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| 1.0L Head Repair Guide | |
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| Topic Started: Sep 10 2008, 09:41 PM (3,335 Views) | |
| Johnny Mullet | Sep 10 2008, 09:41 PM Post #1 |
Hi-Tech Redneck
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The little Metro I bought had a cylinder misfire and after diagnosing the problem, I found no compression in one of the 3 cylinders and low compression in #2. This means the head needs pulled to see the problem. First thing is to take pictures of all the vacuum lines and hoses so when you get to putting it together, you have a reference point. The most common issue with these 3 Cylinder engines for a dead cylinder in burnt exhaust valves from either timing or clogged EGR ports. This guide can be used for all 3 Cylinder Suzuki engines. Get the car in a suitable work area.  Set engine so Cyl #1 is at top dead center (TDC) or line it up w/belt marks.(TDC). Disconnect battery. Drain the oil and coolant. (17mm drain plug) Remove upper rad hose from engine side. (squeeze clamp) Remove throttle cable and all attached vacuum lines. (12MM locknut & squeeze clamps) Mark plugs and wires and remove wires, cap and rotor. (8MM bolts) Mark distributor and remove. (T40 or 12MM) Remove the air cleaner housing and tube. (10MM bolt and nut) Loosen the alternator bolts (one on top and 2 below) and remove belt. (12MM bolts)  Remove the water pump pulley. (10MM bolts) Remove the crank pulley. (4 or 5 8mm bolts - don't remove center bolt)  Remove timing belt cover. (8 10MM bolts and loom holders) Check and correct timing marks and note rotation. Loosen tensioner and remove belt and mark belt rotation if re-using it. (12MM bolt)  Inspect water pump and replace if questionable (wanna do this again?) Remove exhaust manifold bolts and use heat if tight & pull away from head. (10MM bolts and nuts)  Remove the 4 valve cover nuts and strike the seals off. (10 MM)  Remove the head bolts with a breaker bar from outside in. (8 10MM 12 point bolts) Get a buddy to lift up head & intake assy and remove vacuum lines, grounds, fuel lines, etc) Look on the engine block for the small oil check valve and don't loose it! Place head in a clean work area with lots of room to work.  Put rags in cylinder holes and clean mating surface on head, pistons & exhaust manifold.  Clean head surface and clean out the EGR port. Remove EGR valve and clean all ports. Remove the camshaft bolts and cam and remove the gear and replace seal. (6 10MM bolts/studs - 17MM cam bolt) Remove the lifters put in order. Use a valve spring compressor with adapter and remove the valves (keep parts ordered and use your buddy) or use a hammer and a socket with a rag as described in the detailed head rebuild thread linked in this thresd.  Clean surfaces and lap in all the valves (intake & exhaust) with lapping compound and re-install.  Re-install lifters and camshaft. (use torque specs from a manual) Double check all of your work and gasket mating surfaces.  Remove intake from head and replace gasket. (optional) Before installing the head, pour about a cup of kerosene into each cylinder on top of the pistons. Look for leakdown. If one or more drains, you will need to rebuild the bottom end. If not, the bottom end might be OK, but a few hours more and you can do it all. Get your buddy to help you re-install the head and double check all connections! Do not forget the ground wires that bolt on the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side. Torque all 8 head bolts to specs and order with info from manual. Install a new timing belt (or used one) and check timing marks. Re-assemble the same way you took it apart and please double check vacuum lines since there is a lot of them. Clear all DTC's if you forgot to disconnect battery. Fill oil and coolant and fire it up! Now you may have to set the timing, so reference your manual! Let the car get to operating temperature and check for leaks and burp the coolant. Leave the rad cap off and let it run at least 30 minutes. Coolant will burb out, but that is because of trapped air. Let it burp and keep adding. Test drive and watch the coolant temp since an air pocket may occur. Be sure to change the oil after 500 miles. More detailed instructions on the head repair can be found here..... http://geometroforum.com/topic/1299263/ Now that you are a certified Suzuki mechanic, get a job! I hope you enjoyed my guide! |
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| metrojoe | Sep 10 2008, 10:02 PM Post #2 |
smokin'
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this is exactly what i needed to help me with my 1992 but are the engines the same as the newer ones?? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Sep 10 2008, 10:10 PM Post #3 |
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Hi-Tech Redneck
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This is very similar to the older 1.0L engines. There may be a few slight differences in bolt sizes and stuff, but this guide will work for you. |
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| dale002 | Oct 8 2008, 11:40 AM Post #4 |
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What check valve? Is this the one that is located in the block? Kind of looks like a carb jet? because I did not see one when I removed the head. But I did noticed this in the fwd side of the block. The head gasket has a crush seal around it. Is this the check valve? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Oct 9 2008, 05:19 AM Post #5 |
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Hi-Tech Redneck
