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| Manual Trans Removal /Clutch Guide; How to remove the transmission | |
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| Topic Started: Sep 10 2008, 09:36 PM (4,529 Views) | |
| Fireball 89 | Nov 14 2008, 10:55 AM Post #16 |
2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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Hang in there Chad8329. Patience is indeed needed here. Johnny Mullet's advice is the logical progression and time tested method for fastener removal. Generally everything is manageable even when the fasteners are hard to reach directly and "square-on", you're a bit flustered, hot, a fly keeps landing on your ear, BUT, add that guaranteed dirt particle that shakes loose off the exhaust system, flies upwind and around your glasses into your eye, then things quickly deteriorate. Patience is forgotten. Immediate action, some kind of decisive action, destructive action, is needed. Here is the point when your actions will compound your problem fastener. Heed Johnny Mullet's advice, "Patience. Don't get mad, walk away." I liberally use GUNK brand Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant on all my mechanical projects. I hose the offending fastener down, give it a solid whack with a hammer and do some other project for about an hour. If the fastener still does not come off, I put a torch to it. If the fastener still does not come off, then you will have to cut it off. I hope you will not have to get to the torch area of the list, but if you do, please be aware of where your torch flame is at all times. The engine compartment is full of things that will light off with a quick pass of the torch. A fire extinguisher is cheap insurance, better still is a buddy standing watch with the fire extinguisher. Buddies are also really good for laughing at you when you get stuff in your eye... Edward |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 14 2008, 09:29 PM Post #17 |
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OK we got the nut off!!!! My uncle brought his snap-on socket set and a long rachet. I had soaked the nut with PB Blaster and smacked it with a hammer a few times last night to help for today and apparently the combination of things worked! Then we wiggled the transmission out and changed the clutch. The clutch disc was very thin, blue from heat!!!, and the rivets had completely destroyed the old pressure plate Unfortunatly after removing the trans the car started leaking antifreeze...I thought we had broke that black pipe because it appeared like it was leaking from it....but luckily it was just a dried out o-ring between the black pipe and the waterpump. Tommarrow we will put the trans back into the car and put everything else back on and it will be done. I cant wait!!! |
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| Hacksaw | Nov 14 2008, 09:38 PM Post #18 |
Disciple of Johnny Mullet
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A good night's sleep when facing a problem always seems to help...Glad to here you got a nut off! Hacksaw. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 15 2008, 07:07 AM Post #19 |
"Geo Whisperer"
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Good job! Quality tools make a huge difference. |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 16 2008, 01:34 AM Post #20 |
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OK, we got the trans completely re-installed and everything hooked back up..............but now we have an adjustment problem........you push the clutch pedal down and try to move into a gear and it wont....let off the clutch just a little and it will go into gear....but its weird cause when you get it into a gear you can push the clutch pedal all the way down and it starts to engage and move the car a bit. ?????? |
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| chads4drhatch | Nov 16 2008, 10:17 PM Post #21 |
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***********UPDATE************* I re-adjusted the clutch cable today.....during the test drive I noticed that it was not "biting" as well as I thought it should and I could floor it in 5th and it would slip! Found out that I had adjusted it too tight which prevented the pressure plate from putting full pressure on the clutch disc. Now it bites hard!!! Lets just say I "accidentally"  did a one wheeler peeler without much effort at all!  LOLNow about the clutch engaging when pushing the clutch pedal all the way down, we found out that the bump stop on the clutch pedal was missing....we took a piece of rubber and made a new one. Now the pedal goes down and stops at the proper spot and prevents it from engaging. Also that weird binding thing were the clutch pedal wouldn't come back up all the way has ceased. Last, I would like to thank everyone here that helped me through this....Johnny, this guide is great and I thank you for your assistance. I did take pics and I will upload them soon! PS (Johnny) Though the guide is intended for 1995-2001 Metros, It was pretty dang close on everything for my 1994. The only discrepancys were bolt sizes and amounts of bolts....also on the double joint of the shift linkage mine was only able to be removed on one joint....the other was welded!!! I used a little bit different method to deal with the CV shafts too...I just removed the two strut-to-knuckle bolts on both sides and it gave enough play to get the shafts out without removing the brake calipers and balljoints. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 17 2008, 06:35 AM Post #22 |
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"Geo Whisperer"
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I am glad it all worked out for you. I was going to reply to the engagement issue, but see you have it figured out. |
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| chads4drhatch | Jan 19 2009, 10:38 PM Post #23 |
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OK....finally got the pics from my godfather and uploaded them to photobucket "better late than never" They aren't in any particular order either....and feel free to copy them if you want to.................. Here they are:               Edited by chads4drhatch, Jan 19 2009, 10:40 PM.
