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| Manual Trans Removal /Clutch Guide; How to remove the transmission | |
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| Topic Started: Sep 10 2008, 09:36 PM (2,931 Views) | |
| Johnny Mullet | Sep 10 2008, 09:36 PM Post #1 |
"Mullet of Ox"
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Here is my transmission and clutch removal guide for you to enjoy. Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper unless you are an anorexic. First thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Give it a good shakin' (without denting the body -lol-) to make sure the car is safe because you will be directly under the car and nobody wants to die unless you think you can bench-press a Metro. Start off under the hood and.......... Remove battery (2 10MM nuts) Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts) Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull) Remove clutch cable (14MM nut) Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts) Unplug reverse light connector (duh) Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt) Reference pic below..................  Now you are done under the hood for now. Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removal. Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet) Remove the LF tire (4 19MM) Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM) Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut) Push in axle shaft to see if it's free  Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt) Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate.  Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside  Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts. Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found out removing these were actually the hardest part of the entire job! These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link a double joint (not the kind you roll) and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't even try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.  After getting this far, it's time for a short break to collect your senses and thoughts so you don't screw up. Ok, so lets get this transmission out now. Remember all that fun you had removing the shift rod? Get back under there and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans. Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM) Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM) Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM) Use the floor jack holding engine to help you. While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut) Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)  Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube. Under car remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts) Top of car, remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts) Make sure you removed bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM) Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM) Lean over car and grab trans (like you love it) and begin carefully wiggling the trans loose from the engine and use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not as buff as me :rolleyes: Now remember in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground? If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. Good luck with that.    Now it is time for the clutch. This is gravy work now. Hopefully you got all the proper parts and supplies like a brand new -=Sachs=- Clutch kit and 3 quarts of Synchromesh trans oil from Pennzoil, GM, or Castrol. The shop I work at only uses the best products and that is what I used.  Replace throwout bearing on trans side Remove the old clutch (6 12 MM bolts) Replace the pilot bearing from flywheel (I made a tool) If you want to resurface, then remove the flywheel instead. I simply used a medium grit Roloc and carefully scuffed mine. These engines have like 55 HP so I am 100% sure this was sufficient.  Use the alignment tool provided with the kit and verify which way the clutch faces. Install the clutch and pressure plate and use threadlocker on the clutch bolts. Draw them down evenly and get them tight. Use torque specs if you want from a manual. As you are tightening, wiggle the guide tool and make sure clutch is centered.  Here it is painted and then installed..............  
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| chads4drhatch | Oct 29 2008, 09:35 PM Post #2 |
 
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so you would recommend the Sachs clutch Kit above all others.....since I am in the process of gathering up info for my clutch job I just wanted to know. I have found a few brands............ Luk $140, Exedy $115, Sachs $120, AC Delco $120....and didn't know which to buy, I was leaning toward the cheaper Exedy clutch. And I have been told to replace my rear main seal, did you do that during your clutch change? Is Syncromesh what is required? I thought plain old gear oil would work. BTW That tranny looks awesome painted! too bad I dont have access to a parts washer! mine is covered in oil from a leaky valve cover so i dought paint would stick even from a good hand cleaning 
Edited by chads4drhatch, Oct 29 2008, 09:38 PM.
