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| Buying a 1989 metro; pros and cons | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 11 2016, 09:37 PM (1,027 Views) | |
| JLieb35 | Jan 11 2016, 09:37 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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ok fellas..possible ladies...Im going to buy a metro. Been talking to my dad who owned one while i was growing up. He told me to look into a 89 model bc of less frame rust issues in that model year. Truth to that? have been reading a lot about the frame rust problems. Live in the windy city of chicago so can't get away from the rust issue unfortunately. Also something I've been wondering, what about parts? being that the metros aren't in production. Is there another vehicle that is compatible with the metros? Is it a big price tag everytime you need to get something fixed? assuming not but want to cover all the bases. To the owners of this forum who aren't mechicanically inclined is it hard to find a shop to work on your metro?? Thanks for taking the time to drop some knowledge! appreciate all response! |
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| punkozuna | Jan 11 2016, 10:12 PM Post #2 |
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Howdy! Welcome to GMF! I doubt that an '89 will be less rusty than other years after all those Illinois winters. I'd look hard and travel far to get a rust free one. Typical midwest and northeast metros are rusted out by now. Suzuki Swifts were built on the same assembly line - a Metro is basically a re-badged Swift. Most parts will swap from similar year cars. It helps when looking for parts but there were a lot more Metros sold than Swifts. Here's my $.02 on the pros and cons of metros: Pros: Cheap to buy. Cheap to run. Cheap to fix. Easy to fix (by modern standards). Cons: They rust out. Early ones (pre-95) have 12" wheels. Tires are getting harder to find and cost too much. Either get a '95+ or do a wheel swap for 13" rims from a later model or even get aftermarket rims. Be sure to do your research (on this forum), there's more to a wheel swap than just buying the wheels and slapping them on. Parts are getting scarcer and there aren't a lot of them in the junk yards in a lot of places. Major parts are still available, trim parts vary. Some electronic parts can be hard to find. The most enthusiastic forum members often have more than one metro and/or a lot of parts stashed in the garage. If you're willing to scrounge, go to the junkyard, shop online (including ebay) and maybe buy a donor car, go ahead. If you have to be able to go to Napa and Autozone and get everything, it might not be the right car. It's an easy car to work on but many shops have lost the knowledge of how to do it. A shop manual helps a lot. Plan on getting one. If I were looking for one I'd look hard for rust free. Get the best one you can afford. I'd pay good (but not stupid) money for a complete, running one in nice shape. You have to an OK mechanic, or be willing to become one, before risking a low dollar POS. I'd get one that has a manual transmission - you lose a lot of mileage and performance with the old 3 speed, non-locking torque converter automatics. Having owned two early ones, I'd probably look for '97+ model but if you've got your heart set on an early model one, that's OK - just get a good one. Edited by punkozuna, Jan 11 2016, 10:14 PM.
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| ZXTjato | Jan 11 2016, 10:33 PM Post #3 |
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bass heads
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2 sides of this for me, if you are not inclined to fix your metro you best have some deep pockets for some one to do so. 2nd part of this statement, if you have the ability to read do your research and are self motivated to learn about your car this forum has more knowledge then you can put a price tag on, you just need to find it. with that said the metro is an extremely forgiving platform to learn on, they take more abuse and more neglect than I can even imagine. belts break the engine is fine, car over heats, most the time it will survive. wanna try a mod to gain some MPG? do it. the metro is an amazing car to learn and hone your skills on. when I first got my metro it was the basic stuff, oil changes tires fixing rattles, basic 10 item tool set, as I went farther along I got better at things collected more tools, I had an engine go out so I had LOTS of help from these guys at GMF and I replaced it for one that was not any better I started to change transmissions around find my favorite set up I did a full restoration on my car with sound system fresh engine good trany of my choice AC upgrade and all new suspension my metro obsession grew some more I got a few more cars read more info learned more things met friends and learn from them. now I have a full project 4 door DOHC turbo car in the shop that's being worked on. the metro is a great place to learn how to work on cars the forum is friendly we argue like family and help each other out. You get your 89 metro you best be getting active on this forum and all of us are here to help you out with advice tips and general discussion. I have even taken apart my car to take pics and help members out on some small issues.
