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| broke; broken crank bolt | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 10 2016, 07:17 PM (821 Views) | |
| jessica03 | Dec 10 2016, 07:17 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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First thanks for forum. I got this 1998 metro lsi for free because bolt was broke in crank. Me a my dad get it running "my first car". Drove it for about three months and lost power on take off all the sudden. I try to trouble shoot the problem and see the pully wobble a bit. Took it apart and broken bolt in crank any suggestions on fix or is this a common problem. Any help would be appreciated on either problem, I'm sure we will get bolt out "we have done it before" |
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| dayle1960 | Dec 10 2016, 07:25 PM Post #2 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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So if the bolt has been sheered off within the engine then it will be tough to get it out. A normal crank bolt takes a lot of torque to unloosen it. I've had to use a five foot breaker bar before. You will have to pull the engine out of the bay, set the block within a non-moveable frame, use a tap to hollow out the bolt, and then maybe thread the inner portion of the nut and screw in a reverse thread bolt and try to pry the broke bolt out. Sounds like a big challenge to me. If you have accomplished this feat before, then my hat is off to you. Keep us informed of your progress. |
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| jessica03 | Dec 10 2016, 07:35 PM Post #3 |
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Fresh Fish
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Last time we used left handed drill bits. Started small and worked our way up until we could eaze it out. Not sure about this time maybe we just got lucky last time. |
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| dayle1960 | Dec 10 2016, 07:45 PM Post #4 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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On a virgin rehab the crank bolt will need a LOT of force to break it loose. If the crank bolt had been previously out of the block, then it should be a lot easier to unloosen. When the engine was originally manufactured the crank bolt had been torqued on with a torque wrench with about 500 ft/lb of pressure. When reinstalling most mechanics don't or cannot apply that much torque. |
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| jessica03 | Dec 10 2016, 08:10 PM Post #5 |
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Fresh Fish
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ok thanks for the info and reply. |
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| freegeo | Dec 11 2016, 03:29 AM Post #6 |
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What engine are you talking about? |
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| dayle1960 | Dec 11 2016, 04:17 AM Post #7 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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G10. I could be wrong about the 500 ft/lb but it sure does "feel" like that much when you are trying to unbolt it. |
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| sphenicie | Dec 11 2016, 06:18 AM Post #8 |
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Yea, could be! A 7/8" hardened structural bolt is only rated for 450-475 ft lb. Edited by sphenicie, Dec 11 2016, 06:19 AM.
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| sphenicie | Dec 11 2016, 06:28 AM Post #9 |
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Jessica03, it would help if you include more info.......engine, transmission, any other work done recently, anything that has been changed from stock, etc. I did not see the anything in your original post as to engine type. Any info you provide helps. "loss of power on take off" could be caused by a lot of issues. It is far better to go forward with educated analysis than just throw guesses at what the cause may be. A lot of folks just like to throw out guesses, but the best approach is to follow the diagnosis procedure outlined in the service manual. Edited by sphenicie, Dec 11 2016, 06:28 AM.
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| Woodie | Dec 11 2016, 06:51 AM Post #10 |
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98 LSI should have a G13BB 16V engine. Not that it makes any difference, the crank bolt is pretty much the same thing for all G engines. Only difference would be that a four cylinder has it dead up against the frame rail. The proper torque is 96 lbs/ft, it's glued in with permanent LockTite from the factory, heating it up with a torch dissolves the LockTite and then you're just fighting 96 lbs.ft plus stiction. Don't know why you would have two broken bolts on the same car, unless the woodruff key is missing, the bolt worked loose, and then the wobble broke it? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Dec 11 2016, 09:04 AM Post #11 |
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Fear the Mullet
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I have vids on YouTube on removing broken crank bolts but posting from my phone right now and can't find them at the moment. |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Dec 11 2016, 09:34 AM Post #12 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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I had my bolt break from the crankshaft, however it was the second bolt installed, not the original. Long story short, I was able to rehab my set up also a G13 (4 cyl.) using ALL of my engineering skill, without removing the engine or the crankshaft.... Start by drilling the broken bolt right down the center, first with a centerdrill to make sure you are in center of the bolt. Then follow it with a 3/8 drill, a left hand drill would be extraordinary albeit hard to come by... an Easy out product would work too. the bolt may not be that tight since the head is broken off there isn't actual torque on the leftover bolt threads. In frame it is not an easy access, however after removing the plastic inner fender well, AND lowering the engine a couple of inches by removing the front right motor mount and of course the wheel before that, you will be able to work the end of the crank to remove the broken stuff. Must lower the engine easy with a jack and block under the oil pan after removing the 2 14mm head motor mount bolts. then 5 ea. 8mm head bolts come out first to remove the pulley. Go to Marshall's or Collet bros. auto parts and get a new crank set (crank gear, bolt, key, pulley). 95-01 4 cyl metro with or without a/c will work. I haven't lived in Louisville for 20 years but I still visit and don't know if you can pick and pull your own parts at those yards. Hears the trick for keeping the engine from turning while drilling or tightening back up: take a 4 foot length of 1/4" nylon line and shove 2-3 foot into the number 1 plug hole while piston is down. Must be coming up on compression stroke... Valves must be closed. Or just remove the camshaft. Also want to take a tap (M12x1.25) matched to the new bolt and run it into the crankshaft. It must follow the old threads removing very little if any material. Make sure the keyway in the crankshaft is not totally compromised... if it is, then there is another potential problem that requires additional machine work. Let us know if this is something you and your dad are confident doing... Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Dec 11 2016, 09:40 AM.
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| freegeo | Dec 11 2016, 12:02 PM Post #13 |
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The 97 FSM shows 96 ft/lbs as the torque value. There is no thread locker applied to the crank bolt from the factory. Edited by freegeo, Dec 11 2016, 12:13 PM.
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| Johnny Mullet | Dec 11 2016, 04:13 PM Post #14 |
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Fear the Mullet
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tswMva54ep0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vl0hd4YFXAQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bED4v_ZaNg8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pRQUMY8BIE |
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| Woodie | Dec 12 2016, 05:49 AM Post #15 |
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I could have sworn there was a tech bulletin on this around '92 or so. They were coming loose (I know my XFI did, fixed under warranty with about 100K miles on it) so they started LockTiting them. |
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