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| Head gasket; Replaced gasket and head | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 11 2016, 12:43 PM (461 Views) | |
| mclovin_lucafer | Dec 11 2016, 12:43 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Hello all, just replaced the head and gasket on my 94 metro 993cc. Started it up and i have steam in the exhaust, water in the oil and water seeping from the head gasket seam. I drained the oil, drained the cooling system and re did the head bolt loosening/tightening sequence to the correct torque. Started it again and the water leak went away but the steam remains. Is there a specific brand of head gasket that might seal better than the generic one i bought? |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Dec 11 2016, 12:51 PM Post #2 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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any headgasket would work... I'm afraid though that once a leak is created under running condition it cannot be stopped by retorquing the headbolts... Start over and check the head and block for flatness with no warpage or cavitation. |
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| freegeo | Dec 11 2016, 01:09 PM Post #3 |
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Torque the bolts to the factory specs. |
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| David_uwi | Dec 11 2016, 01:41 PM Post #4 |
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New Member
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There's always steam in the exhaust (especially noticeable when cold). Removing the head will always do a bit of mixing of fluids so changing the water and oil was a good move. From bitter experience it is a good idea to check the head with a straight edge to make sure there are no low spots. If its not too bad fine "sand" paper can be used otherwise it's a machining job. I know it's frowned upon, but I always use a sealer (belt and braces approach). Again if you are having problems with the seal sod the torque specs on the bolts get them as tight as you can (without snapping them). Edited by David_uwi, Dec 11 2016, 01:44 PM.
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| myredvert | Dec 11 2016, 02:53 PM Post #5 |
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myredvert
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Why re-do this unless they were they not tightened correctly in the first place? As mentioned, it's more than likely not going to prevent future failure. If the gasket material is soaked with coolant, it will corrode the mating surfaces and cause (further) pitting and damage that can eventually lead to another failure. Did you use the correct sequence from the factory service manual? Also, the "correct torque" is only the correct torque if the bolts were oiled before installing and torquing them as specified in the factory instructions. It's more than just a "good idea," it's just one more correct step to follow in a long list of steps in the factory rebuilding instructions. Logical fallacy. This can't be done without actually snapping the bolt in order to know what the maximum torque was that didn't snap the bolt. And, what worked for one bolt won't necessarily be the same for the next, especially is they have been reused one (or more) times. Although "none" is best, the factory instructions allow for up to .002" distortion on the head surface. Earlier FSMs specify .0012" as a standard tolerance for the block, with a limit of .0024". In general, the best practice is to follow the factory instructions correctly, aka, "do it as right the first time." When money is an issue (as it often is), at the very least follow as many of the free or relatively inexpensive instructions as possible. |
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| mclovin_lucafer | Dec 11 2016, 02:56 PM Post #6 |
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New Member
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ok im going to get a new gasket and check the block and head for warping. Also, what are the steel roll pins that hold the head gasket in place on the block. Their are two of them and i bent one. I used a slightly smaller one as a replacement. Could that be a factor as well. |
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| ironman752 | Dec 11 2016, 03:11 PM Post #7 |
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Advanced Member
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ebay link
Edited by Metromightymouse, Dec 11 2016, 04:45 PM.
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| Woodie | Dec 12 2016, 04:44 AM Post #8 |
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Check head and block for flat surface. New gasket AND BOLTS. Torque to factory specs, NO MORE, NO LESS. |
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9:29 AM Jul 11