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Running rough, where to start
Topic Started: Nov 5 2016, 05:53 PM (2,725 Views)
nourishablegecko
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So it should be pretty loose then? And it won't skip a tooth like that?
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ptcapboy


maybe you're thinking the timing belt tension is supposed to be like the alternator belt tension-the answer to that is no-
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nourishablegecko
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Well I know it should have some play I just wasn't sure how much is acceptable without risk of jumping a tooth. Does it look like it's tensioned good in the video that I posted? And I should pretty much make the alternator belt as tight as I can (with a new belt)?
Edited by nourishablegecko, Nov 15 2016, 06:11 PM.
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

That belt is way too loose. It looks to me like you haven't quite got the tensioner right. It can be tricky, you need the spring connected to make the tension. Also, if the balancer is as screwy as it looks, maybe you didn't get the crank timing gear exactly straight? there is an alignment pin that has to be keyed into place or it will sit sideways like that.

To tighten the alternator belt, you need to put a pry bar between the alternator and the block and hold it at tension while you tighten down the top adjuster bolt on the alternator. If you try to drive it in that shape, you are going to destroy one or both of your belts.
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nourishablegecko
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I have the crank timing gear on the alignment pin, I think I have to play with the tensioner since I really only bolted it on and didn't tweak it as much as I know it needs to be. I haven't driven the car at all yet; once I heard that belt noise I shut her down and came here for advice.
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ptcapboy


did you remove the crank gear to replace the seal or did you leave it in place and not replace the seal? I ask because it's easy to use the wrong termiology when talking about the pulley vs the sprocket-if you didn't remove the sprocket maybe you didn't put your pulley over the little dimple on the sprocket when installing it-if you did replace the seal maybe the sprocket was reinstalled wrong or the bolt is loose-
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ptcapboy


as for the tensioner you may have to remove it and make sure the tab on the tensioner plate goes into the hole in the back of the tensioner-it's easy for it to slip out while you're trying to tighten the tensioner-I try to hold the tensioner up against the cylinder head while I tighten the bolt which helps prevent this-after the tensioner is installed you should be able to see it move while you move the tensioner plate when the main tensioner bolt is slightly loosened from finger tight-
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Woodie
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Timing belt doesn't need to be tight, but it shouldn't be flopping around that much. If the pulley/sprocket down at the bottom is wobbling at all, something isn't right and it needs to come apart to find out what. If the pulley/sprocket down at the bottom is running straight and true, then your belt is just too loose. The little wimpy spring on the tensioner should be able to put enough tension on the belt, doesn't need to be tight, but get that flop out of it.

Alternator belt, on the other hand, needs to be wicked tight.


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nourishablegecko
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Okay, tightened the timing belt tensioner today along with a new alternator belt and more tension on the alternator belt. It sounds much, much better, but I think I'm gonna have to get the alternator belt just a little bit tighter, it's still noisy. The crank sprocket also shakes a little bit still, but I'm not sure how much is normal. It's definitely on the little guide pin, and cranked down pretty damn tight, so I'm not sure what's a normal amount of movement.

Also, the exhaust manifold is smoking, like a lot. Pretty sure it's probably the PB blaster I had to use on the bolts to free them, along with some of the new gasket? Not sure, just hoping it stops soon because I was a little bit worried.

No warning lights on the dash, topped the oil, topped the coolant, and she's running so much better than before. Anything else I should pay attention to?
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freegeo
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Watch your fluid levels real close for the next week or so. Make sure your getting any leaks.
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nourishablegecko
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I have a very slow leak right by the camshaft; could this be the valve cover or the camshaft seal?
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freegeo
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nourishablegecko
Nov 16 2016, 10:39 PM
I have a very slow leak right by the camshaft; could this be the valve cover or the camshaft seal?
Could be either. Clean it the best you can and see which one it is.
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ptcapboy


there should be no movement on the bottom pulley and sprocket at all-since you say the pulley is tight to the sprocket and in the nipple I would check the large bolt which holds the sprocket to the crankshaft and make sure it is tight-if it is and you still have movement you'll have to remove the crank sprocket and check the woodruff key and keyway-
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