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| how to do control arms? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 12 2016, 02:28 PM (965 Views) | |
| charliesdad | Mar 12 2016, 02:28 PM Post #1 |
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Hey guys I was wondering how easy or difficult it is to replace my front control arms. I have a new pair and lack of confidence has hindered me. Has anyone one a how to? Any advice or tricks would greatly be appreciated. Thanks Brian in NC
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| Memphis metro | Mar 12 2016, 02:30 PM Post #2 |
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Just get after it Brian. Words will never give justice to an explanation of difficulty level. It is not that hard. Be sure to torque everything back to torque specs. Run into problems, check back in. As to the pinch bolt for the balljoint, some dispose of the original bolt and use a longer bolt that goes all the way thru so they can put a locknut on it. More secure than the factory pinch bolt which can be stripped out. |
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| Crvett69 | Mar 12 2016, 02:37 PM Post #3 |
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when you do them just remove the front nut, not the 2 large bolts holding front pivot arm on. will need to remove the 2 rear 14mm head bolts and depending how rusty car is they may want to strip or break off, might need to use some heat if they don't want to come loose or if they are real stiff try loosening then and spray with penetrating oil and let it soak in a bit. will be a bolt and nut holding ball joint to hub. remove it and pull down. if it doesn't pop out can use a screwdriver to spread the slot a little. once it is all loose can use a hammer or mallet to tap it forward off front pivot point. do not tighten front nut until car is back on the ground at normal ride height if possible. will need to jack car up to make it easier to work on, up to you if you want to remove the wheel and tire. if its a 94 it should have a bolt and nut on the balljoint. 95 and up used just a bolt and they are a special bolt with the shank larger than the threads
Edited by Crvett69, Mar 12 2016, 02:41 PM.
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| Memphis metro | Mar 12 2016, 02:48 PM Post #4 |
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The ones I did were on 95 models. Was not aware the first generations were bolts with nuts or I have forgot. I might have done a 93 but forgot they had bolts and nuts. It has been awhile. |
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| charliesdad | Mar 12 2016, 03:40 PM Post #5 |
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What are the torque specs? I guess all will make more sense once I raise it up and get underneath. Will I need to have it aligned afterward? Thanks for the advice and support guys!! Brian |
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| Crvett69 | Mar 12 2016, 04:47 PM Post #6 |
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this is from someone else for a 96, assume the 94 will be the same, maybe someone can confirm and i would get a alignment 1996 FSM says: Control Arm Rear Bracket Bolts ... 32 lb ft Control Arm Front Bracket Bolts ... 66 lb ft Ball joint Nut and Bolt ... 44 lb ft Front Control Arm Bracket Nut ... 92 lb ft Tie Rod End Castle Nut ... 32 lb ft Drive Axle Nut ... 129 lb ft Brake Caliper to Knuckle Bolts ... 20 lb ft Strut Nut ... 37 lb ft you do not want to mess with the front control arm bracket bolts unless its bent and the through bolt and nut will be a lower torque number Edited by Crvett69, Mar 12 2016, 04:53 PM.
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| charliesdad | Mar 14 2016, 07:15 AM Post #7 |
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Thanks guys...... I am going to try and dive in on these in the next weekend or so.....will keep you posted!!!!! Brian
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| mt999999 | Mar 14 2016, 05:38 PM Post #8 |
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Self-Declared "Genious"
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I was worried too; never done lower control arms too. Check my project post, so glad that I got them done! http://geometroforum.com/topic/5823266/7/ Hopefully your car has been in NC a long time, and not near the salt water. That should minimize rust and make it easy like my SC car. Good luck! |
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