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Non-running 91 convertible. Options?; swap engine, rebuild? fuel issue?
Topic Started: Jun 17 2017, 06:01 PM (880 Views)
Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

MR1 Kingsbury
Jun 19 2017, 07:32 AM
Johnny Mullet
Jun 18 2017, 04:53 PM
I'll have a head ready to go!
Personally, I'd be more interested in a head....liner. the sedan headliner seems like it would be much, much more difficult to remove from the car with the doors and seats still attached. I may just staple it to death like someone did to my other one.

Though a complete engine rebuild and R&R would be much more exciting and challenging during the Palooza X.
It's not as bad as you would think. Removing the front seats makes lots of room.
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3cylinderSteve
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[ *  * ]
Sorry to go MIA on this thread. Moreso sorry for not thanking you all for the suggestions and generous offer to help.
The prospect of having it rebuilt at the Palooza was exciting and I kinda geeked out on the logistics of making it happen - not having the means to tow it out there was an obvious hurdle.
Turns out MR1 Kingsbury had PM'd me with an offer to tow, but having not logged-in I didn't see it until today. I wouldn't have been likely to make it anyhow.

Now back to this 'vert. I had some dental expenes which put this car on the back burner. I've been hoping to get it rolling before winter but no shops in my area will work on it. Two engine shops said they could do it but are "booked solid for a few months".

I'm wondering about having a mechanic do an engine swap.
Will an 3-cyl engine from a 94 manual 2 door (not XFI) swap into my 91 manual 'vert?

Are there any particulars to look out or prepare for?
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Crvett69


will drop right in but will want to swap your intake manifold assembly and distributor onto it when you are installing it
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3cylinderSteve
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Crvett69
Sep 1 2017, 03:40 PM
will drop right in but will want to swap your intake manifold assembly and distributor onto it when you are installing it
Excellent. This might be my plan of attack. Going to look at a frame rotted hatchback with 100k miles later this weekend.

While I'm at it...
The steering is a little uneven, my regular mechanic says it's probably the rack - turning to the right requires more effort than turning to the left.
He said it isn't something that would be cost effective to fix. But considering I'm looking at having the engine taken out it seems like now would be the time to do it.
Do any of you all have experience with replacing the steering rack? I imagine that's something that will need to be sourced from a parts yard?
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Crvett69


the hatchback rack should be the same. and its easy to get to with engine out
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3cylinderSteve
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One lingering question I've not had substantially answered by my mechanic is why the car won't start. He says it is because of the low compression - end of discussion. That doesn't seem right to me, I've had other engines with extremely low compression and they would start, just wouldn't keep running.

There is absolutely no firing of the cylinders, there is nothing popping.
There is spark, and I've tried spraying starter fluid in the throttle body, and there is still no sound of attempted ignition.

It was recently suggested to me that perhaps the ignition coil is going bad, and that perhaps the spark isn't strong enough.
Is a bad ignition coil something that would produce some spark but not enough to cause combustion?
Or is it likely that the compression is so bad?
Edited by 3cylinderSteve, Sep 26 2017, 11:53 AM.
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freegeo
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3cylinderSteve
Sep 26 2017, 11:52 AM
One lingering question I've not had substantially answered by my mechanic is why the car won't start. He says it is because of the low compression - end of discussion. That doesn't seem right to me, I've had other engines with extremely low compression and they would start, just wouldn't keep running.

There is absolutely no firing of the cylinders, there is nothing popping.
There is spark, and I've tried spraying starter fluid in the throttle body, and there is still no sound of attempted ignition.

It was recently suggested to me that perhaps the ignition coil is going bad, and that perhaps the spark isn't strong enough.
Is a bad ignition coil something that would produce some spark but not enough to cause combustion?
Or is it likely that the compression is so bad?
Quote:
 
He says it is because of the low compression - end of discussion.


If you really have 30 psi in 2 of the cylinders then it probably won't start even with starting fluid. If you question the compression test results you could always do the loan a tool and check it yourself. If you have even weak spark with starting fluid it should start.

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suzukitom
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Tom

It would be interesting to know if a Metro could still start up on only one cylinder with in spec compression.

Has anyone tried this?
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CMA


You already knew turbo1 :lol

I doubt Metro can't. it would power up but refuse to move.
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ptcapboy


one time when my metro wouldn't start after replacing the rings in one cylinder I -as an afterthought-added a little oil to each cylinder and managed to get it started-the oil must have raised the compression enough to do it-
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