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Replace Head Gasket or Use Sealant?; Leak...Head Gasket
Topic Started: Jul 11 2017, 01:10 PM (1,726 Views)
Phoenix
New Member
[ *  * ]
*Correction, $1195 for head gasket, timing belt and water pump. Said head gasket by itself is usually $1400 but giving me a discount since I'm a "good customer."

@Moringa

Hmm...maybe. I don't know the history of the vehicle. Guy I got it from bought it at auction and used it only a few months before storing it for a year in the garage. He replaced the radiator, but that's about it. I spent $1220 to get the brakes, rotors, brake lines and coolant pump replaced.

@MetroKid

I saw some videos a guy was doing on replacing a head gasket. That would be my reference if I were to do it myself...really don't want to try though. But may have to, worst case.

@Scoobs

Well, they're way more reasonable than the shop I went to before. They wanted $2700 to fix all sorts of things, including previous issues I fixed (just mentioned).

@MR1 Kingsbury

With a full shop I guess he doesn't price his labor that low.

@JellyBeanDriver

As per the phone conversation, his exact words from the recording: "On your car with your gas mileage, yeah you are correct we do have a problem with it. It looks like your uh, you can barely see it, but your head gasket's leaking...well, it's not like leaking internally it's more leaking out-ternally...If you look at the engine, by the head you can see a bunch of oil, you know. Have you noticed that? *I think ask if that could be the leak that was found when I got the car* Yep, it can lose compression there. It is a little low on compression. And I don't think the heads are warped or anything.

Shop owner, Joel, told me via text that the gasket was "bad".
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JellyBeanDriver


Phoenix
Jul 11 2017, 10:26 PM

@JellyBeanDriver

As per the phone conversation, his exact words from the recording: "On your car with your gas mileage, yeah you are correct we do have a problem with it. It looks like your uh, you can barely see it, but your head gasket's leaking...well, it's not like leaking internally it's more leaking out-ternally...If you look at the engine, by the head you can see a bunch of oil, you know. Have you noticed that? *I think ask if that could be the leak that was found when I got the car* Yep, it can lose compression there. It is a little low on compression. And I don't think the heads are warped or anything.

Shop owner, Joel, told me via text that the gasket was "bad".
He's guessing. And that's not a good deal even if he was completely rebuilding the head which it doesn't sound like he is.
Run away. He's doing you no favors.
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ptcapboy


I thought your story sounded familer so I looked back and found your post in the geo metro lounge-did you ever find out why you have a 3 cylinder automatic in a 97 when they didn't make them that year? have you checked your mileage without using the A'C? (since it sounds like your mechanic modified it) I would go buy or borrow a compression tester and do your own test to see what is going on-a leaky head gasket should show lower readings in 2 adjacent cylinders-low readings in just one could indicate bad valves and if the reading goes up after you add a little engine oil to the cylinder that indicates bad rings-you mentioned in the past you have no garage but I have done all my head gasket replacements outside in the driveway so it is very doable without a garage (though I know that maybe it's not allowed at your apartments) as for sealant I would be hesitant but I did get a little over a year of service out of my 3 cylinder by using K@M (or is it W? )block sealer and running it in plain water for 500 miles and then replacing it with anti-freeze (that guy on you tube recommended it-marty or whoever) you run the risk of clogging your radiator however and I bypassed the heater core while running the sealer-you mentioned the water pump in the quote for the second job and though it was supposingly replaced in the first job? anyway if a compression test indicates you should replace the head gasket I would HIGHLY encourage you to try the job yourself-you can do it especially with the help of the smart guys on this forum-
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yz400
New Member
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head gasket job is really not a big deal and I would never pay someone 1200 bucks to change one. I agree with some of the others, that shop is screwing you around if they are charging you that kind of money. You are going to have the timing belt off anyway so that shouldn't cost any extra other than the 20-30 dollar belt itself. Get a book, follow it and do it yourself for less than 100 and that is changing all upper gaskets at the same time. Not that hard to do, just a process and I recommend not using the ITM gaskets, Stick with Felpro or Beck/Arnley.

