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| 99 Geo Metro, temperature overheated, Won't turn back on!; Overheated, won't start back up. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 22 2016, 12:56 AM (787 Views) | |
| GamersGodly | Dec 22 2016, 12:56 AM Post #1 |
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Okay, I bought this 99 Geo Metro for $250 2 weeks ago, it supposedly ran good, just needed a water pump gasket. 3 days ago, I finally got my first chance to work on it. Removed parts such as the serpentine belt pulleys, timing belt guard, timing belt, then water pump then replaced the gasket and put everything back together. I was really worried that I wouldn't get the timing correct as it was my first time doing it. However, the car started right up and purred. Tho, before I did my work on the car... When I removed the crankshaft pulley that the serpentine belt ran on.. The pulley made a nice groove mark into the timing belt guard. That was because it didn't have room and was too close to it. ( like that before I got it. ) now.. When I fixed everything, the timing belt guard was slightly in a new position.. Because the old owner fucking broke a lot of bolts everywhere in various places on various things. So... When I started the car up after fix, I could hear the crank shaft pulley creating a newer groove into the timing guard, and eventually started to smoke and over heated a little during my test drive. After it finish creating the groove, no smoke or overheating occurred for a solid 4 days after. So it stopped affecting the car and fixed itself. Now.. Day 5 of the car driving.. I started to notice that the temperature gauge was going over the half way mark towards high to overheat. It wasn't going all the way up but it definitely went up pretty good, like 3 quarters, then would drop back down, then go up, then go back down. Usually between stopping, or even riding in a lower gear like 3rd.. Various things. I was a little worried because it was running a little hotter then normal then drop to normal. Now on the way back home, the car redlined all the way up.. And because my brakes were bad because my caliper is grinding, it took me a little long to get pulled over, tho the car had shut off itself during the redline heat. Now, I let it cool down.. And it won't start back up. I looked for any leaking of coolant, or any oil.. And I don't see nothing. I looked inside the coolant to see if any oil was mixed it, nothing. Same with the oil from the dipstick. So what could be my problem? I can't get it started and it's stuck in a parking lot at a random church. Any ideas on what to start diagnosing would be great! I had the car put on a computer 2 weeks ago. I'll list them below as they could be a possible answer. I was thinking a thermostat due to the fluctuation of temperature, then thought it plugged shut when it simply over heated but it's not starting back up and I think it would if that was actually it. Please help! I'm homeless and this is all I got. Computer codes I received 2 weeks ago. ( might not be related to issue, cuz the car ran solid 4 days after fix. ) but here they are anyways. P0113 P0118 P0400 P0400 Mil on Monitor 2 Inc Catylst Evap 6 Ready Misfire Fuel Comp 02 Snsr 02 Htr EGR Again this is a 99 Geo Metro Lsi 5 speed 3 cylinder. Sorry for the long wall of text, just trying to be descriptive to ensure best chance of being fixed. |
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| ptcapboy | Dec 22 2016, 02:51 AM Post #2 |
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I wouldn't worry too much about the belt guard they all seem to wear there and like you say the problem fixed itself-as for the overheating I think the chances are pretty good when you changed the gasket you were unable to fill the cooling system all the way because of air pockets in the system-whenever I refill the system I have to run it a little. let it cool and recheck the level after 15 minutes or so and fill to the top-I have to do that 3 or 4 times before it is finally full-it sounds like you were able to shut if off relatively quickly after you noticed the high gauge (within 30 seconds or so?) so I doubt you did any engine damage-I had problems with a leaky head gasket causing steam coming out of my tailpipe at a gas station at 3 am when I still had 40 miles to go and my gauge never left the normal range and it was hot enough to warp the block (the gauge doesn't do it's job when there is air in the lines) maybe your no start condition is related to the timing belt tensioner coming loose or the belt skipping a tooth, I would remove the cover again and see if you see anything wrong-and you didn't remove the crank sprocket right? if everything checks out I would check the compression to see if maybe you did do some damage- |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 22 2016, 03:05 AM Post #3 |
