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| Problem Replacing Lower Front Control Arm; Almost there but need help | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 18 2016, 11:44 PM (854 Views) | |
| OGjuanKenobi | Jun 18 2016, 11:44 PM Post #1 |
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Hey guys! Long-time lurker here, and first I just want to thank everyone in this community. My wife rolls the Met' (or "The Little Egg" as we call it in our house) and you all have been a tremendous help to me with the repairs I've been doing on her car. So far, unbeknownst to you, I can proudly say you've helped me replace her front disc brakes, rear drum brakes, and rear wheel bearings, and saved me tons of skrilla! So... Thanks! This brings me to my current project and the reason I decided to officially join the forum and make my first post. The Little Egg needed some front end work, so I decided to kill the bulk of it all at once and I'm currently replacing the CV axles, lower control arms, tie rods, stabilizer bar links, and I threw in the automatic tranny filter since I would be draining it for the CV axles. Decided to start on the driver side and so far I have almost everything taken apart, but I got stuck on the control arm. Rather, the control arm seems to be stuck on the control arm front mounting bracket. I'm trying to avoid pulling out the two bolts that hold the front mounting bracket to the frame, since everything I've read indicates that's not a good idea. I managed to get the control arm about halfway down the bracket post, but now it won't slide down any further. I sprayed some penetrating oil around it but so far it hasn't seemed to help. I'm I missing something here, like a trick I'm unaware of? Should I just keep going with the penetrating oil and give it more time? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 18 2016, 11:53 PM Post #2 |
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more time, more penetrating oil, and pound it back on to get the oil to get into the sleeve. |
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| OGjuanKenobi | Jun 19 2016, 12:00 AM Post #3 |
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New Member
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| Car Nut | Jun 19 2016, 03:41 AM Post #4 |
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Try using some PB Blaster spray oil, in case you're only using WD40 or a similar type oil. |
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| Woodie | Jun 19 2016, 03:52 AM Post #5 |
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I've had to burn the rubber out with a torch before. Once the rubber is gone and the control arm out of the way, then you can deal with the sleeve being rusted solid to the mounting pin. Heat wrench is your friend.![]() |
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| sphenicie | Jun 19 2016, 07:12 AM Post #6 |
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DO NOT try to remove the mount pin from the frame. TOO MUCH potential for much bigger problems. Although you are not in the rust belt, it is not worth the gamble. if you are able to get it 1/2 way off, lube it and work it back on, lube more, work back and forth. you may be sliding the rubber bushing on the sleeve. Like Woodie said, burn the rubber a little and it will come right off. Then it is just the sleeve. you can grind ALMOST thru it, in 2 places, about opposite each other. then it should release. do not grind into the spindle! By grinding almost thru, you should be able to twist with vice grips (not too tight or you are putting pressure to the spindle) or use a cold chissle. Be sure to use plenty of anti sieze when you reassemble. |
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Jun 19 2016, 11:37 AM Post #7 |
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Frame Fixer
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Slice that end all the way off with the grinder cut through the Rubber and also grind through the time you leave you will be done in 15 minutes to a half-hour and not have to wait a grinder whack the old are all the way apart |
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| mt999999 | Jun 19 2016, 02:32 PM Post #8 |
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Self-Declared "Genious"
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I did both the lower control arms and ball joints on both of my Metros. The convertible was very easy, but I had problems like you on my XFi. I kept using PB Blaster and spent a few days on the project (luckily I have another car). The rubber started separating from the metal sleeve which stayed attached to the spindle. I used a lot of elbow grease to force the rubber and the rest of the control arm off of the spindle, and used PA Metro Fixer's advice above and CAREFULLY used a small angle grinder to cut a gouge into the metal piece that remained on the spindle until I was able to break it off. This seemed to be the easiest method for one that was really stuck. Take caution that you don't grind into the actual spindle that mounts to the frame horn! Oh, and welcome to the forum!
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| OGjuanKenobi | Jun 19 2016, 03:44 PM Post #9 |
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Thanks for the advice everyone. To give a little more detail, the front bushing slides almost the entire way off the mount, but right when the middle of the bushing gets over the threads on the mount, that's when it stops sliding off. When it reaches this point, to quote the great Mr. Miyagi, arm go up -> down, no side -> side. I don't see any rust on the mount post and the bushing aren't falling apart. I've been using Liquid Wrench penetrating oil to lube it up, and I'm getting ready to dive back in today after I get back from the store. Ran out of cigs this morning and I need to make sure I can "smoke a smoke" when I'm refilling the tranny fluid... |
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| davegran | Jun 19 2016, 04:43 PM Post #10 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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If you've got a big Crescent wrench(NOT a Vise Grip) and a dead blow hammer, you might be able to slide the bushing as far off as possible, tighten the Crescent wrench on the post just behind the bushing, and then hit it with the dead blow as close to the post as possible to drive the bushing off. Use lots of oil on the post. |
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| OGjuanKenobi | Jun 25 2016, 03:13 PM Post #11 |
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I have everything disassembled now, and I was wondering what type of grease I should use on the various parts? I have some high temp bearing grease for the knuckle/hub assembly, but should I get a different type for the control arm, tie rods, and stabilizer bar link or will that work for all of my needs? |
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| Crvett69 | Jun 25 2016, 05:40 PM Post #12 |
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you can put some anti-seize on the threaded parts but unless the sway bar bushings are poly ones don't grease them. the anti-seize should make removing the control arms bolts easier in the future if it needs to be done again, same with tie rod ends |
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| OGjuanKenobi | Jun 25 2016, 06:44 PM Post #13 |
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I went with Moog parts for the suspension, the control arms are R-series. I saw a tutorial for the tie rods where the guy said to put blue thread locker on the inner tie rods threads that connect to the steering column. Is that a good idea or should I use anti-seize instead? |
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| Crvett69 | Jun 25 2016, 07:21 PM Post #14 |
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the inner tie rod ends should have a washer you bend over that acts as a lock washer but you can put some thread locker on the if you want but if you ever need to replace will have to heat them up and that might ruin the rack seals |
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