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Good idea to replace coil springs with struts (NOT on a Metro); 2006 Suzuki Reno/Forenza
Topic Started: Jan 4 2016, 03:19 PM (705 Views)
cwatkin


My GF has a 2006 Suzuki Reno which is the hatchback version of the more common Forenza. I worked out a trade with a local shop to swap some computer work for the labor of installing these and aligning the car.

The shop suggests replacing the coil springs with the strut and wants me to provide "readymount" or "complete strut assemblies" with the coil spring already installed. I know this would save him some labor but he also states that the coil springs are likely worn and that he HIGHLY suggests replacing them at the same time. Is this him trying to get an easy job or accurate? Keep in mind that the struts have been bad on this car for over a year (since we have been dating) and were likely bad much longer than that. Of course I had to be the one who told her they were shot. You hit a bump and the rear of the car feels like it might reach orbit. Obviously the springs have been through more than their share of use because of the worn struts. What do you think?

Also, what is the suggested method on a Metro as that is likely going to be an issue for me soon?

Conor
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David95237


Sounds like he doesn't have the proper tools to compress the springs, and change just the strut.
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92blumetro
jack of all trades, master of two

time versus money. pull the strut, compress spring, remove top nut (air impact is your friend) check top plate bushing for wear, install new strut, top plate, strut nut, torque nuts, install in car

or-

remove strut, install new assembly, torque nuts.

I can do metro front struts, start to finish, about an hour, re-using the old springs. rears are even easier.
small springs compress easily.

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Car Nut
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Depending on how many miles are on the car, it may be a very good idea to replace the entire assembly. New strut, new coil spring, new strut mount, new spring cushion, all at the same time. Many people don't replace the strut mounts, but they go bad too. You can purchase the complete unit much cheaper than separately. I haven't worked on any Renos yet. They might be known to have premature spring or mount wear. I would throw some on my Metro (s) right now, if only they were available.
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cwatkin


The Reno is the same thing as a Forenza, just the hatchback version. It is also a Daewoo and not a Suzuki underneath. The only thing Suzuki is the emblem.

I posted this elsewhere and everyone is suggesting a complete assembly. They say only a couple parts like a mount or boot and you will be money behind compared to just buying the whole deal.

Conor
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Car Nut
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cwatkin
Jan 4 2016, 09:17 PM
The Reno is the same thing as a Forenza, just the hatchback version. It is also a Daewoo and not a Suzuki underneath. The only thing Suzuki is the emblem.

I posted this elsewhere and everyone is suggesting a complete assembly. They say only a couple parts like a mount or boot and you will be money behind compared to just buying the whole deal.

Conor
Exactly my point. If you intend to keep the car for a while, I would say do it. :hmm
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Stubby79
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Paying someone else to do it, might cost as much to do just the strut as it does to pay for the whole assembly.

Never bought a whole assembly myself. They didn't (appear) to do that the last time I had to, years ago. And I would have been doign the work myself, and on the cheap, so I wouldn't have anyway.
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cwatkin


I am going to barter the labor so won't need to worry about that cost. Yes, getting the whole assembly will be easier on them. They will also do an alignment which runs about $100 around here.

I figure that with the struts being so far gone and having no idea how long they have been that way (at least a year and 3 months), the parts have experienced higher than normal or other unusual stresses. You hit a decent sized bump and it feels like the suspension bottoms out which can't be good on things.

Conor
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cwatkin


I think she wants to keep the car. It will be paid off in a year so that will be money in the bank. I don't see any major issues with it and the engine seems tight, just lots of small things which I have been trying to get taken care of. This is not a car where you just put oil and gas in it and drive. You expect a minor repair every 3-6 months which seems to be the norm with these models. I expect to have to replace a $50 sensor or module pretty much every few months. The next thing we plan to replace is the valve cover gasket. I expect to get an AutoZone gift card to cover this from an AutoZone promotion.

All the things experienced with this car are pretty normal and to be expected from what I have researched. It isn't a horrible car compared to some out there but certainly not a Honda or Toyota either. I fully expect it to make it to 150k or more.

Conor
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aaronvincent
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Mr Mojo Risin'

You can change the struts on a Forenza/Reno if you want but the timing belt is going to randomly snap and destroy the crap out of your top end if it has over 110000 miles on it :news

Those things were Daewoo :shit
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cwatkin


I changed the timing belt and ANYTHING that touched (water pump, tensioner, idlers) it about a year ago. I am not sure if it was the original or not but the car had about 80k on it and the belt was pretty cracked up looking so didn't have a lot of life left.

Yes, I know it is a Daewoo. The other thing that gets me is you are lucky to get like 25mpg out of this car. This is something maybe a tad larger than a Corolla or Civic. I blame the automatic transmission. There are no check engine lights or codes present for the moment but that is always subject to change with this car.

Conor
Edited by cwatkin, Jan 5 2016, 01:05 PM.
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mt999999
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Self-Declared "Genious"

cwatkin
Jan 4 2016, 11:01 PM
I am going to barter the labor so won't need to worry about that cost. Yes, getting the whole assembly will be easier on them. They will also do an alignment which runs about $100 around here.

I figure that with the struts being so far gone and having no idea how long they have been that way (at least a year and 3 months), the parts have experienced higher than normal or other unusual stresses. You hit a decent sized bump and it feels like the suspension bottoms out which can't be good on things.

Conor
I feel the same thing in my Metro; it bottoms out on larger bumps. Not the car, but the suspension bounces up and goes down so far that it stops. I know my front struts are shot, and I have new struts sitting here. Glad to hear that I can keep the springs; I just need one of those spring compressor things.
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