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| Excessive inside wear on rear passenger tire what am I looking at?; 1992 Geo Metro | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 30 2015, 11:16 PM (676 Views) | |
| Richard123vmt | Dec 30 2015, 11:16 PM Post #1 |
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The inside was worn well down to the belt and beyond, I changed it immediately. Now it is my sub-standard spare (one of them). I found no bearing play or looseness, although I did not use a bar. I believe that the camber is not adjustable. So what is my problem? I don't see anything broken. Could it be the toe-out? I have nothing to lose from changing the alignment since it was the shittiest alignment ever to come down the pike, and at that only on the front end. It was so bad the guiy gave my back my money except $20. The front tires wear okay but the handling stinks (sucks.) This rear camber condition has existed as long as I owned the car, five years or so. I have noticed it sometimes doesn't take a certain bump quite well. But if the shock is shot it should not change the chamber. I am a complete stranger to the rear axles. Edited by Richard123vmt, Dec 30 2015, 11:19 PM.
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| Old Man | Dec 30 2015, 11:46 PM Post #2 |
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first, check your rear control rod on that side and see if it is bent. People have a tendency to tie on to the easiest spot to pull a Metro out of a ditch and it bends that control rod, throwing the alignment out of kilter. Next get a well alignment done. I have found that a "zero" toe is the best. Edited by Old Man, Dec 31 2015, 01:46 AM.
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| Silver2K | Dec 31 2015, 12:22 AM Post #3 |
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I had outer wear on my driver side rear tire for years (6-7 years). Even after getting the car aligned at least twice. After much Googling I concluded it was toe. So I jury rigged a set up to check my rear alignment. And I found about 4mm of toe. Corrected it. No more tire wear. So even if you take the car to get aligned, they may not necessarily align the back correctly. There are a couple of reasons for this: laziness, incompetence, bad documentation. Don't know what the reason is. It is just one of life's lessons. Don't trust nobody. |
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| smysmbrg | Dec 31 2015, 02:30 AM Post #4 |
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SteveO
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ebay adjustible rear toe arms came across this last week not sure if it will solve your problem but may be helpfull
Edited by smysmbrg, Dec 31 2015, 10:52 AM.
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| Richard123vmt | Dec 31 2015, 04:11 PM Post #5 |
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I had a look today. Does not appear to be bent. I loosened the adjuster nut and I assume the adjustment is made by turning the excentric disk underneath and then tightening the nut. What I did was try using a chisel to turn the disk so as to give a little more toe-in. (Inside wear on tire would indicate excessive tow-out.) Then tightened it up but not sure I accomplished anything. I need some instruction on how to do an alignment. I happen to have a toe adjustment tool to accurate measure total toe, but right now I need some advice. The picture I have shows an adjuster nut with a hole in it but this setup is different. UPDATE: I measured the toe using the tool and it seems I have 1/4" toe in total between wheels. I could only reach about 1/3 up the rim because of parts in the way. This would be inconsistent with wear on inside. And I doubt I changed the toe that much if at all. Tomorrow I will try again. I am not sure my adjuster is working as it should. How are you supposed to change the rear toe? Is the excentric disk supposed to turn with the nut? Can I turn it by turning the bolt on the front (inside the mount) ? I think I also have a camber gauge if I could find it. At least when I now drive it I will see if it feels different. Edited by Richard123vmt, Dec 31 2015, 04:58 PM.
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| Old Man | Jan 1 2016, 12:25 AM Post #6 |
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nut is for loosening the excentric bolt. excentric bolt turns to adjust toe. usually all rusted up and takes a lot of penetrating oil ............. go here for a "how to" on adjusting toe: http://www.lightweightmiata.com/geo/alignment/ go here to read many forum threads on toe adjustment: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=geometroforum+adjust+toe Edited by Old Man, Jan 1 2016, 12:30 AM.
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| Richard123vmt | Jan 1 2016, 05:03 PM Post #7 |
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When you say zero is best are you taking into account the spread which occurs on the road? |
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| Richard123vmt | Jan 1 2016, 05:17 PM Post #8 |
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What I seem to be looking at is not an eccentric bolt but an eccentric washer. But I guess I see the principle well enough. When it is tightly clamped in a position, that is that. I didn't mess with it today waiting for a warmer day. But I did drive it and found it handled much better, although still not great. But I considered today the possibility of the whole right rear end being bent or dislodged. I sometimes imagine viewing from the rear that the tire is splayed, but the other does too. And furthermore I always seem to see angles on all my cars. But I found the gauge I was looking for but I am not sure it is actually for measuring camber. It has a magnetic base and a weighted needle and a scale measured in degrees. So it can function as a camber gauge but on the back it talks about rafter angles so I am skeptical it is accurate enough. But anyway no noticeable difference between sides. Since a lot depends on the surface it is on, this becomes a road trip. I think the amount of difference I detect would not matter, a small fraction of a degree. I don't have any idea of what the tolerances would be. I also get a rattle noise from that part of the car. I need to get in there with the wheel off and a light. |
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| Old Man | Jan 1 2016, 07:02 PM Post #9 |
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Weight of the car is always on the road when setting toe. -- "book" calls for 'zero to 1/16 inch tow in'. I have found it best to get as close to 'zero' as possible with out going over. Also, you have to take in consideration that the rear tires width track is 9/10 inch narrower than the front tires width track. Edited by Old Man, Jan 1 2016, 07:04 PM.
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