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| '91 Metro Convertible Project.; Project build to get the 91 back on the road. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 3 2015, 09:28 PM (2,025 Views) | |
| Memphis metro | Oct 11 2015, 08:26 PM Post #16 |
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The spare engine is a 92. Have no idea about the blown engine. Have a picture of the broken bolt? Drill and ease out. There are two timing belts. A flat cogged one and a round cogged one. |
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| KACalpito | Oct 12 2015, 03:13 AM Post #17 |
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New Member
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Here's the 2 different cogs for the timing belt. "Good Engine" ![]() "Bad Engine" ![]() Would there be any issues using the valve cover from the "bad Engine" on the good engine?... the only reason I'm asking is because the top piece with the alignment mark is broken off. |
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| KACalpito | Oct 12 2015, 04:54 AM Post #18 |
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New Member
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Here's the picture of the stuck bolt, I have a basic tool set, what would be the easiest way to get it out?
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| Woodie | Oct 12 2015, 05:07 AM Post #19 |
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Go get a good quality pair of Vice-Grips (preferably ones that actually say the words Vice-Grip on them), some Kroil or PBlaster, and a propane torch. Put the penetrating oil on there a couple of times over a couple of days. Heat up the metal around the bolt with the torch, clamp the Vice-Grips on there as tightly as you can and turn anti-clockwise. You might need to remove that axle to get better access. |
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| Memphis metro | Oct 12 2015, 05:10 AM Post #20 |
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Have you tried vise grips on the broken bolt? Sometimes you can clamp them on and then take a pipe wrench and tighten them up a little tighter and they will hold good enough to remove some bolts. Really depends on how tight the bolt is. Use flat jaw vise grips instead of the curved jawed ones. The top picture is a flat timing belt from earlier model engines and the later is the rounded timing belt from later model engines. As to the broken bolt, you probably could get by leaving as it is and the other bolts would likely secure the transmission well enough you would not have any problems but it would indeed be best to have it removed and fixed. Another thing you could do if the broken bolt sticks thru the bell housing enough is thread the end of the bolt and put a nut on it. That could be used as well to remove the broken bolt, run two nuts on the bolt and then jam both nuts together then turn the inner nut to remove the stud. |
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| myredvert | Oct 12 2015, 07:30 AM Post #21 |
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myredvert
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I believe you need to use the distributor from the engine in the car, the spare is a 92 as Memphis Metro said, and the distributors changed that year from vacuum and mechanical advance in 91 to electronic advance in 92. It's likely the engine in the car was a replacement that was bought "new" from GM as opposed to being taken from another vehicle - whcih would explain the lack of a serial number in the normal location. It also looks like they then used used parts and pieces from later years such as the cam sprocket (and probably the crank gear to match) to piece something together. You should take your time and before you dive in and gather a thorough list of exactly what parts you need in order to configure everything correctly as a 91. I don't think the camshaft cover matters. It's always nice to start the day reading a bit of the Queen's English.
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| davegran | Oct 13 2015, 07:27 AM Post #22 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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Some guys have had good results by welding a nut on the end of the bolt and then turning it out. It seems that the heat from the welding breaks the rust bond. When you start with vise grips, you could end up just chewing up the end of the bolt without budging it; then you don't have any place to grab onto any more. If you don't have a welder or know anybody with one, at least get a propane or Mapp Gas torch and heat everything up as suggested. Drilling it out is the last, painful option....
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| Memphis metro | Oct 13 2015, 09:43 AM Post #23 |
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I forgot about welding a nut on it. Have to be careful not to set your car on fire though. Not everyone has a welder available though. I do this all the time with wheel studs on large trucks. You also have to be careful with alluminum when using heat. Not as forgiving as steel. That is true about boogering it up with the vise grips. That happens more than it works. Really depends on how tight the bolt is. Sometimes it works and sometimes it makes a mess. Good vise grips and really tight is about as safe as you can be with grips.
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| KACalpito | Nov 5 2015, 08:49 AM Post #24 |
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New Member
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So, a month later I still haven't had much time to get the bolt out or even mess with it. So far the parts list that I'll have to get first to get the car up and running are the Clutch Alignment tool and a timing belt for a 92 motor. Also, anyone have the latches for the convertible top? |
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| MR Bill | Nov 5 2015, 11:34 AM Post #25 |
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Is that bolt welded in? Something just looks funny. MY 2cents |
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| 1DCGUY | Nov 5 2015, 12:15 PM Post #26 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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I was wondering the same thing, if this is the bolt on the rear of the tranny, it does not come out. There is a nut that goes on it instead. I just can't be sure, because of the angel of the picture.
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| Metromightymouse | Nov 5 2015, 01:42 PM Post #27 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Here is a Geo Metro Angel (according to a Google image search), is this the one that is preventing you from seeing it? Steel stud and aluminum case, welding it in would be very difficult, but something could have been done to make it extremely difficult to remove. Edited by Metromightymouse, Nov 5 2015, 01:42 PM.
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| 1DCGUY | Nov 5 2015, 02:06 PM Post #28 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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I like the angle of that angle!! LOL!! |
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| Metromightymouse | Nov 5 2015, 02:16 PM Post #29 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Was that intentional or did you mean angle of that angel? |
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| 1DCGUY | Nov 5 2015, 04:51 PM Post #30 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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With my typing skills, I never really know!! LOL
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I forgot about welding a nut on it. Have to be careful not to set your car on fire though. Not everyone has a welder available though. I do this all the time with wheel studs on large trucks. You also have to be careful with alluminum when using heat. Not as forgiving as steel. That is true about boogering it up with the vise grips. That happens more than it works. Really depends on how tight the bolt is. Sometimes it works and sometimes it makes a mess. Good vise grips and really tight is about as safe as you can be with grips.

7:23 PM Jul 10