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Radiator fan not working; I've replaced and tested several parts but seem to be at a dead end.
Topic Started: Apr 14 2017, 04:20 PM (233 Views)
jasecom89
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I am having trouble getting my radiator fan to work, I was hoping to get some advice on what to check next. I bought and installed a new relay, tested the fan itself (connected directly to the battery it runs perfectly), and bought a new BECK/ARNLEY 2011614 {#1435055, 1768050F10} radiator fan switch for my car and still not luck. I have a 93 manual 3 cyl hatchback. I have a sneaking suspicion that the fan switch I bought may not be the correct one, but I am not sure how to test this. I have a multimeter and can follow directions pretty well, so I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction!

Thanks,
jasecom89
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Azhule
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Has the cooling system been properly "burped" of any and all air pockets? Sometimes air bubbles will get stuck around the temp/fan sensor causing issues
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geogonfa
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Just my .02...ignition on, not running...disconnect the switch/sensor at the thermostat housing jump the two wires ( should be a Blk/wht wire and a blu wire ) and see if the fan comes on...
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jasecom89
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The system has been burped and flushed, and today I finally got around to jumping the wires and still no dice...
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freegeo
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Have you checked the fuse?
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sphenicie


jasecom89
Apr 19 2017, 11:40 PM
The system has been burped and flushed, and today I finally got around to jumping the wires and still no dice...
in your first post, you said you jumped to battery, "it runs perfectly".

What brings you to the conclusion that the fan is not working?

Are you over heating?

How long have you owned the car? (other new owners have thought the same thing)

The G10 is a very efficient engine. Depending on the ambient temp the fan may not need to come on.


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freegeo
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If you tried what geogonfa suggested and the fan didn't come on. Try checking cavity 2 ( White/Blue wire i believe)of the radiator fan relay connection and see if you have 12 volts to it. If not check the fuse for the fan (2nd picture, red arrow). It should be in a fuse holder attached or very close to the junction block under the dash.

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jasecom89
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sphenicie
Apr 20 2017, 06:20 AM
jasecom89
Apr 19 2017, 11:40 PM
The system has been burped and flushed, and today I finally got around to jumping the wires and still no dice...
in your first post, you said you jumped to battery, "it runs perfectly".

What brings you to the conclusion that the fan is not working?

Are you over heating?

How long have you owned the car? (other new owners have thought the same thing)

The G10 is a very efficient engine. Depending on the ambient temp the fan may not need to come on.


The engine overheats if the car stops moving for a period of time and the fan never engages at all under any circumstances. I am a pizza delivery driver and have owned this car for a year, driving close to 500 miles a week, and have found that if I drive regularly the fan is not needed but if I let the engine run without forward movement I will overheat in a short period of time. Normally that doesn't affect much but it makes for frustrations when sitting at a long red light or (for instance) burping the radiator properly. Due to this problem I have blown a crack in the radiator itself (before I realized the issue) and have it currently JB welded (which has held since I began carefully operating my vehicle with the aforementioned operation with constant or near constant movement). To wit, I don't think the fan is broken, but the current to it is.

I hope that provides clarity enough on the conclusions I have come to, and maybe brings more info to light that may have been necessary?
Edited by jasecom89, Apr 20 2017, 06:37 PM.
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geogonfa
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First...with the key on, engine off, check to see if the BLK/WHT wire at the switch connector has power... :type
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

imho, you should get a new radiator, flush the cooling system with vinegar or a radiator cleaning product, install a new t-stat and new coolant. don't forget to flush the heater core.

the fan operation is a secondary thing. the cooling systems in these little buggers are super efficient. my cars' fans rarely run and when they do it usually occurs while i'm really pushing things on the highway. at idle, the g10 really doesn't generate all that much heat.

that said, outfits that sling parts for these cars often mismark the parts and your new fan switch might not even be a switch at all.

the fellas' are trying to steer you to the logical troubleshooting method. first you check to see if you have power to the circuit, then you check each component in the circuit - temp switch, relay, and fan motor. if you don't see an issue there you move on to the actual physical wiring which might have a broken conductor. don't forget the ground side wiring.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

In the meantime, while you're narrowing down what the real problem is, and to assist in preventing from totally destroying the engine due to overheating, run the heater on full blast when stopped.

Heat control to max heat.
Blend control set for outside air.
Blower fan on max.

You'll be amazed at how much heat the heater core can remove from the engine.

Lot's of good advise given here. Fix it right and it will treat you right. :cheers
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jasecom89
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t3ragtop
Apr 21 2017, 07:03 AM
imho, you should get a new radiator, flush the cooling system with vinegar or a radiator cleaning product, install a new t-stat and new coolant. don't forget to flush the heater core.

the fan operation is a secondary thing. the cooling systems in these little buggers are super efficient. my cars' fans rarely run and when they do it usually occurs while i'm really pushing things on the highway. at idle, the g10 really doesn't generate all that much heat.

that said, outfits that sling parts for these cars often mismark the parts and your new fan switch might not even be a switch at all.

the fellas' are trying to steer you to the logical troubleshooting method. first you check to see if you have power to the circuit, then you check each component in the circuit - temp switch, relay, and fan motor. if you don't see an issue there you move on to the actual physical wiring which might have a broken conductor. don't forget the ground side wiring.
I know that is what I should do, but I was hoping to fix the issue before replacing the radiator, cause when I got the car everything was fine (that I knew of) and only after a particularly frustrating pizza delivery during which I had to slowly push my way through trick or treating hordes of children and their parents did my car overheat and blow a crack in the top of the radiator.
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jasecom89
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snowfish
Apr 21 2017, 10:48 AM
In the meantime, while you're narrowing down what the real problem is, and to assist in preventing from totally destroying the engine due to overheating, run the heater on full blast when stopped.

Heat control to max heat.
Blend control set for outside air.
Blower fan on max.

You'll be amazed at how much heat the heater core can remove from the engine.

Lot's of good advise given here. Fix it right and it will treat you right. :cheers
Yeah... about that... the blower doesn't work at all... I asked the previous owner what might be wrong with it and he said he had no idea. I was gonna get around to troubleshooting that at some point in this crazy busy life of mine. But this car is my daily driver, and since I use it 5 days a week to work it is hard to begin working on it and then have to go to work with it...
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jasecom89
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geogonfa
Apr 20 2017, 10:02 PM
First...with the key on, engine off, check to see if the BLK/WHT wire at the switch connector has power... :type
I will do this today. It's a shame I hadn't thought of this on my own. My dad always told me I lacked common sense lol suggestions like this seem so simple but they rarely come to me off-hand
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geogonfa
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:thumb
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