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| Manual Trans Lubricant | |
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| Topic Started: Sep 24 2008, 08:38 PM (3,511 Views) | |
| Mr Murf 59 | Sep 24 2009, 10:36 AM Post #31 |
Looking like a lost Irish tourist
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It is the oil barrier that we are talking about here. The over priced SM is thinner. So the oil barrier between the Sync cone on the gear and the brass sync is thinner and a lighter oil. So it will shift better in cold clims. You can get the same thing out of a bargain brand light weight oil and prolong. But only if the unit is broken in. And no PTFE. They are solids. And I have run into a lot of problems with them. The friction mod was put in so the lined syncs in the NV4500s, 5600s, Chev Hm 290s, 5LM60s and the Ford ZF would work. It was so expensive in the old days at over 25 bucks a qrt and only available from the dealers. The put it in the late service update as the stock oil to pay for the cost of R&D. I have been watching this product for almost 20 years. It does work good. But I don't think it is worth the cost. |
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| starscream5000 | Sep 25 2009, 04:29 PM Post #32 |
AKA 95_G105spd
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Same think here! I bought 6 quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh at O-Reily's a few weeks back, $6.99/quart. |
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| dimetrodon | Sep 25 2009, 07:53 PM Post #33 |
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"I have been watching this product for almost 20 years." I am not sure which product that is you are talking about. Can you clarify? |
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| Mr Murf 59 | Sep 25 2009, 10:37 PM Post #34 |
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Looking like a lost Irish tourist
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The syncro mesh. In 88 when the Chevy 5LM60 5spd first came out that was the oil. And it was only avaiable from the dealers. It was over $25 a quart. It was the same for the Dodge NV4500s, the same exact oil. Just had a Dodge part # on it. The NVs have lined syncs too. and if you put the wrong stuff in the Dodges the 1/2 sncs would not work right. You would get a hell of a chatter. You could force the shift but it really shortend the life of the unit. It was the exact same thing for the Ford ZFs. Line sncs. Same chatter and hesitation. The cost for the RD was tremdous so the came up with the plan to make it there go to oil. And now it is only 1/4 the cost. But you can imagine a unit that takes 6 qrts @ $25 each. That is a lot just to service your unit. If I thought is was the good stuff for every unit. I would have sold it. If your unit has the lined syncs. It really is worth the cost. Hell even some of the units now are recommending ATF. Like the Ford Rangers, and F150 5spd M5R1 and the M5R2s. The book says ATF. It is better to run staight 30w motor oil. It is thicker and does not come out the vents as oil vapor. Ford has been putting 3 little rubber plugs in the shifter covers. The ATF heats up comes out and now you have 0 oil in your unit. You start up a steep grade, what little oil is in your unit runs to the back. Now all the work is being done in the front and pretty soon you either loose all the gears, or you are stuck in 4th. Meaning you have melted the primary drive, which powers all the gears in a conventional unit. |
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| dimetrodon | Sep 26 2009, 12:02 PM Post #35 |
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OK. You mentioned something called "prolong" and I was wondering of that was the product you were talking about. I use the Synchromesh and it helps, but it is still necessary to shift into second gear more slowly than the other gears. |
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| Mr Murf 59 | Oct 4 2009, 12:48 AM Post #36 |
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Looking like a lost Irish tourist
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The slow shift on your syncro is trying to tell you its tired. Second is the one that takes all the abuse. In first gear most times we are sitting still. Then you drop the hammer and wind it up really tight and yanker into second gear. Everytime it grinds or hesitates, skips, or falls through. It removes a little metal from the engagement teeth. On it and the slidder that engages it. And those little metal particles are now running around in your trans fluid. Third gear is the nest one for abuse. I am not sure what the condition of your gears this unit. No one can look in from the outside and tell you the condition inside. But an educated guess can get close. When they start to not want to stay in gear. Say second, it generally means to much metal has been removed and it has nothing to lock into. It can also indicate a worn or failed bearing. Remember, the bearings and retainer that hold them mean they are fixed positions. If a bearing is badly worn. That shaft is now moving. And the forks and rails are also fixed and can't move to compensate for the wear. Prolong has no solids in it. No PTFEs. Which are solids. I don't know what happend to it. Prolong used to have a vid. They put it in like a 6cly Granada. Ran it for a little bit. Then drained the oil. Pulled the oil pan, and then went out on the Daytona track hot lapping. They tore the engine down after being run with no oil or even a pan. There was nothing wrong with the bearings. It is good stuff. In the near future yank your trans out and have a look at second gear. There is now a really good thread here showing just how to split the cases. It appears to be a very early MV2 unit. But has only minor changes from the late MV3s. One of the big improvements in our is a larger second synchro. If you get it apart and have Qs PM PM me. We will look at your pics to see what is good and what is not. |
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| Dallas | Oct 4 2009, 01:34 PM Post #37 |
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I guess I dont see a new updated fsm that calls for synchromesh.my bad. just seems weird they design it to run on 90weight and when synchromesh comes out later, they radically change what should be used in there. theres a huge difference between gear oil and synchromesh. just baffles me I guess |
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| Woodie | Oct 5 2009, 05:54 AM Post #38 |
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There's no "having a look". If you go through the process of splitting the case, do a full rebuild. |
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| Metro Fanatic | Jan 2 2010, 10:22 PM Post #39 |
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Gents, Aside from just maintaining the vehicle and prolonging these little beauties, are there any Fuel Efficiency gains to be realized by switching to a synchro oil? I'm thinking of Pennzoil at my next oil change (in 2 days). Thanks |
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| Dallas | Jan 3 2010, 12:08 AM Post #40 |
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they say that synchromesh has less turning resistance and would be the only one thatll come up if you are talking economy |
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| sooleman | Jan 18 2010, 08:39 PM Post #41 |
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Fresh Fish
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
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Prolong was an infomercial..false claims |
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| BryanTheGhostRider | Mar 7 2010, 06:17 AM Post #42 |
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I switche with syncromesh. Will my 1st and 2nd come back? I can get into them, but its a bit rough unless im stopped. Is there some way to adjust the shifter nobb? |
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| Woodie | Mar 7 2010, 07:59 AM Post #43 |
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If your first + second problems are caused by worn synchros, Synchromesh might help, it can't do any magic if they're worn out though. If it seems easier when the transmission is fully warm, the Synchromesh will help. Synchromesh will give you better fuel economy, and the added bonus is, it doesn't stink like normal gear lube. There are no adjustments to the shifter, but the linkage is known to get sloppy from bushing deterioration, or stiff from the bolts rusting inside the sleeves, either one can cause shifting problems. Also a clutch that doesn't disconnect the engine and transmission completely will cause drag inside the transmission making it hard to get into gear. |
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| BraveHeartCalif | May 27 2010, 05:46 PM Post #44 |
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New Member
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I was told by my parts supplier that the 03 geo metro xfi man tranny takes 1.6 quarts. Can anyone verify this? Thanks |
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| starscream5000 | May 27 2010, 06:38 PM Post #45 |
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AKA 95_G105spd
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I need me one of those '03 metro XFi's! It's 2.5 quarts. Edited by starscream5000, May 27 2010, 06:38 PM.
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