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Lower control arm/Ball joint
Topic Started: Dec 25 2015, 02:07 PM (1,671 Views)
mt999999
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Self-Declared "Genious"

Hey guys, I've been fighting with the drivers lower control arm for some time now, and I can't seem to get the ball joint to separate. I have all of the other rusty bolts out, and the ball joint is the only thing holding it together. Is there a trick to it that I'm missing? It's driving me crazy... many thanks!
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Hotrodray1
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Over Educated parts guy

Do you have bolt out of spindle. If so you need a tool you can rent from a auto parts store.It is called a pickle fork! It slides between lower control arm and spindle then you strike it with a hammer. You should not have to use a pickle fork on a metro. Once you remove bolt on spindle it will normally separate by prying down on lower control arm.
Edited by Hotrodray1, Dec 25 2015, 02:40 PM.
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solerpower
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Hell with the pickle fork. After the bolt is removed from the inside tap a thick flat head screwdriver into the gap. You won't need to go very far. It should pop right out without use of pry bar. If your in the rust belt you can spray them with PB blaster first, screwdriver, and then pry bar. I own several pickle forks and they tend to damage everything. I would buy the Energy suspension poly red covers. Worth every penny especially for $6 for two. You don't need to put the lock ring back on the the red control arm caps either. You can remove and clean out the old, and put some nice synthetic grease inside the ball joint. I use brake clean first to rinse the ball joint out, and then air spray them dry. You will need to work the grease into the ball joint pressing it in before filling the cap.
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mt999999
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Is it just me, or is this damn thing welded in?! I got the ball joint out, and I had to wiggle and wiggle the lower control arm until the rubber piece pulled out, leaving the metal piece attached :banghead :banghead :banghead

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mt999999
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Hmm... I've almost answered my question with a website that Nerys built. Found it on a Google search!

http://www.mylittlemouse.com/control_arm_repair/index.html

Next question, is there an easier method? :P This can't be how you're expected to do it from the factory... :shake
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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

It's extremely common on these cars, for the "tube" to stay behind once you wrestle the control arm off the spindle.

I think what a lot of people do, which is what I did when I did both of mine, is take an abrasive wheel cut-off tool, and, very carefully - so as not to cut into the actual spindle, cut a slit in the tube running parallel to the shaft. Don't cut all the way through it, just cut into it about half-way. Then take a cold chisel and hammer and whack it. That will split it open so you can pull it off with pliers. Then clean up and lube the shaft before installing your new control arm.
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mt999999
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PTA2PTB
Dec 28 2015, 11:59 AM
It's extremely common on these cars, for the "tube" to stay behind once you wrestle the control arm off the spindle.

I think what a lot of people do, which is what I did when I did both of mine, is take an abrasive wheel cut-off tool, and, very carefully - so as not to cut into the actual spindle, cut a slit in the tube running parallel to the shaft. Don't cut all the way through it, just cut into it about half-way. Then take a cold chisel and hammer and whack it. That will split it open so you can pull it off with pliers. Then clean up and lube the shaft before installing your new control arm.
I've got a tiny cutting wheel, but I'll give it a go! Much better than wrestling the entire spindle off, dig out the propane torch, etc... Thanks!
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solerpower
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I'm confused, what are you trying to do? The best way to remove the bushing is with hydraulic press with two part press plate. It will take four or five pumps on the press handle. The pressed in bushing again is no match for the press. However it is a good idea to wear eye protection. One of the two shot out like a rubber bullet. The control arm itself wiggles right off for me, but the one in the picture looks pretty worn.
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solerpower
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You have to be careful about the aftermarket control arms. Some of them don't have the lip on the ball joint. This will present a problem if you are going with the Energy Suspension ball joint cap.

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Edited by solerpower, Dec 29 2015, 12:30 AM.
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mt999999
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solerpower
Dec 29 2015, 12:13 AM
I'm confused, what are you trying to do? The best way to remove the bushing is with hydraulic press with two part press plate. It will take four or five pumps on the press handle. The pressed in bushing again is no match for the press. However it is a good idea to wear eye protection. One of the two shot out like a rubber bullet. The control arm itself wiggles right off for me, but the one in the picture looks pretty worn.
The metal inside of the front brushing stuck on the spindle; on both sides. I managed to get both of them off with a grinder, and installed the new control arms. I left the stock black rubber boots on, because I couldn't find the orange ones anywhere, and I need my car now. I still have to replace the front struts in the spring, so I'll upgrade the boots then. Do you need the metal spring/tie things for the orange boots?
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solerpower
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That is the thing. If you have the o.e.m control arm absolutely not. If you have an aftermarket control arm and it doesn't have the lip that you can see in the picture above then it might not work.
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mt999999
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solerpower
Dec 29 2015, 10:21 PM
That is the thing. If you have the o.e.m control arm absolutely not. If you have an aftermarket control arm and it doesn't have the lip that you can see in the picture above then it might not work.
Not sure if mine have the lip or not, I didn't check. I don't know if you can tell from the picture in the listing. Here is a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130988585808?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D130988585808%26_rdc%3D1

I'll post finished shots of my control arms here in a bit.
Edited by mt999999, Dec 30 2015, 09:35 PM.
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solerpower
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I imagine they have to have something for the spring clip to sit in. However I read on here about the aftermarket ones not having the lip. I can't tell from the picture. It comes with the boot on it. You can get if off an check without f-ing up the boot, but be careful. I honestly would just leave it for now alone, and figure it out when the boot caps get torn.
Edited by solerpower, Dec 31 2015, 12:21 PM.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

The Energy Boots will fit, and work, on any Metro control arm. :thumb The knuckle is what holds the boot on. ^o)

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Put on the Energy boot. :gamerz You won't be disappointed. ;)

This thread has some control arm wrestling and more. :news

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http://geometroforum.com/topic/5469296/1/

:cheers
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mt999999
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Wowza, Snowfish! :O

That's a monster angle grinder... you should have seen my tiny cut-off wheel... it is about an inch and a half in total diameter, and the rotary Dremel tool its self is smaller around than my fist... :lol
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