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| Is It Worth It?; keep it or scrap it | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 25 2016, 05:45 AM (1,580 Views) | |
| MichaelSAlford | Dec 30 2016, 04:17 PM Post #31 |
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Short of checking the codes, we have done everything in that flow chart. The code reader I have doesn't fit the connection on the GEO, maybe some sort of adapter? Either way, we have no spark coming out of the coil pack and we have replaced the coil pack. Sigh.... |
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| ptcapboy | Dec 30 2016, 05:19 PM Post #32 |
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don't need a code reader on the 95 all you need in a spare fuse-put the spare fuse in the raised area to the left or right (can't remember which) on the inside fusebox, turn the key to on and count the flashes on the check engine light |
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| MichaelSAlford | Dec 30 2016, 11:22 PM Post #33 |
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For real? |
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| freegeo | Dec 31 2016, 01:14 AM Post #34 |
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Yes you only need to put a fuse in the diagnostic slot in the junction block. Click on the link and look in section 6E2-A1 ENGINE COMPONENTS WIRING DIAGRAMS DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS. Procedure starts on page 8 http://geometroforum.com/topic/5044844/1/#new |
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| sphenicie | Dec 31 2016, 07:02 AM Post #35 |
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two questions; 1) coil pack??? Ummm, please define, I have had 3, 95's, all had a standard coil. 2) What wires were cut by your helpful relative? I would start looking here. Odds are that if you are not getting a CEL on the dash you wont pull a code. If you ran that trans while totally dry (or close), I would not waste any time reinstalling it........unless, of course, you just need some practice. |
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| MichaelSAlford | Jan 1 2017, 10:58 PM Post #36 |
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1) Yeah, I guess technically its called an ignition coil. Black box thingy mounted to the firewall with a plug wire connecting it to the distributor. 2) The only cut wires (as far as I can see) that are still unrepaired are the wires for the EGR sensor and the wires for the thermostat. As far as I know, neither one of them would keep it from starting. Unfortunately he isn't 100% sure what he did and did not cut. Yeah the transmission issue is sort of odd. Ran like a top for years. Immediately after the engine swap (within a day or three) it started shuddering and shaking going down the road, like it was stuck between gears. We hauled it to the relatives house and then it wouldn't go into gear.The helpful relative pulled the engine and transmission back out (cutting wires along the way) and found no oil in the tranny. No idea how long it was like that. Don't know if it leaked out or what. On a lark, we put oil in it and the gears appear to turn freely with no grinding or significant resistance. So the helpful relative put it all back together. The 'plan' has been to get it up off the ground, start it, and run through all the gears to see if the transmission is shot or not. If the transmission is shot, then the hard decisions must be made. But of course now it wont start. Edited by MichaelSAlford, Jan 1 2017, 11:04 PM.
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| MichaelSAlford | Jan 2 2017, 10:06 AM Post #37 |
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I put my fuse in the diagnostic slot and it flashes 14, which according to my Haynes manual means I have a coolant temperature issue. What??? Doesn't seem like that would keep it from starting even if it were true, which as far as I can tell it is not. |
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| Car Nut | Jan 2 2017, 10:33 AM Post #38 |
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You said earlier that the wires going to your thermostat were still cut. Maybe that's got something to do with your coolant code. Temp sensor wire perhaps. Have you checked the wires that should be bolted to the back of the intake? They are in place, and not cut anywhere, right? They cause major issues if not hooked up.
Edited by Car Nut, Jan 2 2017, 10:36 AM.
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| MichaelSAlford | Jan 2 2017, 01:26 PM Post #39 |
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I misspoke earlier. Thermostat wires are reattached. No change. And the ground wires that bolt to the back of the intake are good. No start.
Edited by MichaelSAlford, Jan 2 2017, 01:28 PM.
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