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smysmbrg
SteveO

send me an email the forum is not working on my APPLE DEVICES. sounds like you need competent mechanic diagnostics.
did they do a cylinder leakage test? did they do a compression test? that 1200 quote seems double priced almost.
how bad was the gas milleage ? How many miles are on the engine? typically the metro engines burn the valves more than blow the head gasket that means a remanufactured head would be a good idea if that's the case. I doubt the head gasket is leaking oil bad enough to be a concern could be something completely different.
My shop would charge 110 for a diagnostic and we could do a cylinder leakage test if necessary with that cost? we are pretty busy but could get it looked at most likely. My dad is semi retired and has experience with the metro head job or diagnostics maybe he could help you I can ask him.
at 1200 you could buy another car and 2000 is a ton of money to spend fixing a metro sounds like to much $ unless they did a rebuilt transmission or something major like 4 struts and 4 tires and a battery and alternator and radiator
the stuff in a bottle may fix it but it may last 5 minutes 5 days 5 weeks 5 months or maybe clog your heater core, but just maybe 1/100 chance it works but it must be diagnosed that this cylinder is leaking this much leakage or has this many psi compression before throwing the mechanic in a bottle at it
Edited by smysmbrg, Jul 12 2017, 10:23 PM.
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MetroKid
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Just get a Haynes shop manual and give it the good ole college try!
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

MetroKid
Jul 12 2017, 10:19 PM
Just get a Haynes shop manual and give it the good ole college try!
Or don't waste your money on a Haynes/Chiltons and get a factory service manual from ebay.
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CaptainMetro
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If you're going to use sealant, be sure to use the GOLD silicone.
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Phoenix
New Member
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@smysmbrg

Sent you an email:

Hey Steve,

Sorry, wasn't aware the messaging function wasn't working for you.

I think they may have done a compression test...but not sure. I'll know when I pick up the car in about 2 hours.

MPGs were bad...averaging about 24 MPG on Fuel Buddy. Mileage is a little over 81K I believe.

Where is your shop located? And do you take credit cards? Yeah, at this point I feel like I should have just gotten a cheap Prius for $2K. Hell, Golden Valley Tire & Service wanted $2700 to fix stuff when I first got it! This shop, Uptown Auto Repair and Auto Body, at 3817 Cedar Ave S charged me $1220 to get brake lines, brakes, rotors and new mirrors fixed just to make it driveable. Threw in an AC compressor for free. Had to pay an additional $160 to fix an exhaust rattle and put in a used alternator ($25 for parts). Put in the AC compressor then too.

@Metromightymouse

I need to get a manual. But I've been told that they didn't make 3 cylinder cars anymore as of 1997? Still just get the 1997 service manual?
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Find your ECU behind the glovebox and copy all the numbers down then post that here so we can determine what year the control is from. With that we should be able to direct you to the year manual to get. Sedans were not available with 3 cylinders and I believe that is what you've said you have. 2 door hatchbacks were available with the 3 cylinder in the Geo line until they stopped making them. If you are lucky, the conversion was done with parts from a 97 hatchback.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Just reread your first post in this thread and see you are listing as a 97 lsi hatchback. Lsi should have been a 4 cylinder by 97 I believe, but your hatch could have been replaced or the wrong trim level recorded on the title making the situation confusing. I'm leaning towards your car being a 97 3 cylinder from the factory.
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Mrbreeze


I would NEVER use a sealant, check compression than figure out what's going on, you really need to do the work yourself, shops will rip you off, the $ you save on labor alone will more than pay for the repair..
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

My offer still stands. :thumb
If you can wait until the 12th of August to do the repair, bring it to the Minnesota Metro Meet.
We can do the job with no cost for labor, except maybe a few beers for the folks doing the work. :whistle :whistle
You buy the parts needed, and the folks at the meet will be more than willing to help you get it fixed and on the road again.
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Mrbreeze


That's an offer that nobody should refuse, wish I had that opportunity, not that I'am in need, but a option definitely worth it :thumb
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Mrbreeze
Jul 13 2017, 01:14 PM
That's an offer that nobody should refuse, wish I had that opportunity, not that I'am in need, but a option definitely worth it :thumb
^This
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