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The first thing I did was check the coolant levels and the oil in the car, was full all the way exactly how I filled it a few days ago.. After I fixed the water pump, as I was reassembling everything, coolant was still dripping from something, but once I finished reassembling, it stopped fully. I filled up the radiator, and it automatically filled up the resovoir container. I burped it by squeezing the hose a few times, and took the rad cap off a few minutes of running. Now the timing belt, no I did not remove the crankshaft sprocket. It was my first timing belt change ever, but if it was off... Wouldn't it run like shit? But if the belt skipped wouldn't it fuck my engine? I'm no mechanic by any means lol. How do I check compression. I'm so broke, I can't afford to pay for gaskets because I need to Check things lol. Also, I never shut it off myself, when it redlined, the car shut off itself. And because of my shit brakes and caliper grinding, it took me a little to come to a complete stop. The car ran fine for 3 days... Already slammed 300-400 miles on it. The car has yet to leak anything so far now. Note: when I got the car, it had troubles starting... Started rough basically. Since I did my water pump replacement.. And reassembled everything, the car starts up quick as hell and purs now. Im not so sure the timing belt skipped, as I said it was fluctuating temp about a hour before this happened, and then boom. It went fucking awol. But I will check it anyways after I tow it to my house. Edited by GamersGodly, Dec 22 2016, 03:16 AM.
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| Woodie | Dec 22 2016, 07:29 AM Post #4 |
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If the timing belt was off a tooth it would run poorly. This is NOT an interference engine, so a broken or badly off timing belt will not destroy the engine. But running an overheating engine until it just stops could absolutely destroy an engine. That part scares me. |
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| ptcapboy | Dec 22 2016, 03:17 PM Post #5 |
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maybe you can borrow a compression tester at an auto parts store-there is an FSM procedure but the way I do it is-mark and remove wires from plugs, remove spark plugs and set down in order, disconnect coil wire, remove fuel pump relay, hold accellerator to floor, screw in tester in spark plug hole, if by yourself set tester carefully down and crank car 5-10 seconds or so-take reading-push little button on tester to expell air-repeat-if you want to check for bad rings add a little engine oil to each cylinder and see if the compression goes up-if so, bad rings- |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 22 2016, 03:28 PM Post #6 |
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I don't know if I want this car anymore. It ran outta gas. That's all it was! Put 2-3 gallons in fired right up. It had a "half tank" !!!! How... Lmao. And the overheat? This car got a mind of its own. |
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| Crvett69 | Dec 22 2016, 04:09 PM Post #7 |
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might consider replacing the thermostat if it does the weird overheat again. they do fail/wear out |
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| myredvert | Dec 22 2016, 05:22 PM Post #8 |
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myredvert
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I wouldn't be so dismissive of the repeated overheating indications following a cooling system issue/repair. It's doubtful that running out of gas caused the overheat indications, and it sure didn't cause the huge list of DTCs you already knew it had. If it did overheat as you described, any attempt at an inexpensive repair is likely to have a high probability of re-failure. Between the impressive list of DTCs it set and theoverheating, I would seriously consider finding someone else who will believe that all it needs is a water pump gasket and get as much money out of it before you get sucked down a black hole money pit or worse, if it turns out the engine has been seriously damaged from it. |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 22 2016, 05:44 PM Post #9 |
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Yeah redvert, I simply cannot just ignore the fact that it did over heat and before that, fluctuate in temperatures.. So with that being said, it's weird that my gas just happened to run out at the same time of overheating. At least it is running now tho, and I'm gonna look Into replacing the thermostat just in case. And I know there is some odds and ends I need to eventually replace. But. If I wanted to, I could squeeze $800 outta the car easy right now as its inspected for almost a full year.. And it's a running 5 speed car. Around here in Pennsylvania a running car easily goes for $500-$900 P.O.S or not. |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 23 2016, 02:23 AM Post #10 |
