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| Frame rust repair | |
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| Topic Started: Sep 15 2008, 10:14 PM (6,874 Views) | |
| Johnny Mullet | Sep 15 2008, 10:14 PM Post #1 |
Geo Whisperer
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This would also be similar to the older Metro models. The reason most Metro/Firefly/Swift models get scrapped is because of the notorious rust issue they have where the lower control arms mount to. I posted pics of how mine was getting pretty bad previously...................   This issue affect all years of this car even though the older models have a slightly different frame, the same "looped" unibody in the front is similar. After time, the frame will rot away to the point where the lower control arm will detach from the car and the wheel will end up kicking out and separating from the car causing loss of control or a crash or a grinding halt. First thing most people do is start grinding away the rust. This is a bad idea in my opinion, because it weakens the surrounding area and if you keep grinding, you will eventually be grinding away to nothing. I learned to simply go beyond the rust area at least 3-4 inches and as long as it's welded correctly, the new repair will hold all the stress and keep the rusted area from flexing and breaking away. I took a piece of scrap bar stock and cut a piece that would wrap around the front arm.............  I then welded that in place after forming it to fit with a hammer and a vise.............  I then cut another piece that was cut out for the side opening and made sure it contacted the new piece I just welded in....................   This piece was also welded to the rear arm to secure the mount. The important part of welding is to make sure the area is clean where you are welding to and to get a good burn. The weld must penetrate both sections and not look like rabbit turds when you are done. Don't be afraid to burn it in until both contact areas are melting together with the bead you are laying.  I then made a piece for the outside and welded it to the original piece and formed it to go with the contour of the inner fender area and painted it all with flat black paint........   I also repeated the same repair on the passenger side which was not so bad, but still got the same repair with a wrap around piece and both side braces.............   I am totally confident in this repair and should get a few years of service from it and even longer if I maintain the rust as best as possible. Scrap steel = $0.00 Total cost = $0.00 Labor time = 5-6 hours. |
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| metrojoe | Sep 16 2008, 08:52 PM Post #2 |
smokin'
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so you are a mechanic and a welder and a website guy. does it ever end. the repairs look pretty good but that was really rusty there |
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| mildwild61 | Oct 7 2008, 12:10 PM Post #3 |
New Member
  ![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)
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Do you have a drive thru window? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Oct 7 2008, 06:58 PM Post #4 |
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Geo Whisperer
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Mullet's Drive Thru Metro shop 
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| Johnny Mullet | Feb 24 2009, 09:53 PM Post #5 |
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Geo Whisperer
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Just inspected this repair since it's went through winter and all is well  I sprayed a mixture of diesel fuel and used motor oil all over those areas to keep the rust under control, but my fender lips are showing signs of rust and the paint is flaking away, so that will be another thread when the weather breaks. |
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| New2metros | Mar 8 2009, 12:17 PM Post #6 |
Member
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Do think it would be wise to weld on extra metal if not rusty yet? My metro got just one little hole in the one side. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Mar 8 2009, 12:34 PM Post #7 |
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Geo Whisperer
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Now is the time to fix it. That little hole will grow as that part of the car flexes. |
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| Cern | Jul 9 2010, 11:10 PM Post #8 |
a grog
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Coat the under body with oil, if best.. warm oil. The metal soaks it up and naturally repels moisture. |
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| l7productions | Jul 19 2010, 07:59 AM Post #9 |
First time owner, experienced learner
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Can anyone else confirm this? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jul 19 2010, 08:00 AM Post #10 |
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Geo Whisperer
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Undercar oiling is popular in my area. |
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| Rustman | Jul 19 2010, 06:19 PM Post #11 |
Elite Member
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Question: If you apply a little heat to the new weld, and the area around (not enough to make the metal red) and then apply oil, will the metal absorb more oil as it cools if you keep slathering it on, or will the oil just burn off, causing fire...gas tank explosion...loss of a perfectly good garage...etc? |
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| mcmancuso | Jul 19 2010, 06:57 PM Post #12 |
 
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keep the temperature of the metal below the flash point of the oil (not over ~450F) and you won't have any problems, go above 500 and you risk it bursting into flames, use an IR thermometer to check the temp if you're not sure. |
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| Rustman | Aug 14 2010, 07:46 PM Post #13 |
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Elite Member
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Thanks for the temp info, but that didn't quite answer my question. I wanted to know if adding heat to the equation would cause the metal to absorb more oil, vs. not adding heat would cause the metal to absorb less oil? |
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| BillHoo | Jan 14 2011, 04:03 PM Post #14 |
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I would think that the oil would form a thick, gummy layer and eventually hardened lacquer or tar. Kinda like seasoning a cast iron skillet. You put a layer of oil on it and put it in the oven for a few hours till it turns black. The oil get less viscous when heated and soaks into the pores of the metal easier. This essentially seals the metal from the outside air. Air is 20 percent oxygen. Oxygen + Iron = Rust On the flip side.... Oil that has lots of sulphur in it could bond with water and oxygen and form weak sulphuric acid which speeds up the chemical bonding of iron and oxygen forming rust. Chemists! Chime in! Edited by BillHoo, Jan 14 2011, 04:11 PM.
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| scacchia_ludus | Feb 24 2011, 06:51 PM Post #15 |
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Just joined the forum. Have the exact style of rust repair you have pictured. Use good steel and Mig onto the good metal beyond the rusted areas. My 95 is holding up fine. People joke about it being more welding rod than original metal. As a general rule the frame is inspected every few months as well as the rest of the body. A point is made to cover all new underbody metal with acid etch primer then undercoat. Being in Western Pennsylvania and driving high mileage every day 150 to 200. Heavy snow build up with dirt and salt are issues. The Geo is hosed off always to keep the salt issue at a minimum. This 95 is welded everywhere. Always new metal is installed. Body putty just as filler for looks. Nice job. |
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