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| cwatkin | Jan 11 2016, 11:57 PM Post #4 |
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I don't really know if the 89 is any better that any other years but be sure you find a RUST FREE frame as suggested. I would also suggest pressure washing the underbody clean, letting it dry a few days, and then treat with Eastwoods Internal Frame Saver. Some people also use a competing POR-15 product. Both get good reviews and cost about the same (NOT cheap). By pressure washing, remove the interior and spray out all the holes in the frame horns/front subframe. Let it dry really well and then treat. The other issue you see with these is neglect. They were a cheap car and lots of people treated them as a throwaway. These are very reliable little engines but do not seem to take to neglect very well. Stuck rings and burned valves seem to be all too common when people don't change the oil. You might also do a compression test on the engine to see how much life it has left. Also open the oil cap and look inside the valve cover. Does it look like a tar pit or is it pretty clean inside? It seems you find some of these engines just FILLED with sludge if they have been neglected. I am not sure how many 4 cylinders, if any, there were in 1989. I personally like the 3 cylinder with the 5 speed for the combination of performance and economy. I have never owned a 4 cylinder model. The earlier models (1994 and prior) tend to get better mileage. The 1995 and newer are not as good on the mileage but are safer in the crash tests. Also, something I didn't realize when I got my 1994 is that there are two types. One is the "standard emissions" while the other is the "advanced emissions". I have an advanced emissions which is considered an oddball. I have gotten used to working on it and don't really mind the setup now that I am familiar with it but it is a little different than my 1992. I understand the 1995 is basically a 1994 advanced emissions mechanically under the hood but has the newer style body. I would fully intend to go through the following unless you have the maintenance records stating it has been done. Redo the timing belt/tensioners, change the timing seals if leaking, put on a new water pump, replace the plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and replace the vacuum lines. I personally would pick the condition of the car over the year. Also pick the style you like. There is the older style (1994 and older) and the newer style (1995 and newer). There is also the 4 door sedan model which I don't really like but you might look into that if you want something other than a hatchback. These are SUPER easy cars to work on. I have changed engines and transmissions without a hoist. They are basically a more modern version of the VW bug if you ask me. You might think that with a car so small, things would be hard to access under the hood. This isn't the case at all. They are setup like an old pickup truck and you can basically get to anything under the hood. Conor |
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| Cobrajet25 | Jan 12 2016, 12:05 AM Post #5 |
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An '89 won't have an EGR system to get plugged up, which is a common problem on these cars. I'd say that is probably about the only advantage that particular year has over any other year. |
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| ZXTjato | Jan 12 2016, 12:07 AM Post #6 |
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bass heads
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....... There is also the 4 door sedan model which I don't really like but I'm giving you MEGA stink eyes right now...... |
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| MR Bill | Jan 12 2016, 12:52 AM Post #7 |
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Welcome to the party. |
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| mt999999 | Jan 12 2016, 02:32 AM Post #8 |
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Self-Declared "Genious"
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Welcome to the forum! ![]() Get a southern Metro and treat it for rust as soon as you get it up here. Focus on the frame horns! As a prior poster stated, many folks here like the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. |
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| Woodie | Jan 12 2016, 06:56 AM Post #9 |
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Welcome The only thing I can think of which would explain less rust through on an 89 is that most of the 89's were built in Japan, before the CAMI plant in Canada opened up. First I've heard of it though, could be your Dad just saw some random examples that made it seem that way and leaped to a conclusion. I would think that in Illinois you'd have a hard time finding an RC car which wasn't rusted through, and they're made of plastic and only used indoors on carpet! |
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| Metromightymouse | Jan 12 2016, 08:11 AM Post #10 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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4 door sedan... You have a 4 door hatchback, different beast. |
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| punkozuna | Jan 12 2016, 09:01 AM Post #11 |
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MEGA Stink eye. Nice. I'm stealing that! I'm going to use it at work today and claim I made it up.
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| idmetro | Jan 12 2016, 10:17 AM Post #12 |
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Welcome aboard! You'll want to start your research here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/1666576/1/ |
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| CAMI MAN | Jan 12 2016, 10:41 AM Post #13 |
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CUSTODIAN OF THE MR.SUZUKI CONVERTIBLE
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The cars from CAMI and Japan were built the same so there will be no difference with a rust issue .
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| cwatkin | Jan 12 2016, 12:39 PM Post #14 |
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I own a 4 door hatch. I might not like the way it looks compared to my 2 door but have no issues with it. What I am talking about is the sedan model. It looks somewhat like a small Cavalier or similar. It is personal preference. You have your choice of a convertible (1994 and older only), 2 door hatch, 4 door hatch (1994 and older only), and the 4 door sedan so there are many options for you in buying a Metro. 1994 and earlier 2 door hatch: http://bestcarmag.com/sites/default/files/23477541990-geo-metro-2.jpg 4 door hatch: http://bestcarmag.com/sites/default/files/545272362A72127-6D8D-4F94-8038-E538B759F775_1.jpg (Mine looks like this one) 1997 Sedan: http://zombdrive.com/images/1997-geo-metro-6.jpg (This is the style I am not a fan of) Convertible: http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/vehicle-pictures/1994/geo/metro/90125011990415-480.jpg 1995 and newer 2 door hatch: https://www.partrequest.com/images/geo/geo-metro-lsi.jpg There is also the Sprint if you want to go older. Have fun! Conor |
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| snowfish | Jan 12 2016, 03:40 PM Post #15 |
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Basic GearHead
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Welcome to the Party! A Metro is a DIY car for the most part. If it's a learning experience, and not a daily driver that you're after, then you in. Just find one outside of the rust belt. If you just want to drive, and still must have a Metro, then spend the money on something that has been gone through. Meaning engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. A solid, safe, running gear is of the utmost importance. And from outside the rust belt, of course. $3000.00 would be a reasonable price, but may still have a couple cosmetic blemishes. Parts will get harder to find as time goes on. For now, most parts can be had for a fairly reasonable price. Shops will work on your car. Many will not say that they won't. But some will price it so you will go away. Count the cost and carefully consider the big picture. Don't let the forum make things look too easy. If we all were honest with ourselves, counting everything, the average Metro on the road cost the owner around $1500 - $2000+ And those are in cosmetically rough to fair condition. There are some inconsiderate death traps, on the road, in that $700 or less mark. Thankfully those are very few. The mechanically perfect, and pretty ones, are in the $3500 - $5000. And some of those still have a blemish here and there. All prices are working on your own car. Prices could easily double if for hire.
Edited by snowfish, Jan 12 2016, 04:16 PM.
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I started to change transmissions around find my favorite set up I did a full restoration on my car with sound system fresh engine good trany of my choice AC upgrade and all new suspension my metro obsession grew some more I got a few more cars read more info learned more things met friends and learn from them. now I have a full project 4 door DOHC turbo car in the shop that's being worked on. the metro is a great place to learn how to work on cars the forum is friendly we argue like family and help each other out. You get your 89 metro you best be getting active on this forum
and all of us are here to help you out with advice tips and general discussion. I have even taken apart my car to take pics and help members out on some small issues.


Nice. I'm stealing that! I'm going to use it at work today and claim I made it up.
And from outside the rust belt, of course.
Thankfully those are very few.
7:30 PM Jul 10