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| control arm rust; self explanatory | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 30 2008, 12:06 AM (3,595 Views) | |
| metroschultz | Oct 30 2008, 12:06 AM Post #1 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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![]() ![]() You think you got troubles. Look at this poor guys rust hole in the control arms He lives in Michigan maybe you can buy his car for parts. I found this through Edmonds.com Schultz |
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| Johnny Mullet | Oct 30 2008, 05:43 AM Post #2 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Holy shit! I think I could fix it
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| metroschultz | Oct 30 2008, 08:35 AM Post #3 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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I know you could, I left him a message, told him to get here and get advice for repair. Maybe he'll show up, maybe not. I think that's the good side, he said the wheel had cocked out and it was not drivable now. S. |
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| bennie442 | Oct 30 2008, 02:37 PM Post #4 |
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Every time someone posts pictures like that, I thank my lucky stars that I live down in Dixie. Although, come to think about it, instead of rust, we got tornadoes! |
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| bbjsw10 | Oct 30 2008, 09:13 PM Post #5 |
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What rust?
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| Will | Oct 30 2008, 09:26 PM Post #6 |
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Victory is mine!!!!
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Amen, brother!!!
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| woodman | Oct 31 2008, 09:01 AM Post #7 |
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Thi would be ausome if someone would pre-fab weld-on components for these rust-buckets. |
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| Hacksaw | Oct 31 2008, 09:56 AM Post #8 |
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Disciple of Johnny Mullet
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We were talking about that at GeoPalooza back in September...Johnny Mullet had some gears turning as I recall. Last week I was talking with a Cad Designer about it after looking at the Metro he had for sale. Sounded like he wanted to be paid for his work but said it would be a piece of cake to design. Turning blueprints into stamped metal would be a huge expense as well, I would imagine... Hacksaw. |
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| bbjsw10 | Oct 31 2008, 05:31 PM Post #9 |
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That would be nice, but a lot of us Metro owners are DIYer's as well. I know if it cost too much I would just look at the picture of theirs and make it myself. |
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| drivinalunchbox | Nov 9 2008, 04:15 AM Post #10 |
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old time wrench turner
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My other car is a 1967 Checker, which is also prone to rust. The Checker community has looked into rust repair panels and found that body panels sell well. However structural pieces should not be manufactured and sold by anyone who doesn't want to carry the product liability insurance. You always have the doofus who installs your panels with no skill and poor preparation, then crashes his car and his lawyer blames your panel. Or worse yet, blames you for causing this guy to try to repair an obviously totaled car. This last would not be hard to prove to a jury of "average" people. You and I are not average people and we will fix where "average" is supposed to buy a new car. When fixing rust just do it only if you are comfortable with your welding skills or find a friend who is. |
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| Hacksaw | Nov 9 2008, 10:03 PM Post #11 |
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Disciple of Johnny Mullet
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And that's the bottom line in a nutshell...wise words! Hacksaw. |
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| shanksyamaha | Nov 22 2008, 01:32 AM Post #12 |
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New Member
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Thats a pretty bad one. I have had one that was not as bad as that fall apart and I have seen one just as bad or worse that was still holding up. It was totally disconnected from the car but it was still straight and drivable. I had a welding shop fix one that I had that was nearly as bad as that. For $400 they did a nice job, I cant weld or I would have done it myself, thats one skill I constantly wish I would have picked up |
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| woodman | Nov 22 2008, 07:24 AM Post #13 |
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Make cardboard templates and trace patterns to paper and distribute the prints to Metro Forum junkies. Anyone on this forum qualified to do that??? Johnny (Metro) M. |
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| dimetrodon | Dec 14 2008, 04:00 PM Post #14 |
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Hello Metro forums, I spent last weekend doing a weld-repair on my 1992 Metro - one of the two that I own. The left front control arm was beginning to drift and float as a rust line formed around about 270 degrees of the attachment plane between the stamped bottom plate and the formed upright sheet-metal portion. I welded a bunch new material to the thick, flat piece that forms the pivot for the control arm. Then I connected the new pieces to the intact upper portions of the body. There were some areas that I could not easily reach during my repair attempt with my grinding and welding tools - namely the areas on the tire-side of the split zone. But after cleaning out the interior of the cavity, getting the front and inside portions of the split zone patched, and putting new metal on top of the old metal, I RTV'd all of the holes, and sprayed over the whole area with high-quality undercoating compound. I have about a thousand miles on the repairs and so far they are holding well. However, I have decided to go one step further with this repair. Since the thick steel bar at the bottom has two, large bolts reaching up into the hollow cavity, I thought I would further stabilize the structure by mixing and pouring a high-strength, shock-resistant epoxy into the interior of the cavity after sealing off all possible openings through which it might otherwise leak out. I have selected 3M 2216 epoxy since I have a lot of experience with it. It is not my expectation that the epoxy will actually, strongly adhere to all the interior surfaces. What it will do though, is surround the large studs and fill the space between them and all of the intact sheet metal, and repaired sheet metal that I installed last week. I think that filling the cavity with the epoxy will add enough additional strength that the repair will last a lot longer than it would otherwise. One problem with this approach is that 2216 costs about $150 per quart. So it is not cheap. Cheers to all DIY'ers. |
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| jeff | Jan 27 2009, 06:22 PM Post #15 |
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Folks if you know your welding capabilities this isn't all that much. Yes you don't want it to break, but it is on the dirty side. Mine might look ugly as a mud fence, but they have held. From the past I can tell you my 2then teenage boys couldn't break the vehicles I've repaired. The reason most shops will not do these repairs are LIABILITY. I love rusty running Geos! |
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