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No, there should be a brass/plastic check valve in the hole. It goes in the passenger side front of the block. Also make sure the head gasket has the holes cut properly for the oil returns. I have heard of head gaskets that needed the oil return hole cut larger to match. These 2 issues will cause head oiling issues and cause smoke 
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| metromad | Oct 9 2008, 09:31 AM Post #6 |
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Moderator
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My .02, if you are working on a late model Metro, "95 or later, do yourself a favor and get head bolts for the '94 and newer models. The only diff. is the older model head bolts were standard style bolt heads and much easier and more forgiving to tighten and loosen. Those 12pt torx style they use on the later ones scare the bejezzus out of me. Strip one and you have a very expensive problem. |
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| dale002 | Oct 9 2008, 07:41 PM Post #7 |
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Blue smoke? I'm having issues with my running very rich after a head change. |
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| sparkz | Oct 10 2008, 03:35 AM Post #8 |
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New Member
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
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x2 blue smoke lots of it and a knock i think, that is why im selling |
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| rr87 | Dec 15 2008, 12:01 AM Post #9 |
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50 MPG!
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Very helpful guide, but I doubt I can do that yet. I think I will need a covered garage and a lot more tools than I have right now. |
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| ltbordo | Dec 17 2008, 07:58 PM Post #10 |
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New Member
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how do you remove the distributor from the head. I removed 2- 10 mm bolts and it will turn a little but I cannot remove it. ???? bordo nice guide mullet man! |
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| metromad | Dec 18 2008, 11:01 AM Post #11 |
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Moderator
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Just pull! You might have to wiggle it a bit while pulling. Its a fairly tight fit plus you have an "o" ring providing resistance as well. This assumes, of course, that the 10mm bolts you refer to are the ones in the timing adjustment slots at the 1'o clock and 6 'o clock positions of the distributor itself. There are also 2 visible 10 mm bolts that hold the entire housing on. Removing these will not allow the dist. to come off. There is a third bolt under the dist. just above the 6 'o clock bolt that the dist. needs to be be out in order to remove. So, look at the dist. Find the the slots that are approx. 3/4" long. If you still have bolts in those slots, you need to completely remove them. DO NOT try to force the entire dist. base off of the head until you get the dist. off. You will only succeed in breaking the housing and those can be a bear to find. |
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| 87octane | Dec 22 2008, 07:02 PM Post #12 |
drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
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I didn't have the adapter for my valve spring compressor while tearing the head down last night. Noticed a sparkplug socket fit nice against the spring retainer. Flipped the head upside down on the bench, spark plug socket upside down on the bench pressed against retainer, pushed down on head, valved lifted off seat. Used my thumbs to press down on valve, and the locks popped loose and fell on the bench. Flipped the head back over, and dumped of the spring and retainer and dropped out the valve. No Compressor at all!!!!!! Sprayed the rest of the locks with wd-40, and had all 6 valves out the same way in 20 minutes. These little toy engines are a kick to work on. The canadian T3 MPFI head is now in the parts dip tank getting very clean. Spark plug socket won't work for reassembly. Maybe my O2 socket will.... Or maybe I'll carve up an old socket for windows to get the locks in. The locks sure are tiny. Should I put double springs on it and rev 10 grand?????? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Dec 22 2008, 07:31 PM Post #13 |
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Hi-Tech Redneck
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Two people can install these springs. Have an assistant pop the retainers in while you push down evenly with your thumbs. |
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| scooby | Jul 23 2009, 02:09 PM Post #14 |
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New Member
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Hey johnny, those uhh metal "tubes" that stick out from opposite ends of the block, My car doesn't seem to have those. Did all g10's have those? I have two that stick out from the head, but not from the block, and they don't seem removable. I guess that could be part of my coolant burning problem. |
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| metrojoe | Jul 23 2009, 03:06 PM Post #15 |
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smokin'
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you need those to keep the head lined up |
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