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| Accelerates left, brakes right | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 30 2016, 10:03 AM (849 Views) | |
| Raingutter | Jul 30 2016, 10:03 AM Post #1 |
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Metro Addict
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Got a situation that is baffling the hell out of me, so I am looking for some insight. My '97 hatchback will pull to the left when I start out and continue until 5th gear. The steering wheel's position goes about an inch or two to the left from center. It will pull to the right when the brakes are applied and the steering wheel goes an inch or two to the right from center. When driving about 45 mph, I am constantly battling the steering wheel to keep it centered. At times, going around curves, the right front tire feels like it is going to buckle in. (this could be my imagination) Within the past month and a half, the control arms on both sides were replaced, new front brakes pads. There is no play when checking tie rods and ball joints. Everything looks and feels solid. Could one of following be causing this? Inner tie rod Rack & Pinion Struts Sway bars (they are tight and solid) Transmission Frame weakness (nothing can be seen of rust rot yet) Something from the back end of the car Thoughts? Opinions? Suggestions? Thanks! |
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| David95237 | Jul 30 2016, 10:06 AM Post #2 |
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Swap your tires and see if it changes. |
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| evmetro | Jul 30 2016, 10:21 AM Post #3 |
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Loose control arm or deteriorated control arm mount. Jack the front wheels up and see which one you can move fore and aft in the wheel opening. A deteriorated control arm mounting point should be suspected if you live in PA, and can lead to a lethal failure. Check those out asap. A wheel that moves back in forth in the wheel opening will make the car pull left or right. If you accelerate and the car pulls left, it is because the right wheel moved forward in the wheel opening. When you decelerate, the car will pull right as the wheel moves back. When coasting in neutral or with the clutch in with no brake applied would likely feel normal. |
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| Raingutter | Jul 30 2016, 10:37 AM Post #4 |
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I have swapped out tires to no effect. |
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| Raingutter | Jul 30 2016, 10:39 AM Post #5 |
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I have tried to get any play out of the tires. They seem to be solid. This could be the issue and it is not deteriorated enough for me to physically move it myself. I will double check this. |
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| 1DCGUY | Jul 30 2016, 10:47 AM Post #6 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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I have felt what you are talking about on 2 of my Metro's, and if your car has been in Pennsylvania it's entire life, you better get under it and check the frame horns out really good. Rust is your enemy, and from what I've heard about Pennsylvania, they use just as much salt on their roads as Minnesota. Be very careful, until you know for sure. Maybe take a few pictures of both frame horns, and post them on here. There are a few of us that know what to look for if you are unsure of what you are seeing. |
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| Raingutter | Jul 30 2016, 05:35 PM Post #7 |
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Metro Addict
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No need for pictures because there is no visible rust damage on the outside of the horns. Not saying that it hasn't eaten the car up from the inside, which is probably what is happening. I spray the entire underneath every two months with oil to keep the outside rust down. |
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| 1DCGUY | Jul 30 2016, 06:10 PM Post #8 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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If you have a small screw driver, get under the car and really poke at the frame horns. And when I mean poke at them, try jabbing the screw diver into the frame horn, you may be surprised what happens. I'm hoping you don't find anything, and it's something else. |
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| Woodie | Jul 31 2016, 05:19 AM Post #9 |
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Jack up the back and wiggle and pry everything back there too. If something's moving back there it could feel as if it's up front. |
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| sphenicie | Jul 31 2016, 06:41 AM Post #10 |
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the frame horns deteriorate from the inside out. unsealed sheet metal laps and a couple of holes, allow water in. Once trapped inside the rust begins. Don't be scared to scratch the paint, it is way to important to be sure you are not at the edge of disaster. work the bottom, along the lower lip. I like to 'fill' the void with grease, to help stop any internal rusting. Hopefully this is not the issue, but be sure. Be safe. I've taken that ride.........when the control arm lets go while driving. They don't have this ride at Marriots Great America, cause,"it aint no fun!" |
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| sphenicie | Jul 31 2016, 06:58 AM Post #11 |
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Generally, a pulling in the steering would be associated with bad alignment or brakes. Do your tires show any unusual wear patterns? Have you checked your calipers, ie do the pistons move freely? Does one or the other of your front wheels get noticeably "warmer" than the other? just a thought, but are your front tires both the same size? not just 13", but they must both be exactly the same, 155R70 13 for example. if you have a 155r70 and a 185r80, not only will the car handle poorly, but you are eating up your transmission. both front tires MUST be the same size. Exactly the same. |
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| Raingutter | Jul 31 2016, 04:33 PM Post #12 |
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Metro Addict
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Found the answer to my problem. The Pennsylvania salt claims another victim. Found some rust and cracks from where the large rubber piece of the control arm bolts on to the drivers side rocker panel. RIP Oscar. |
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| evmetro | Jul 31 2016, 04:59 PM Post #13 |
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Luckily you caught this early enough to say RIP oscar, and not RIP raingutter. Sorry to hear about your loss though. |
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| Woodie | Aug 1 2016, 05:14 AM Post #14 |
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PA.metro,fixer,frames,etc might be able to do something for you. He's two hours west of you, in Mercer, PA. http://geometroforum.com/profile/520482/ |
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| Raingutter | Aug 17 2016, 09:02 AM Post #15 |
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evmetro, Thanks, it was almost both for RIP, but luckily I was only doing about 20mph when it went and tried to drive me through the post office instead of past it. |
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