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| Johnny Mullet | Oct 29 2008, 09:44 PM Post #3 |
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"Mullet of Ox"
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I always recommend Sachs! I am a mechanic and have been installing this brand on all makes and models and never had an issue or a comeback using this product. Pay now or pay dearly later  My rear main was not leaking and I never bothered to remove the flywheel. If you would like to do that just because, go for it! I feel that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I use Synchromesh oil because it is the current recommended oil for these transmissions. I ran 75W140 in my first trans, but it made it hard to shift. The synchromesh is much better for the brass sychro rings. My painted trans does not look that good now since it was cheap silver spray paint, but when looking under the hood, you can still see it is newer looking than the rest of the car. Next time I would choose black. Good luck on your trans removal job! |
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| chads4drhatch | Oct 29 2008, 10:10 PM Post #4 |
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OK, looks like I'll try Sachs...its $118.61 including shipping/handling. I will leave the rear main alone if I see no oil, plus I have no desire to pull the flywheel off! Looks like I should use the Syncromesh too, Maybe it'll help the little bit of difficulty I have going into Reverse but that hurts at $7.00 a bottle!  lolYup I'll just clean up the trans with brake clean and put her back on! I will take pics too, I should be doing this job in about a few weeks. Thanks for the info. |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 7 2008, 05:44 PM Post #5 |
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Its going to be happening soon!!!!! I just ordered my SACHS clutch kit (the price jumped like $15 ...imagine that?? but I found a $10 off coupon code luckily!) I already have 3 Qts of Pennzoil Synchromesh and I got some large pieces of cardboard from work. I am borrowing jackstands and jack from my godfather. I have tools.....and WD40!!!!!! I did have one question though.....how do you go about removing the pilot bearing....how did that tool you made work????? (I have heard of the old grease trick but I'm just curious) and wut about that throwout bearing??? o_O |
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 7 2008, 09:35 PM Post #6 |
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"Mullet of Ox"
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You will get a new throwout bearing with the kit. Carefully remove the old one noticing how it came off and install the new one. The pilot bearing was removed by using a "Ladyfoot" prybar. I heated the tip and bent it over 90 degrees so it fits in the bearing. I then used a hammer on the original hook part to persuade it out. Just be damn sure to not grab the shift lever at all during the trans install. I did and ended up cocking the throwout bearing out of place and had to drop the trans and fix it. Good luck! |
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| rr87 | Nov 7 2008, 11:46 PM Post #7 |
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50 MPG!
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
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very good article. |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 11 2008, 02:48 PM Post #8 |
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It just came in!!!! I think I am going to do it this Saturday....If I encounter any problems you guys will know it LOL I will take lots of pictures....here is one of the kit (just like Johnny's pic) BTW....I have another Question, What would make the pedal "bind up" occasionally. When it happens I take my foot off the clutch pedal and it doesn't come back up all the way....the only remedy that helps is to quickly push it back in and side step the clutch....it then slams in and comes back all the way up......keep in mind the clutch already slips badly but when it binds it slips alot worse......thanks for any suggestions 
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| bennie442 | Nov 11 2008, 05:10 PM Post #9 |
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Probably your clutch cable is beginning to fray. Or you might be lucky and only need to lube it. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 11 2008, 06:48 PM Post #10 |
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"Mullet of Ox"
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Maybe after replacing the clutch and related parts, the pedal will act normally. The pressure plate could be borked causing that. Let us know! |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 11 2008, 10:07 PM Post #11 |
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I hope its something simple like that.... |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 11 2008, 10:10 PM Post #12 |
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will do! |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 13 2008, 09:30 PM Post #13 |
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Well I'm in trouble!!!!!!!! We started to this project and just hit a wall....that damn nut thats under the starter won't budge!!!! used PB Blaster penetrating oil...6point wrenchs..... 6 point sockets.....and it is now rounding.....i dont know what to do
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 13 2008, 09:51 PM Post #14 |
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"Mullet of Ox"
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Patience is the key now my friend. This is what draws the line between a good mechanic and a hack. Here is what you need to do.................. Find a quality 6 point socket that fits it tight or even a tad smaller. Add an extension to it so you can get a clear hit with a hammer and strike the end of the extension several times. This will seat the socket and also jar it loose some. Don't be afraid to nail that sucker, but try and hit it nice an square several times with straight shots. If it won't loosen and it feels like it might snap, then fuck it, let it break off. One bolt really won't matter. If it wont loosen or strips that way, then borrow or rent a torch and heat the nut until it's cherry red. This will take a long time with a handheld torch), but go quickly if you can borrow real torches. Try beating a socket on and try again. If that does not work and all else fails, then it will need spun or cut off with an air chisel. Let me know. Remember................. Patience. Don't get mad, walk away. |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 14 2008, 10:11 AM Post #15 |
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thanks for the advice....we are gonna go at it again around 4pm....but my uncle is going to swing by and help us do this (he is a very experienced mechanic) |
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