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| Lower ball joint and tie rod end boots | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 31 2016, 05:15 PM (1,098 Views) | |
| sser2 | Jan 31 2016, 05:15 PM Post #1 |
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sser2
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On most of our cars these are cracked or ruptured. When working on steering/suspension, or replacing front wheel bearings, it is a perfect opportunity to replace them. But with what? Good luck in finding these boots for sale. When recently working on front bearing, I took off these boots and measured lower inner diameter, upper inner diameter, and height (in millimeters): 1) Lower ball joint boot: 35-16-25 2) Tie rod end boot: 28-16-23 There is a manufacturer in Bulgaria who makes a broad variety of polyurethane boots and sells them on eBay. They have perfect match for 1 and acceptable match for 2: Boot 1 Boot 2 Their prices are very reasonable. The only caveat is long shipping time. I am in no way associated with these folks, just happy with their product. These will fit 95-00 Metros. |
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| Car Nut | Jan 31 2016, 07:17 PM Post #2 |
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I believe Snowfish and 1DCGUY install replacements on their's also. Not sure where they get them from tho. Thanks for your info. |
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| myredvert | Jan 31 2016, 08:39 PM Post #3 |
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myredvert
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Energy Suspension 9.13101 Universal Tie rod Dust Boots Can be found on Ebay for somewhere around $8/pair shipped. |
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| 1DCGUY | Jan 31 2016, 08:58 PM Post #4 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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All the info you need is in this thread: I installed new lower control arms today on my new Metro, and the first thing to go was the original black boots. http://geometroforum.com/topic/4993676/1/ |
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| sser2 | Jan 31 2016, 09:26 PM Post #5 |
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sser2
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Great info, thanks! What I have found with both lower ball joint and tie rod end was that joints themselves were in good shape: tight, not corroded, and their grease was not contaminated. However, with torn boots, joint failure is only a matter of time. Boot replacement was the only thing they needed this time. Now that I have a lifetime supply of these boots, I hope my joints will last for a while. BTW, disconnecting Metro LBJ from steering knuckle is easy and does not require special tools. For a tie rod end, either pickle fork or puller are necessary. I prefer the puller. |
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| sser2 | Jan 31 2016, 09:36 PM Post #6 |
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sser2
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I looked at those. and their fitment list does not include Metro: Energy boot Different cars have many different sizes of these boots. There are no boots with universal fit. Also, original boots have groves for retainer rings, which Bulgarian boots also have, but Energy Suspension don't. Edited by sser2, Jan 31 2016, 09:40 PM.
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| solerpower | Feb 1 2016, 12:58 AM Post #7 |
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The energy suspension don't have a groove, but as long as you have the o.e.m control arm and ball joint with ring they fit perfectly. When you press them over just by hand they actually make an audible pop as they seal around the ring. You do not need the actual metal spring retain clip at all.
Edited by solerpower, Feb 1 2016, 01:00 AM.
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| sser2 | Feb 1 2016, 01:23 AM Post #8 |
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sser2
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Thanks, good to know! Which one is this - tie rod end or lower ball joint? Do they have both? |
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| solerpower | Feb 1 2016, 06:51 AM Post #9 |
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This is the lower ball joint. I don't waste time with the tie rod ends. I simply replace them with Moog new parts inner and outer. I will never go near a tie rod end with a pickle fork. I will drop the whole rack and do that all at once. I feel like a Moog rep, but who ever is running their RD really should get some praise, because there new parts are way ahead of the other companies in their design. |
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| Bannedfonz | Feb 17 2016, 01:02 AM Post #10 |
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My 2007 arctic cat takes geo metro boots! lol I had to replace a rear joint and didn't want to pay for stock boot. Bought a Geo Metro replacement (Part# Dorman 614-001) and it works great! LOL... Just had to share... |
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