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3M Windo Weld vs ______; Alternative products to 3M Windo Weld
Topic Started: Apr 17 2016, 12:25 PM (1,075 Views)
iamgeo
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Big League

Windo Weld seems to be a great alternative to buying new motor mounts [just one of its many uses].
Has anyone found an alternative to the 3M product?
To those of you that used Windo Weld to repair/stiffen up motor mounts. How has it been holding up?


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ZXTjato
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bass heads

i window welded 1 mount on my geo the big arm one in thr front above the AC bracket. its held up quite well. i used the entire tube in one go welded up lots of clean scuffed ready to go mounts because that stuff does not keep well. also make sure you have a good gun to dispence it because the cheap gun i used broke on me because the stuff is pretty thick.
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mt999999
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Self-Declared "Genious"

I've never tried it, but it sounds like a good idea. Anyone have a link to a thread/tutorial on the stuff being used on motor mounts? What kind of tube does it come in? If it's a standard caulk gun, I have a good old metal caulking gun, the actual ratchet kind (as opposed to the cheap "smooth rod" style ones), so it should hold up pretty well.

Thanks!
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idmetro
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I've done it on all 3 mounts (totally filled them) and it transmits just a bit more vibration than I was expecting, not bad but you do notice. If I had it to do again I'd fill them halfway or perhaps try the same technique with Loctite PL S30 Polyurethane roof and flashing sealant (I'm told it's just a bit softer than the window weld and as an added bonus its $6 a tube versus $20 for the Window Weld) that said it would be an experiment as I have not used it...

Definitely use the tube of Window Weld up once you open it, it will not keep for long. A good caulking gun will help as it is pretty stiff stuff but generally stays where you put it, latex gloves will also be in order as once it's stuck to something and dried it' on there.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

window weld vs ?

here's my response.

window weld squirted into the voids of a clapped out oem type mount results in poly plugs (where the voids are) inside dead rubber. pffftttt!

set the old mount up on a band saw and cut out all the dead rubber. cut the center tube out of the dead rubber and clean it off. lay the mount on it's side and use good duct tape to hold the center tube in place. mix up a self curing 2 part polyurethane, i prefer the 80a shore harness mix, and pour it into the mount. let it sit for a day and remove the tape from the bottom side.

doing it this way results in a solid lump of polyurethane instead of the clapped out rubber with more solid plugs. when i have used the window weld the new material sort of "squirts" out of the holes under compression.

i don't see any problem with using the window weld to pot the spider in the shifter. there's no big axial pressure on that so the material doesn't get forced out of place. engine mounts though - they get lots of compression when the engine and transmission as a power unit rotates under torque and that pushes the window weld plugs right out of the slots. it doesn't completely bond to the fried rubber and all it takes is a little bit more degradation of the old mount rubber to completely release the new rubber. ;)
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

t3ragtop
Apr 17 2016, 04:04 PM
window weld vs ?

here's my response.

window weld squirted into the voids of a clapped out oem type mount results in poly plugs (where the voids are) inside dead rubber. pffftttt!

set the old mount up on a band saw and cut out all the dead rubber. cut the center tube out of the dead rubber and clean it off. lay the mount on it's side and use good duct tape to hold the center tube in place. mix up a self curing 2 part polyurethane, i prefer the 80a shore harness mix, and pour it into the mount. let it sit for a day and remove the tape from the bottom side.

doing it this way results in a solid lump of polyurethane instead of the clapped out rubber with more solid plugs. when i have used the window weld the new material sort of "squirts" out of the holes under compression.

i don't see any problem with using the window weld to pot the spider in the shifter. there's no big axial pressure on that so the material doesn't get forced out of place. engine mounts though - they get lots of compression when the engine and transmission as a power unit rotates under torque and that pushes the window weld plugs right out of the slots. it doesn't completely bond to the fried rubber and all it takes is a little bit more degradation of the old mount rubber to completely release the new rubber. ;)
i second this, when i did one of my GT mounts that was really really bad, its an 89 remember. the rubber dry rotted away from the new window weld, and i have not even had any engine in it.
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68custom


t3ragtop
Apr 17 2016, 04:04 PM
window weld vs ?

here's my response.

window weld squirted into the voids of a clapped out oem type mount results in poly plugs (where the voids are) inside dead rubber. pffftttt!

set the old mount up on a band saw and cut out all the dead rubber. cut the center tube out of the dead rubber and clean it off. lay the mount on it's side and use good duct tape to hold the center tube in place. mix up a self curing 2 part polyurethane, i prefer the 80a shore harness mix, and pour it into the mount. let it sit for a day and remove the tape from the bottom side.

doing it this way results in a solid lump of polyurethane instead of the clapped out rubber with more solid plugs. when i have used the window weld the new material sort of "squirts" out of the holes under compression.

i don't see any problem with using the window weld to pot the spider in the shifter. there's no big axial pressure on that so the material doesn't get forced out of place. engine mounts though - they get lots of compression when the engine and transmission as a power unit rotates under torque and that pushes the window weld plugs right out of the slots. it doesn't completely bond to the fried rubber and all it takes is a little bit more degradation of the old mount rubber to completely release the new rubber. ;)
+1
:gp
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Old Man


try running very hot water into your sink and immersing the glue in it for 15 minutes, change to very hot water and do it again.---this will make the glue run easier.

How to fill motor mounts:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=geometroforum+fill+motor+mounts
Edited by Old Man, Apr 17 2016, 06:16 PM.
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MarkZ28


What I have done in the past on Hondas and others is use hot glue sticks used in, of course, hot glue guns. I used a torch to heat up the glue sticks and dripped the liquified glue into the mounts. I removed the okd rubber though. It held up well, was hard, and cheap. Never tried window weld, all it is is polyurethane sealer in a tube. As stated, it can be heated up to flow better.
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Stubby79
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A hole saw (set) is pretty good at extracting the "center tube" and getting out the worst of the rubber. How much depends on how close your hole saws fit. Took me very little effort.
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

MarkZ28
Apr 18 2016, 01:15 AM
What I have done in the past on Hondas and others is use hot glue sticks used in, of course, hot glue guns. I used a torch to heat up the glue sticks and dripped the liquified glue into the mounts. I removed the okd rubber though. It held up well, was hard, and cheap. Never tried window weld, all it is is polyurethane sealer in a tube. As stated, it can be heated up to flow better.
wow didn't know this was a thing, here in az a glue stick melts in a car i could not imagine in an engine bay
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MarkZ28


It never melted and kept its shape, even on the mount that takes the torque of the engine. Maybe the glue gets harder after its heated up and used. Maybe its the brand thats different?
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