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Okay. So a little update, it overheated again, tho this time not redlined, just... Overheated a little but... Shut off in the middle of driving it. Held the clutch in and it popped started back up.. Made it home. Won't start tonight. Most likely will again in the morning. So in other words, something is making it shut off.. And overheat a little. |
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| myredvert | Dec 23 2016, 07:42 AM Post #11 |
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myredvert
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Once the system overheats it gets air in it. When air pockets go through or get trapped in the thermostat housing where your coolant temperature sending unit is, the gauge will indicate quite a bit lower than the actual coolant temperature. Have you warmed it up with the radiator cap off until the gauge is roughly in the middle and observed coolant flow to verify the water pump is working and the thermostat opens? Does your radiator fan run for several seconds then shut off? Is your oil serviced at the proper level? The good news/bad news is that every time you drive the car until it overheats and shuts off, you are getting closer and closer to never having an overheating problem again. If you don't stop driving the car and diagnose why its overheating ASAP, you are going to cause damage that will become increasingly costly to repair, if it hasn't happened already. These engines don't survive overheating well, let alone repeated overheating. |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 23 2016, 09:50 PM Post #12 |
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I haven't been driving it since I took it home from the church parking lot when it died the first time. Tho, on the way getting home is when it slightly overheated the 2nd time. It didn't fully overheat. Just ran a little over normal temp and fluctuated back down. Currently the car isn't starting. There's more to the issue of the overheating, something is shutting the car off even when it's not over heating. Because currently again it will not start, I'm gonna investigate into the TB injectors soon and some sensors. If I can get the car running I will verify the coolant is flowing to check the thermostat and water pump. Yes, the oil is up to the full mark if that's what you are asking? Also, at one point of driving, I did hear the radiator fan come on and turn off.. ( was at a idle and popped hood and heard it. ) I think I mis explained. It doesn't always "overheat and shut off". It'll shut off randomly at normal temperature. Note: after the day I did my water pump fix, the car drove fine for about 500 miles with no problems of overheating. And it's only overheated 2 times. One time being the day it redlined and shut off. And 2nd time on the way home, which when driving it, it ran pretty strong like a champ power wise but then it fluctuated in temp, it never got full hot, just slightly higher then normal. But, it shut off on me and pop started back up. I am thinking this shut off issue is separate from the coolant issues.. Edited by GamersGodly, Dec 23 2016, 09:55 PM.
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| freegeo | Dec 24 2016, 02:52 PM Post #13 |
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Have you checked the coolant system as myredvert suggested. Making sure all the air is out of the system and ensuring the coolant is at the proper level. |
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| GamersGodly | Dec 25 2016, 10:26 AM Post #14 |
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Okay so I got it running today. Today's start up consisted me of tighting up the brace at the battery terminal and now it's starting up no problem.. Figured out that by starting up several times failing to start, meanwhile another person was messing with the terminals and it half started then tightened it now it's flawless starting. When it started I warmed it up to regular temperature (5 or so minutes) in 47ish degrees out. I popped the radiator cap prior right after it started up to test and at first when cold it wasn't doing much then eventually as it warmed up it was shaking and looked to be possible bubbles but it wasn't spilling over. |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Dec 25 2016, 02:10 PM Post #15 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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make sure there is no leak in the overflow bottle line... confirm a good seal with the rad cap, and fill the rad to the neck. Cap it. Then fill the bottle to the line.... run it in the driveway till the radiator fan comes on, watching for pressure leaks and drips... also check the carpet inside for leaks from heater . then shut it down to cool... monitor the level in the coolant bottle. should be lowering... into the radiator. keep the coolant bottle near full. repeat once. monitor heat transfer as the engine warms up... by feeling all coolant hoses. |
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