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1997 Geo metro Automatic 1.3L; Geo metro has 3 not readys and I've done everything to fix it.
Topic Started: Jul 15 2017, 11:13 AM (325 Views)
GeoFather
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Hey guys! My vehicle keeps showing up with 3 Not Readys. Which are "EGR" "O2 Sensor" and "Catalyst". No check engine light comes up when engine is running. I've changed both O2 sensor ( Downstream and Upstream) with brand new ones. I bought a used computer for my geo metro thinking my old was not working correctly and went to the junk yard and bought a used EGR valve and EGR vacuum solenoid. So far nothing has worked. Still have 3 not readys and I'm on my last paper tag permit. I've been to 3 mechanics and they don't know what the problem is. They told me this and that. Did everything. Any advice will be helpful. Thank you.
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geogonfa
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How long have you driven the Metro?...usually takes about 100-150 miles to reset all the I/M filters "Information Monitors" for the system to pass Emission testing , these filters have nothing to do whether you have codes or not, ...it's basically a ECM relearn and for our little cars...this requires them to be driven for quite a few miles...be patient and take it for a cruise' shutting it off and restarting about 3 times along the way...where in Texas are you? and before I forget
Welcome to the Fun... :greet
Edited by geogonfa, Jul 15 2017, 11:58 AM.
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GeoFather
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When I first fixed the o2 sensor I drove it more than 150 miles and still 3 not readys. I recently changed the upstream o2 sensor and driven it for 60 miles. I'm from Austin, Texas. Also, about the turning it off my vehicle 3 times. Do drive it for 15 or more miles and then stop and turn off and do that again process again for 3 times?
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geogonfa
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yes...on the stop tun off, restart... i'm in Hutto just east of round rock...if you want to stop by I can take a look at it...
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geogonfa
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send me a PM if you need any help...
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MetroKid
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Hey Texas neighbor, and welcome.
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Woodie
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Some of those checks require 3 warm up cycles. Not sure about the exact criteria for which ones, but it's all spelled out in the FSM. Just turning it off and then back on won't help for those.

It's also possible that you've got a bad sensor ground causing all three. Most of the sensors work against a ground potential supplied by the main ground wires connected below the back side of the throttle body.

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MR1 Kingsbury
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and every time you disconnect your battery (or with bad connections) it starts the sensor clock all over again.
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Moringa
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Woodie
Jul 16 2017, 04:52 AM
It's also possible that you've got a bad sensor ground causing all three. Most of the sensors work against a ground potential supplied by the main ground wires connected below the back side of the throttle body.
This is possible, but then you should have a pending, or full blown code/CE light, for THAT sensor as well. I'd verify that you are NOT losing all your monitor info, every time you shut the vehicle off. A bad PCM ground could cause this. An easy way to check this would be to NOT shut off the engine, after your "drive." Take it immediately to where you're getting it scanned, and do it. It's pretty easy to create another ground for the PCM, if needed. Just run a small guage wire from the outside of the case, to a known, good, "full time" ground, and leave it hooked up.
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geogonfa
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Well the young Metro enthusiast brought his '97 over...plugged in the scanner, and sure enough he had 3 I/M's not clearing, and no codes (pending or stored)...due to the other monitors working i knew it was not a power problem nor a ground problem, but knowing Metros really rely on their grounds, cleaned them up and made sure they were making good contact...
All scanned sensors were reacting within parameters, though, the O2 sensors were acting really slow...
A visual inspection showed all the egr and evap vacuum lines were either cracked, hard as a rock, or both...even had a couple collapsed lines...
replaced all vacuum lines under the hood and discovered the EGR bypass valve had a broken tip, luckily I keep spares...
Next, we checked the EGR valve and found the ports through the intake manifold and the head were almost fully plugged up with carbon, just enough not to trigger a code yet...cleaned them out to prevent further problems.
Then, just for the need to find out the health of the Engine, and, because the front engine seals are leaking, as well as I like to make sure there are no other problems mechanically...A compression test was performed...
#1. 180 #2. 185 #3 180 #4 170...
performed a wet test and they all stayed the same except #4 came back up to 185...not bad, he's gonna have to keep an eye out for #4 if he starts developing a rough idle...
Proceed to check out the exhaust, he already had somebody install new O2 sensors, but had very little exhaust coming out the tail pipe, pulled the cat pipe and could hear the rattling inside and very little flow through with air being pushed through from the compressor...so a new cat pipe was installed...
Note: the tech who installed the new O2 sensors stripped the lower one, so I had to rethread the sensor before reinstalling the pipe :banghead ...my thoughts...if it doesn't thread in by hand...stop and figure out why...
Now with all that work done, plugged the scanner back in and drove it...now all the monitors but the EVAP one showed ready...
this was a bit puzzling because after a thorough testing, the system was working as it should and no codes present...so took for a test drive again,
(BTW...his A/C compressor came apart and he hasn't repaired it yet, and it's a 103 in the shade if you can find some :shake ), still wouldn't clear the EVAP monitor...
then looking at fuel gauge and noticed it was on the "E" so decided to put some fuel in it...it only took 2 gallons...
thought "Ok, fuel gauge doesn't work"...then "Oh Crud" :smackface , remembering that the EVAP system will not set "Ready" unless the fuel gauge shows between 1/4 to 3/4 tank of fuel, because the system can't pressurise and do a leak down properly if the tank is full or empty...
so, proceed to diagnose the fuel sender in which also has an input line going to the PCM...
All the wires tested good as well as the gauge...found the sending unit itself was corroded and no good...replaced it with one on the shelf and reassembled everything...
Took it for a test drive and "Whoo Hoo" good to go, all the I/M monitors show ready...now off to the inspection station... :deal
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Cobrajet25
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My '97 3/5 threw these same codes the entire time I owned it. Like you, I replaced EVERYTHING. Never figured it out. Finally, I just took the CEL bulb out, but there is no emissions testing where I live.

Good luck.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

geogonfa, took a Metro master for that one! Good Job! :cheers
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MR1 Kingsbury
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excellent work GeoGonfa. very systematic and complete...
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Woodie
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geogonfa
Jul 21 2017, 03:07 PM
so, proceed to diagnose the fuel sender in which also has an input line going to the PCM...
Hmmm, learn something every day.

I guess I kinda knew that, I'm well aware that some monitors don't run unless the tank is between this and that, but it had just never clicked in my head that the PCM was watching the tank level.
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