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| chads4drhatch | Feb 26 2009, 03:33 PM Post #24 |
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you were right about those sachs clutches mullet.....it hasn't so much as hiccuped since getting everything installed and adjusted. It is a real nice having piece of mind in that dept now NOW just got a dozen other things to fix and I'll be good!
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| 2000Firefly1.3L | Feb 26 2009, 05:23 PM Post #25 |
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Elite Member
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
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it would be nice to have an auto-to manual transmission swap thread. i have a donor car but swapping them is beyond my ability. |
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| 2000Firefly1.3L | Apr 15 2009, 01:32 PM Post #26 |
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Elite Member
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i need to have a question answered: i want to remove the manual transaxel from my parts car, but in my haynes manual says 'the engine must be supported at all times while the transaxel is out of the vehicle' ... I don't plan to put the transaxel back so what should i do then ? |
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| Fireball 89 | Apr 15 2009, 02:53 PM Post #27 |
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2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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There are a couple of ways to support the engine. The first way I support the engine is the 2x4 on a bottle jack. A fancier way is the 2x4 on a floor jack as illustrated a few posts up. The second way is to "suspension bridge" the engine. This involves resting a steel beam/stout piece of wood across the engine compartment. On some illustrations the beam seats on the strut towers or on the inner fender where the hood meets the body/fender. The ends of the beam should be well secured, a slipped beam could lead to an injury or damaged engine/fender. Now you've got the bridge. The engine can now be supported by attaching a chain to the engine and looping the chain around the beam, secured with chain hooks or bolts. In dedicated engine supports, engine specific lifting hooks are attached to threaded rods that are specifically placed on the steel beam. I'm sure there are other ways to support the engine. Here's two. Edward |
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| Way | Jul 11 2009, 03:13 PM Post #28 |
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New Member
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I'm in the process of taking out the trans and I've gone through your guide here. I have a couple of questions 1. Why remove the clutch cable bracket? Is there a clearance problem if I don't? 2. I notice that a reply on another forum states that you don't have to remove the axle nut and caliper to remove the drive shaft. In looking at this picture I notice that the tie rod remains connected:  It seems like there's only going to be so much movement no matter which way I go. If I leave the strut connected, will I have the range of motion I need to slide the shaft out of the trans? 3. If I remove the two strut bolts will I need a compressor for the springs? 4. Will the trans stay connected when I remove all the bellhousing bolts? I'm kind of nervous about removing the bolts without having the transmission supported. 5. Any trick to starter removal? Seems like it's pretty tight to get in there. |
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| chads4drhatch | Jul 11 2009, 04:42 PM Post #29 |
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I'll try to answer your questions, let me know if it makes since or not....sometimes it doesn't!  1. Not a clearance issue, but it supports the clutch cable, which goes from the clutch lever to the firewall and to the pedal....and you cant seperate the cable from this bracket, so the whole bracket has to come off. Its no biggy really.  2. I used the alternative method that does NOT involve messing with the brake components or removing the axle nut. I altered your picture to explain...  You remove the two "strut to knuckle" bolts on the drivers side. this allows the rotor to tip or tilt downwards. this gives you just enough play to pop out the drivers cv shaft and set it aside. the passange side will come out when you remove the tranny, its a little tricky for re-assembly, the passanger side cv has to be lined up as your wiggling the tranny back on, but a helper made this a breeze. there is NO way you will have enough room to do this with doing any method, you either have to use mullets method or this one. mullets is smarter if you planned on changing bearings or rotors at the same time, but i had just done my rotors and brakes so i wanted the quick way. ALSO, the tie rod does NOT need to be disconected for the quick way either, actually i found it helpful connected, i could turn the wheel and change which way i leaned the rotor to help take out the cv shaft and to put the it back in. 3. No not at all, the two strut to knuckle bolts have nothing to do with the strut and spring assembly....they just fix them to the knuckle. 4. YES it will stay connected, there are alignment pins or sleeves? that stick out of the engine and slide into the trans, they also help with reassembly. 5. I only had a problem with the one bolt under the starter....we rounded it off! It wasnt to hard to get too, but MAKE SURE TO USE GOOD QUALITY "6 point preferably" sockets and wrenches. Spray all the bolts with penetrating oil like PB Blaster, and smack the bolts that look questionable with a hammer and socket flush on the bolt to jar it loose FIRST! Edited by chads4drhatch, Jul 11 2009, 04:53 PM.
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| Way | Jul 11 2009, 05:27 PM Post #30 |
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New Member
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Hi Chad, thank you very much for the work you put into your answer. It was just what I was looking for bro.  One note is that I have the clutch cable separate from the bracket and the bracket is just sitting there. Not a big deal like you said though. I took a peek at the back of the starter and I see what looks to be a hole where one of the bolts is supposed to go:  I'm not sure though as that looks like it's just part of the casting. ---Wayne |
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