Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Another "loss of power" thread; But this one's mine ;)
Topic Started: Nov 20 2016, 01:04 PM (857 Views)
scratchpaddy
Member Avatar
Not so fast

I just found this thread. I didn't realize I was nearly quoting myredvert in my last post:

The screw(s) "that shall not be touched"

So, there is no procedure for setting the throttle stop screw? Wonderful. No wonder I couldn't find it. :banghead I'll put the TPS back where it was (the screws on it looked pristine), then adjust the throttle stop screw to match.

Hard to believe it's been so out of whack all this time. Everything it's been doing for years, has been wrong! ALL WRONG!!
:ahh
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


I was referring to the tps check and adjustment. If you need to know where to find it in the fsm let me know.
Edited by freegeo, Nov 23 2016, 10:57 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
scratchpaddy
Member Avatar
Not so fast

I did find the TPS procedure. Adjusting it according to the FSM procedure is what made the idle go nuts, since the reference, the idle stop screw, was out of whack.

It turns out the TPS was messed with as well. When I put the TPS back to where it was before, I had to back the stop screw almost all the way back to get the TPS to read 1.0V. The car actually started and idled after I did this, strangely. There's no way the stop screw is supposed to be that far back, so I messed with it a couple more times until I was satisfied with the idle.

In this thread, one member measured that all the un-tampered stop screws he could find in the junkyard, and they were all 1/8" out. Once I was satisfied and measured mine, it was also 1/8" out. Works for me. :rocker

Before, the throttle was always resting on the stop screw, and the computer never considered it to be at "idle," so the ISC never did anything. Changing the timing directly affected the idle speed, and turning on the A/C dropped the idle quite a bit. Now, the idle bounces right back up when I turn on the A/C. I had timed the ignition to 6° before this, but when I checked it after fixing the TPS, it was right at 0° instead. I bumped it back up to 6°.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
scratchpaddy
Member Avatar
Not so fast

Now that the TPS detour is over, I'm not sure the problem I started this thread for has been fixed. Once, starting the engine right after fixing the TPS, the idle started to drop again, but instead of dying, the ISC bumped up the throttle to compensate. The engine chugged, and vacuum plummeted, but the RPM's stayed steady. Fuel supply in the throttle body looked consistent. After a few seconds, it returned to normal. I took it for a 10-mile test drive, mixed city and interstate, and it drove at least as well as it ever has.

I'll have to keep driving it to see if it keeps acting up. At least the ISC won't let it stall anymore. :dunno
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cwatkin


I have been there, done that on this one! I bought a car and the TPS had been molested so that was a pain to get back in position as the throttle stop screw had also been molested..

Than there was the issue with the intermittent running issues. It would start great and then run like crap and die after about 30 seconds of running. It would usually smooth out after it warmed up but the problem was more of an issue on cold damp days. I lived with it for a while while trying some small fixes and then it became so bad that the car would smell like a two stroke boat motor all while spitting and popping from time to time.

After dealing with this for months, it turned out to be a 10 minute fix. I cleaned all the grounds really well and the problem went away and never came back. CLEAN YOUR GROUNDS! These include the ones on the back of the throttle body, distributor, firewall, etc. I removed the connectors and cleaned everything with fine steel wool or sandpaper. I then wiped down with carb cleaner until no dirt came off on a white paper towel. I then coated with silicone grease and re-assembled.

Conor
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
scratchpaddy
Member Avatar
Not so fast

I did clean all the grounds a few months ago, including the one on the back of the throttle body. New battery terminal clamps, too. I'm driving it to Wickenburg tomorrow (90 miles away), so I'll get a better idea of how the car's acting now.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cwatkin


I seem to remember a thread about this a while back where NOTHING would solve the problem. It did fine on compression tests but something was wrong.

It turned out that the valves or lifters were sticking intermittently and when the head was redone the problem went away. The lifters and valves can stick on these as well and wonder if that is what it is.

What oil are you using? You might try the Mobil 1 0W40 and see what happens. 10W(anything) or thicker is too thick.

Conor
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply