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| 3200 Watt system help | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 8 2015, 05:17 PM (1,346 Views) | |
| xterminat0r | Dec 8 2015, 05:17 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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I'm adding a 3200 watt amp into my 2000 chevy metro lsi 1.3L 4 cyl car. Do I have to upgrade the battery and alternator or can I keep them stock? Also where would I find a larger alternator for this car if I need one? |
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| terry8750 | Dec 8 2015, 05:58 PM Post #2 |
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terry8750
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cs 130 from a junk yard is a popular swap. bracket and wiring is 45 bucks plus 20 for the alternator.what kind of amp is it.like brand and series |
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| evmetro | Dec 8 2015, 08:50 PM Post #3 |
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You may want to find out how many watts the amp really is before investing in a charging system upgrade. The amp may say 3200 watts on it, but odds are that the number printed on the amp is the number that they use to market it, when the real number is only a fraction of that. There are "3000 watt+" amps that are compatible with our 700 watt alternators. All you really need is an alternator that keeps up with the average demand, not peak demand. |
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| t3ragtop | Dec 8 2015, 09:12 PM Post #4 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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3200 watts ils (if lightning strikes) is usually more like 230 watts rms with about 20% total harmonic distortion at full power. ![]() i'm a fan of the cs130 alternator swap. i can buy new cs130 alternators for $65 with no core. i can find that delco alternator anywhere in the country on short notice. but the most important thing is that i feel that the stock 55 amp alternators aren't sufficient for the kind of winter weather we have in the midwest. in the winter i commute in the dark both ways with the heater cranked up on high, the windshield wipers and lights on. headlights are about 14 amps. the wipers are about 10 amps. the heater blower is about 20 amps. that leaves 11 amps for the ignition, fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ecu. that's too slim of a margin for me. the last thing i want is to be broken down on the side of the road when it's 20 degrees and snowing.
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| xterminat0r | Dec 8 2015, 11:31 PM Post #5 |
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Fresh Fish
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Heres the amp I was looking to purchase. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OULUXY?colid=1B808XDHNR2JR&coliid=I3CAHRYZ69UOYA&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl |
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| banginmetro64 | Dec 14 2015, 10:37 AM Post #6 |
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that amp is a hunk of shit. not worth the money IMO. |
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| bikeAmusPrime | Jan 27 2016, 07:00 AM Post #7 |
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A cs130 and a good battery. Good clean connections with a 100 amp fuse. |
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| z34-5speed | Jan 27 2016, 07:12 AM Post #8 |
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Formerly "Tech Certified"
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Stay FAR FAR FAR FAR FAR away from that amp. What are you wanting an amp for? Single sub? That amp isn't even capable of properly pushing a single sub, much less 4 speakers AND a sub. Here is a solid starter amp for a budget build, and it's even cheaper than the one you posted. This one "should" deliver at least 6-800rms IF you can deliver enough power to it. You'll definitely need a CS130 kit to do this safely and proper gauged wiring. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25313_Planet-Audio-AC4000.1D.html If you're wanting an amp for both your actual speakers AND a sub, you're best bet is it get separate amps for each. I'm a big fan (I own 4) of the Alpine Power Pack "amps". Not a typical Amp in that they are powered through your radio wiring (they go inline BEFORE the radio itself), but they deliver much more power than just a headunit, are super simple to wire in, and don't cost much. There are two different variations: The KTP-445U is a universal one that is a bit trickier to wire in and the KTP-445A is an Alpine specific model. The Alpine specific one is cheaper and easily modifiable to fit any radio. Just cut the plug off the output side and wire in your radio's plug. Simple as a radio install. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-Power-Pack-KTP-445A-180-Watts-4-Channel-Amplifer-Select-Alpine-Headunits-/151876702402?hash=item235c8e90c2:g:du4AAOSwQoFWO~e8 |
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| t3ragtop | Jan 27 2016, 06:28 PM Post #9 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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ditto on the lanzar amp. they make a good auxilliary heater but they suck at reproducing audio. ![]() i used a little clarion 4 channel amp to replace the bose amp in my mercedes that has been doing a great job. a real 50 watts per channel at 4 ohms and rated to make 75 watts into a 2 ohm load. i replaced the door speakers with a set of vintage kove audio 5 1/4" components with 1" silk dome tweeters. those are rated at 4 ohms. i left the rear mounted bose subwoofers in place and those are rated at 2 ohms. the little clarion amp seems perfectly happy driving the mixed load. i picked the clarion amp up at crutchfield and recently i've been looking at a 5 channel soundstream picasso nano amp streamline my red twincam vert's system. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5640D/Soundstream-Picasso-Nano-PN5-640D.html?tp=35808 right now i'm running 2 hart professional 4 channel amps to run 6 channels. i can cut the weight by half and the current requirements by 2/3rds with the nano 5 channel amp. |
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| terry8750 | Jan 28 2016, 10:07 AM Post #10 |
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terry8750
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buy a hifonics most of there amps are cea 2006 certified .means they push pretty close to what they are rated.i had 2 ssl ev4000d monoblockd amps bridged supposed to make 8000 watts max lol like t3 said (If Lighting Strikes)and they made less power than my hifonics brutus brx2400.1d . there are several amp smd dyno videos for hifonics to back up there claims.word of advice if your do better get 1/0 gauge wiring and a good agm battery cause they are power hungry.mine actually drops from 15 volts to 12.4 now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t7Z2T7_LB8 Edited by terry8750, Jan 28 2016, 10:09 AM.
