendly truck driver and self proclaimed "mechanic" came over to help. He immediately brought some basic tools and tightened the connectors on our battery, the hot and ground. made sure they were secure. then tested the battery. It had plenty of juice. This was at 3:00 o'clock in the morning so no auto parts stores were open. He rigged a steel pin with copper wire on either side of the main 60 amp fuse and the car started fine, we test drove a little and everything seemed ok.

We began home and not 15 miles down the road I lost all power again this time all at once. Me and my friend who was tailing me decided we could not do anything else so we drove home and left the car on the side of the road. This was last night. We plan on getting a trailer tomorrow to retrieve it.

Here are my questions?

1. Could the initial loss of power be due to the loose/weak connections to the battery?

2. Could we buy a new 60 amp fuse and replace it, safely and expect the car to run fine?

3. What other problems should I look for in my new purchase?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ecbiv
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
Also If you guys could answer a few more basic questions that would be incredibly helpful.

Do Metros of this model shake a little more than most manual transmission models of this time period?

could the sputtering up hills be a signal of another problem other than weak battery connection?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Johnny Mullet
Member Avatar
Fear the Mullet

Get the car home and get it running. Then perform a compression test on all the cylinders. This will determine engine health. This will eliminate one problem and a decision to tackle the electronic issues.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


ecbiv
Aug 18 2015, 02:34 PM
I would like to preface this by stating I am not a mechanic, nor do I have anything further than basic car maintenance and repair skills. Also this is my first post and would really appreciate any and all feedback!

I purchased a used 1990 Geo Metro LSI 2 door hatch back. Ran well on test drive, no issues. I started my drive back home (around 200 mi.) and it was relatively smooth sailing. Having never driven a metro I was unsure abt the relatively little getty up it had, slow acceleration in 4th/5th gears around 45-65 mph. To me it seemed unusually slow.

I made it close to 100 mi and the engine began sputtering on inclines, that's the best way i can explain it. The headlights cut out, then the dashboard lights cut out, then the engine cut out. All in succession of around 1 min time, all within around 15 sec of each other. I pulled over we received help from a man who towed me to a gas station. Their we attempted to jump several times and could not get the engine to crank, however the lights etc would come on. we then noticed a wire was wedged under the hot connector on the battery, looked to be some jerry-rig. We removed this and upon our next attempt at jumping we heard a pop and subsequently no electronics worked, no power, no anything.

We then realized the main fuse 60 amp had blown. A friendly truck driver and self proclaimed "mechanic" came over to help. He immediately brought some basic tools and tightened the connectors on our battery, the hot and ground. made sure they were secure. then tested the battery. It had plenty of juice. This was at 3:00 o'clock in the morning so no auto parts stores were open. He rigged a steel pin with copper wire on either side of the main 60 amp fuse and the car started fine, we test drove a little and everything seemed ok.

We began home and not 15 miles down the road I lost all power again this time all at once. Me and my friend who was tailing me decided we could not do anything else so we drove home and left the car on the side of the road. This was last night. We plan on getting a trailer tomorrow to retrieve it.

Here are my questions?

1. Could the initial loss of power be due to the loose/weak connections to the battery?

2. Could we buy a new 60 amp fuse and replace it, safely and expect the car to run fine?

3. What other problems should I look for in my new purchase?
Quote:
 
Could we buy a new 60 amp fuse and replace it, safely and expect the car to run fine?


The 60 amp fuse needs put back in. I would also check the bottom of the fuse / relay box to make sure there is no corrosion. The 60 amp fusible link protects the wiring from the alternator to the 60 amp fusible link. Make sure your connections on the alternator and battery including the ground are clean and tight. The battery and alternator should be checked to make sure it is working properly.

Posted Image

Quote:
 
Do Metros of this model shake a little more than most manual transmission models of this time period?


Do you mean the engine or the car itself?

Quote:
 
could the sputtering up hills be a signal of another problem other than weak battery connection?


As Johnny stated you should do a compression test to see what condition your engine is in. If you need the procedure for the compression test we can provided a link for it.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Stiffchezze
Member Avatar
Sir Metrologist

Start off by getting your battery connections tight and clean.
You know, Tuscaloosa is only about 45 min. down the road from Helena....... Just saying. :cheers
RTR!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
MR Bill
Member Avatar


Stiffchezze
Aug 19 2015, 02:26 AM
Start off by getting your battery connections tight and clean.
You know, Tuscaloosa is only about 45 min. down the road from Helena....... Just saying. :cheers
RTR!
:gp Maybe Stifchezze on a rescue run?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
terry8750
terry8750

check your alternator lead and clean your terminals.something is grounding out.i popped mine once but not due to grounding out.it was my stereo that caused it .apparently its not designed for 4000watt subwoofer amp and a cs130.who whoulda guessing lol.my point is it usually take a large load like a positive lead grounding out to pop these
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Electrical Systems · Next Topic »
Add Reply