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| NO heat when moving. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 15 2016, 12:57 AM (1,722 Views) | |
| nerys | Feb 15 2016, 12:57 AM Post #1 |
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Grr
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I get no heat. 8' out and once I start moving the temp reading start dropping and I lose the heat. when I stop for a bit and idle up I get heat again. its literally cooling down faster than the engine can make heat when air is moving through the front. I already have a pizza box blocking the radiator. not enough. when it does get to op temp it does stay their if I don't move or the wind does not blow ie no over heat etc.. right at the perfect spot. so the thermostat is regulating properly. it is a pretty much new cooling system. new water pump hoses radiator heater core etc.. etc.. the only old parts is the thermostat which seems to work fine and the original "metal pipe" running along the back of the engine. when the engine does get to op temp I get GREAT heat. suggestions? also blew the acc belt the other day. GRR took the damned oil dipstick with it when it shredded. Grrr $24 freaking dollars on ebay for another one :-) Edited by nerys, Feb 15 2016, 12:59 AM.
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| Old Man | Feb 15 2016, 01:22 AM Post #2 |
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do you have AC? if not is the plate in place. if you do have AC is that side blocked off with a box also? |
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| Stubby79 | Feb 15 2016, 02:36 AM Post #3 |
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This on your Metro or something else? Whatever your reasons for not thinking so, I'd still point a finger at your thermostat. Check your rad hoses...they should remain cold until the thermostat opens up. If they're not, there's coolant (and therefore heat) flowing through them. Coolant topped up? No bubbles coming up? Water pump spinning properly? |
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| Hanuman | Feb 15 2016, 02:44 AM Post #4 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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Mr thermostat is stuck open |
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| Cobrajet25 | Feb 15 2016, 03:53 AM Post #5 |
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I agree. About 95% of the time this means a stuck thermostat. |
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| myredvert | Feb 15 2016, 09:08 AM Post #6 |
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myredvert
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I wouldn't necessarily assume that. The amount of heat built up in your system while driving may happen to have been something that only appeared normal and stabilized when at idle under those particular conditions, when it also would also take the longest to be dissipated from reduced coolant flow at idle rpm and no cooling air flow over the system. I agree that the Mr. Thermostat assessment seems most likely, but if you don't want to spend money and tear into it without verifying the problem first you can first visually verify what it is actually doing by observing coolant flow in the top of the radiator. With the engine cold, open the cap, drain a small amount of fluid, leaving enough to cover the core and enough to observe flow while allowing room for expansion as the system heats up. Run your engine at idle and watch what it is does. With a weep hole/jiggle valve, there will only be a small amount of constant movement until the thermostat begins to open, and then the change in flow is immediate and very noticeable. If the thermostat is open, you should see noticeable flow from right to left as you look at the radiator from the front. The cold hose thing doesn't always hold up very well with respect to the upper hose. The thermostat housing and thermostat (even when closed) still transfer quite a bit of heat into the upper radiator hose - more so with a jiggle valve or weep hole. At idle, the coolant temperature in the top of my radiator will heat up to roughly 30 degrees below the temperature of the coolant in the block. By the time my thermostat begins to open @180, the upper hose and the coolant in the top of the radiator is already up to 150 degrees. The bottom hose is a different story, and will stay cold until the thermostat begins to open. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Feb 15 2016, 09:10 AM Post #7 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Replace the thermostat. |
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| cwatkin | Feb 15 2016, 12:19 PM Post #8 |
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Yes, replace the thermostat. Mine had the same EXACT symptoms as you describe and this was the problem. I understand some can look OK when removed but mine didn't. The center shaft had broken and it got offset so it couldn't close. Conor |
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| Freeman | Feb 15 2016, 12:33 PM Post #9 |
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The Family Man
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You can also test the thermostat with a thermometer and a pot of water. Sometimes it isn't worth it and easier to just replace it. |
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| cwatkin | Feb 15 2016, 01:06 PM Post #10 |
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I would bet money on this simply being the thermostat and nothing more so probably wouldn't bother testing myself. If it is open when you take it out, that is also a good sign. Conor |
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| PTA2PTB | Feb 15 2016, 01:33 PM Post #11 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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"NO heat when moving." The same thing happened to me one time, after my car collided with a stationary cold front moving in the opposite direction. |
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| myredvert | Feb 15 2016, 03:31 PM Post #12 |
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myredvert
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Cold fronts by definition cannot be stationary. Then it would be a stationary front. And I'm not downplaying the seriousness of frontal collisions, regardless of the type of front.
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| PTA2PTB | Feb 15 2016, 04:05 PM Post #13 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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I was paraphrasing a line from a list of car insurance company collision excuses I'd read about 30 some years ago. So, sue me! *7th one down Edited by PTA2PTB, Feb 15 2016, 04:06 PM.
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| myredvert | Feb 15 2016, 06:15 PM Post #14 |
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myredvert
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What, sue you for having an outstanding sense of humor? ![]() Nah. |
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| PTA2PTB | Feb 15 2016, 07:11 PM Post #15 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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When your first five years are spent in an orphanage, you learn to develop one. The alternative is too depressing.
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