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| arudlang | Jan 28 2016, 11:11 AM Post #11 |
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Andrew
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I will throw my 2 cents in defense of the lanzar brand. No experience with the Vibe series but I have a MaxPro from them which is years and years old but it still works and it produces absolutely devastating kabooms with a couple of their MAXP154D in a large sealed enclosure. Not that I have ever tried to measure the output of that amp to see if I really get the advertised power, but when the subs hit so hard the entire roof of the SUV is flexing two inches and pop cans are bouncing out of the cup holders up front, I don't really care to nick-pick it Depends on what you are going for, I suppose. I was very happy with the MaxPro occasionally cranked way, way down so that I could hear my other speakers and the rest of the music in a 240watt component system I thought it was great in terms of quality but that wasn't really what I was in in for. No, my goal was to simply have the loudest most powerful boom booms on tap at the flip of a switch, purely to blow the ear drums of my rivals. I generally had the gain cranked up to the bleeding edge of what it could provide, with two batteries onboard, and then I simply drove around with it OFF and listened to my 240watt component system happily which bumped decent enough and you could hear all the music. I put a simple flip switch inline on the remote turn on wire, and I would live for the days when I would be sitting at a light or wherever, happily jamming to the component system, and some punk in a clapped out honda would roll up beside me and start bleating his crappy 10 inch subs or a single 12... then I would peg the volume knob and flip the switch ... ![]() If you basically just want to make sound explosions and be the loudest ****head in town on the cheap, there is absolutely nothing wrong with Lanzar's equipment. I've never heard a two 15 system that was louder, certainly never heard any alpines or kenwoods that hit harder, but that is not so much that the name brands can't hit harder as that those owners are buying for some kind of sound quality they believe they can perceive and are always tuned down so that other frequencies from the rest of their speakers can be heard. Different goals altogether. I thought the lanzar sounded very good when I did turn it down, on occasion, but truthfully my eardrums no longer have the ability to perceive the difference between a toned down lanzar and a friend's kenwood. They both produce good vibes The anti-lanzar crowd just gets mad because they spent way more money to be way more quiet. Its ok. You don't have to listen to them trying to explain what allegedly "cleaner" sounding music is from their quadruple-price 800 watt whatever, just crank the gain and enjoy listening to small earthquake. Then, be a gentleman and take their poor girlfriends out for dinner since they spent all their money on 200 dollar a piece subs ![]() But if you aren't primarily trying to be the loudest most obnoxious person on the block and consider yourself some kind of audiophile, buy whatever you think sounds good. I just wanted to stick my nose in here and say there is at least one person in the world who is 100% satisfied with the results of a lanzar system
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| evmetro | Jan 28 2016, 11:41 AM Post #12 |
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I run a bunch of the older jl audio 1000/1 amps in my pick up to run my 4 jl audio 10w7 subs. The seem to deliver a pretty clean sound, and the system hits pretty hard. No complaints on these jl amps. I did cook one and have to send it out, but it was my mistake, not the fault of the amp. (I run "Audio Control" signal processing equipment and mistakenly sent to high of a pre amp signal.) These jl amps are still holding up, and have been in my truck since 2004. Based on my experience, I would recommend these amps. I also run 3 jl 10w1 subs in one of my metros, with a fosgate t1000 bdcp, and am happy with the performance of the bdcp amps. There are plenty more great amps out there, but I thought I would relay my satisfaction with those two sub amps, in case anybody is amp shopping. |
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| z34-5speed | Jan 28 2016, 03:13 PM Post #13 |
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Formerly "Tech Certified"
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Sounds like you got some older stuff that may have been less shitty than their current offerings. Their current stuff is a paperweight. |
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