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Running rough, where to start
Topic Started: Nov 5 2016, 05:53 PM (2,727 Views)
Crvett69


Also make sure the rotor is on way its supposed to go, they can be forced on 180 degrees out
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nourishablegecko
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It was having an issue going on when I had the cam and head out, and then I took it apart and slid it in the easier way. It should be in correctly now, do the pictures show that it's not lined up? I have the white dot facing up and the distributor rotor is at the top as well
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Crvett69


Take the dist rotor off and see if it will go on 180% different
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nourishablegecko
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Okay, I'll try that. When I pulled my belts, I disconnected my AC pulley and belt. Could that cause an issue as well?
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nourishablegecko
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At this point, if anyone has any suggestions I'll give it a shot. Should I try starting with my old lifters? Could the new ones be sticking?
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ptcapboy


nourishablegecko
Nov 8 2016, 07:41 PM
Alright, I made the decision to purchase a rebuilt head off eBay that uses my own lifters and camshaft, along with all new seals, head bolts, timing kit, and a few other goodies. I have yet to decide whether or not I will touch the bottom end. Based on the pictures and numbers, what are the odds I can just replace the rings without honing? The cylinder walls looked to be extremely clean and cross-hatched. Do I have to hone? I'm a little nervous to do that. Let me know what I can do. I want to build a geo that can take me across the state, without hesitation, time and time again and I'm willing to put in the work to do it.
I always buy the rebuilt head with the camshaft and lifters installed-for an extra 20 bucks it is a lot less hassle-
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nourishablegecko
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Well.. I think I found at least one problem...
:cheers

Think this would throw it off enough to backfire? Lifters are soaking now...
Edited by nourishablegecko, Feb 16 2017, 09:20 PM.
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Crvett69


i bet it was put in 180 degrees out. need to get another distributor and put it in the opposite direction that you took this one out
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nourishablegecko
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redid the timing (yet again), put it all back together, and... IT STARTED!

I'm actually beyond ecstatic right now, I seriously can't believe it worked. Only issues are:

Alternator belt is squealing (guessing it's not tight enough? Although I put it pretty damn tight, how can I check this?)

Timing belt and crank pulley shakes quite a bit, and the belt looks like it has too much slack. How can I get the belt tighter using the tensioner, and how tight should it really be? I was having a hard time getting it to actually be any tighter with the tensioner.

Small oil leak by the camshaft, guessing it's the cam seal? Or part of the valve cover seal? Not entirely sure to be honest

I have to thank everyone for your help, I seriously could not have done this without you guys. :cheers You're all some pretty damn amazing people, and I will absolutely be spending a lot more time on this forum and will keep learning.
Edited by nourishablegecko, Feb 16 2017, 09:20 PM.
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freegeo
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Do you have a factory service manual or any manual that has torque specs and procedures in it? If not you should look into getting one. It would help you get more familiar with your car.
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nourishablegecko
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I actually do have the FSM and torqued the bolts to the given numbers, but the belt still seems loose. I think I need to replace the alternator belt (it looked to be in good condition and didn't come in the kit I bought, so I didn't yet) and I need to understand how the tensioner works. Right now I just bolted it in but how does it attach to the metal bracket with the spring on it? Does the spring actually do anything?
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Congratulations on getting it running! :congrats

Sounds like some fine tuning, and leak management, is the next step. :news
Quote:
 
Timing belt...should it really be?

Here's a quick reference that I made a while ago.........................



Thanks for keeping us posted. ^o) You're doing great! :cheers
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freegeo
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nourishablegecko
Nov 15 2016, 12:13 PM
I actually do have the FSM and torqued the bolts to the given numbers, but the belt still seems loose. I think I need to replace the alternator belt (it looked to be in good condition and didn't come in the kit I bought, so I didn't yet) and I need to understand how the tensioner works. Right now I just bolted it in but how does it attach to the metal bracket with the spring on it? Does the spring actually do anything?
The spring on the tensioner is all the tension the timing belt needs.

What did you mean when you said the crank pulley (the one that the alterantor and AC belts ride on?) was wobbling?
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nourishablegecko
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Alright, so here's what the belts sound like.

https://youtu.be/DgOtakdiNSE

Is that too much play in the belts? And that squealing is definitely the alternator belt, correct?
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ptcapboy


for the timing belt tension I go by if you can twist the belt 90 degrees halfway between the 2 sprockets foward side towards the radiator it's about right-
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