Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
The Mostest Frustrating cars you have repaired
Topic Started: Mar 7 2016, 03:06 PM (2,086 Views)
Ephemeral Glade
Member Avatar


Recently changed out the timing belt on my ex's 2000 Honda Civic EX, a week later the camshaft seal blew out on her son's 2001 Civic. This morning the heater hose going to the block on her car burst. Had to change that.
I can't help but feel irritated that they cram-pack some much stuff where it is difficult to reach. Yeah, you can touch it - you just can't get your hand in there to do anything with it. :banghead
I am curious to know what cars other members have worked on that were frustrating/designed for engineers. Do the 4-cylinder Metros have enough room between the timing cover and the fender? If Honda wanted to make it this tight they should have used a timing chain rather than a belt. :banghead
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
nwgeo


I know Honda are ridiculously tight. Worst for me was an older Escort.... changing the transmission, what a pain.

I have a 1.3 but have not done much work on it yet.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Car Nut
Member Avatar


2001-2005 Civic cam sensor. Super tight, inspection mirrors, cut knuckles, cussing, the whole shebang.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geopat


I find working on my Honda fit to be pretty nice. It's tight but manageable. Worst car has to be a Lincoln LS
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
t3ragtop
Member Avatar
Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i could name every british car i ever owned. ;)

every fiat, too. :P
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Ephemeral Glade
Member Avatar


t3ragtop
Mar 7 2016, 06:00 PM
i could name every british car i ever owned. ;)

every fiat, too. :P
My first car was a 1972 fiat 850 Spider, and it wasn't too bad. Just fragile.
The second car I owned was a 124 "Sport" Coupe. What a piece of crap! One part of the throttle linkage was connected to the firewall, and the other on the intake manifold?! Rev the engine real good and the little rod would pop out of the firewall end. It had tiny captive nuts( keep it appropriate, guys) holding the front control arms to the frame rail, which naturally ovalized the holes giving you absolutely sloppy and variable geometry. The worst ever! Ugh!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
suzukitom
Member Avatar
Tom

A 1966 Sunbeam Minx I owned for 24 hours. It had a twin carb Solex intake manifold, which I was trying to remove. Every bolt I tried to remove snapped off even after soaking in WD40. Remarkably, the bolts after shearing off, were corrosion free. The final straw was when the gear shift lever snapped off in my hand while trying to move the car. The car sold to a hopeful gentleman the next day for 50 dollars. I waved as he insisted on driving it away with the intake manifold still frozen to the head.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geogonfa
Member Avatar


Chevette, Escort, EXP, Mitsubishi 3.0l's , and I second what t3ragtop has... :type
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

Also add in the Ford contour.
Brother in law asked me to change the dead alternator.
......after a good look I said I wasn't touching it, and I suggested he sell it.

What would posses an engineer to mount a alternator under the engine between the frame?......seriosly? Pull the engine to change the alternator?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
MarkZ28


3.4 DOHC V6 in the fwd GM cars, lol. Try getting the alternator out. Generally, of all the cars I have worked on, as a rule, Fords sucked the worst. Dumbass engineers hide what should be an easy to get to bolt under a bracket that cant be removed without removing something else. Move the bracket over one inch and it would be fine, lol. Lots of idiotic stuff like that. Easiest are the Chevy trucks, old rwd Corollas, and rwd Mopar stuff. Geos are simple and easy also but some things are a little cramped. Its like working on a toy, haha. Its kind of nice actually.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
nwgeo


geogonfa
Mar 7 2016, 07:05 PM
Chevette, Escort, EXP, Mitsubishi 3.0l's , and I second what t3ragtop has... :type
Oh, I forgot yeah 81 chevette over a cliff.

It would eat starters replace with new or rebuilt and they would last about a year.

And to take it out you hand to undo the motor mount on the side of the engine and jack that side of the engine up to be able to get it out and/or in.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
terry8750
terry8750

2005 Chrysler Pacifica took me 40 hours to swap out a blown motor for a customer .engine is supposed to come out the bottom on the engine cradle but i made it come out the top and it made my life a living hell
Edited by terry8750, Mar 7 2016, 09:56 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Cobrajet25
Member Avatar


Did a timing belt on a 1992 Ford Taurus SHO. What a pain.

Replacing the passenger side motor mount on a 1981 Jetta diesel is a PITA as well.

Rear plugs on a 1988 Pontiac Fiero Formula...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
don_dowdy
Member Avatar


Starter on a Fiero, it's under the exhaust and gets cooked after a while. Spark plugs on Firebirds and Cameros. Heater core on just about anything. To put a heater core in a Trans Am I had to stick my head under the dash and my feet out the T-Top. No glove compartment to go through. To get the transmission out of a Samurai without pulling the engine, you have to take it loose, slide it back, then pull the flywheel to have enough room for it to clear. It has to come out diagonally, so a jack won't work. You have to bench press it in and out. A Metro with a 4 cylinder isn't that much different from the three cylinder. It's the automatic transmission that makes it hard.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Ephemeral Glade
Mar 7 2016, 03:06 PM
Do the 4-cylinder Metros have enough room between the timing cover and the fender?
Enough room for what? A feeler gauge will fit through there just fine (as long as you choose the right gauge). B-) It's difficult to get a replacement alternator belt between the pulley and the frame rail.


Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
DealsFor.me - The best sales, coupons, and discounts for you
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · The Geo Metro Lounge · Next Topic »
Add Reply