Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| Steering Problem | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 23 2016, 06:52 AM (633 Views) | |
| shaft | Jun 23 2016, 06:52 AM Post #1 |
![]()
|
Is it possible for the steering rack gears on my Metro to get stripped? When turn my steering wheel (specially on sharp turns like going into a parking space), I can feel and hear a "grind" that seems like the steering rack gear is "skipping a tooth or two". After that when both front wheels are pointed straight ahead, the steering wheel is off center. Is the rack likely the culprit or is there any other components in the steering system that is worn out? |
![]() |
|
| snowfish | Jun 23 2016, 07:30 AM Post #2 |
|
Basic GearHead
![]()
|
Sounds like the rack is on it's way out. I'd think twice about driving it until it's fixed. Steering is one of the more important things, ya know.
|
![]() |
|
| shaft | Jun 23 2016, 07:41 AM Post #3 |
![]()
|
Thanks SnowFish. I can always count on you. I would assume a used rack from the JY is probably not a good idea as a replacement. Whats a good price for a new rack? |
![]() |
|
| snowfish | Jun 23 2016, 08:32 AM Post #4 |
|
Basic GearHead
![]()
|
I wouldn't be afraid of a junk yard rack. Should be able to "wiggle test" it to see if there's slack or something feels funny. I would, however, do new inner & outer tie rod ends. Much easier on the bench than on the car. Car will need an alignment anyway. Might as well insure everything is solid.
|
![]() |
|
| Old Man | Jun 23 2016, 08:41 AM Post #5 |
![]()
|
I think there is a couple of 'universal joints' between the steering wheel and the steering box. Along with that I also believe one of the joints is connected to the shaft with a spline. If all that is true, there is a possibility that the splines are slipping past each other--maybe the locking nut/bolt has become loose? Just something to check before spending big bucks and/or time for parts not needed. EDIT: might also check the steering wheel spline. Edited by Old Man, Jun 23 2016, 08:53 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| shaft | Jun 23 2016, 10:04 AM Post #6 |
![]()
|
Just searched craigslist and found a parts car (95 and 96 model, mine is a '93) and the guy wants $30 for the rack. 95 or 96 rack work on my '93? Is 30$ a reasonable price if in good shape? I just replaced the inner and outer rod ends about 5K miles ago. Edited by shaft, Jun 23 2016, 10:06 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| shaft | Jun 23 2016, 10:49 AM Post #7 |
![]()
|
Thank you old man. I will check. |
![]() |
|
| snowfish | Jun 23 2016, 03:06 PM Post #8 |
|
Basic GearHead
![]()
|
$30 for a decent rack would be a great price! However, I'm not sure if the 95 rack is the same as a 93. Not sure if just the inner tie rod ends are longer, or the whole thing is different. Hopefully someone more 95+ savoy will chime in.
|
![]() |
|
| shaft | Jun 23 2016, 04:08 PM Post #9 |
![]()
|
I have a feeling the 95+ steering rack will not fit my '93. Rockauto have different part numbers for 95 and 93. My local junkyards has no metros available. Call all the local parts store and they don't carry it either. Ebay and Amazon has the remanufactured ones but too expensive for me (250-275$). How about this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/351748337977?item=351748337977&viewitem=&vxp=mtr Any experience from this seller? Looks like they have a bunch of metro's to part out. Edited by shaft, Jun 23 2016, 04:11 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| don_dowdy | Jun 24 2016, 05:18 AM Post #10 |
![]()
|
$52 and free shipping from Oregon to North Carolina is a good deal. Considering the shipping on something the length of a rack, he might only end up with $10 or $20. Be careful taking it loose. The bolts tend to break. |
![]() |
|
| Woodie | Jun 24 2016, 05:40 AM Post #11 |
![]()
|
I'd take it apart and inspect it closely before spending much money. I doubt it's the rack. |
![]() |
|
| Old Man | Jun 24 2016, 08:59 PM Post #12 |
![]()
|
|
![]() |
|
| sphenicie | Jun 25 2016, 05:46 AM Post #13 |
![]()
|
I must cosign here. Put the front end up on jacks and examine all of the moving parts. Turn the wheel to 'rough spot' and wiggle everything from the steering wheel to each of the wheels. C V's, Wheel bearings, strut bearings(top of the tower), Have a helper turn steering wheel while you hold back on the tire, feel for play, roughness, skipping. if you still can not isolate it, pull the outer tie rod ball joints out of the knuckles and repeat. turn steering wheel all the R then L. This will allow you to look at the R&P with out the other components effecting it. |
![]() |
|
| shaft | Jun 25 2016, 11:22 AM Post #14 |
![]()
|
Problem solved. It was loose bolt on the top universal joint on the steering column -- it allowed the shaft to rotate when the wheel is turned. Got some locktite on it so all is well. Thank you all for inputs. Cheers !!! |
![]() |
|
| snowfish | Jun 25 2016, 11:35 AM Post #15 |
|
Basic GearHead
![]()
|
Gotta love the free fixes!
|
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Suspension/Steering/Alignment · Next Topic » |


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.





I'd think twice about driving it until it's fixed.
Steering is one of the more important things, ya know.
Should be able to "wiggle test" it to see if there's slack or something feels funny.
Car will need an alignment anyway.
Might as well insure everything is solid.
Gotta love the free fixes!
7:30 PM Jul 10