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| OVERHEATED REAL BAD; I need help figuring out how much damage I did | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 27 2017, 10:46 AM (660 Views) | |
| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 10:46 AM Post #1 |
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Yesterday coming home from work I overheated real bad. I live in the Phoenix area and it was about 110 degrees at the time it started to overheat. The temp gauge never went up. I started to hear the pinging noise from the engine. I thought I developed a knock in the motor. Finally the car died and I pulled to side of the freeway. That's when I realized I was way overheated. Went to go get some water and put it in, but I just leaked out as fast as I put it in from somewhere about the oil pan. So I just went to get my Duramax and towed it home. Let it sit, then tried to start it up. It barely will start, and I have to hold the gas down for it to start. Doesn't seem like it runs the same even when I finally get it started. What damage has been done? Is it fixable? I don't want to lose this car!!!! Any help would be amazing. I do have a spare engine that needs to be rebuilt, but I don't know how to do it. |
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| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 10:48 AM Post #2 |
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Sorry its a 95 3/5 |
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| t3ragtop | Aug 27 2017, 11:11 AM Post #3 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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when the 3 banger loses coolant the first thing that happens is that the temp sending unit loses contact with the coolant and the temp reading doesn't correspond to coolant temp any more. that's why you didn't see the temp go up. check the water pump pick up tube at the rear of the block. check the water pump's weep hole. at the minimum you will be replacing the water pump, maybe the pick up tube, pulling the head to check it and the block's deck for flatness, and replacing the head gasket. check the radiator and heater core and flush them. use a radiator cleaning product or white vinegar to remove deposits and then flush with water until it runs clear and clean. check the radiator hoses and the heater hoses. the g10 block and head are aluminum and they don't take overheating well at all. i have seen both the block and head severely warped after overheating so you may want to prepare yourself for a trip to a machine shop or look for a used engine that hasn't been overheated. |
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| nineoneandblue | Aug 27 2017, 11:19 AM Post #4 |
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The chain of events could have started with a water pump failure, just a guess from where I sit, ( lower passenger side of engine ?) the real problem now is the " overheated real bad" issue. These little motors don't tolerate overheating very well, might be a warped head/ head gasket failure now. Have a look at your oil, if it's " milkshake like" you've got coolant mixed in with the oil and a possible head gasket failure. Have a look and report back with what you find, the more detail the better with help getting you and your Geo back on the road. Good luck! |
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| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 11:31 AM Post #5 |
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Thank you guys for all the help!!! I have just found the tube going into the water pump separated!!! It looks like its going to be a nightmare to get to it. I am going to check the oil now. |
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| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 11:41 AM Post #6 |
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The oil does not appear milky on the dip stick, but sure does smell burnt. |
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| nineoneandblue | Aug 27 2017, 11:52 AM Post #7 |
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The head gasket could still be an issue even though coolant is not in the oil, only leaking between cyls and cause the rough running condition you described. You could fix the coolant pipe issue and then run the engine looking for bubbles in the top of the radiator fill opening to confirm. |
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| nineoneandblue | Aug 27 2017, 12:03 PM Post #8 |
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This might help you in diagnosing a head gasket leak |
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| freegeo | Aug 27 2017, 01:05 PM Post #9 |
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Can you do a compression tester to see what the compression is of now? |
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| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 01:06 PM Post #10 |
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I got the hose back in to the water pump. filled it up with water tried to start it. It would not fire up. took the oil cap off and saw a very, very milky oil. Now what do I do??? |
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| dustinterror | Aug 27 2017, 01:08 PM Post #11 |
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I do not have a compression tester. |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Aug 27 2017, 01:29 PM Post #12 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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It's time to rebuild your spare motor and prepare it for the swap. The one in the car doesn't seem to have survived, however, it too can be rebuilt and shelved for sale or installation later. Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Aug 27 2017, 01:31 PM.
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| nineoneandblue | Aug 27 2017, 01:33 PM Post #13 |
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I'd say it's a head gasket failure. Your gonna have to pull the head off and look things over. Don't make the mistake of just replacing the head gasket and " hoping" that's the only issue. Your going to have to be sure the head and the deck of the block are both flat/ not warped, nothing cracked. Google is your friend here, if you search something like " how to replace a head gasket on a Geo metro, 9 out of 10 times you'll find a Geo metro forum topic about your search and it will bring you back here. If you intend to do it yourself an FSM is highly recommended, can be found on ebay, we have access to a 94 FSM here on the forum, read up on the info pertinent to your issue, ask questions here, many knowledgeable members here on the forum. |
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| 91 ragtop | Aug 27 2017, 01:50 PM Post #14 |
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After you pull the head get someone with the right tools to check the cylinders for out of round. With enough heat to shut it down and make it real hard to start my bet would be warped everything. Ken.......... |
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| ptcapboy | Aug 27 2017, 04:57 PM Post #15 |
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those coolant temp gauges on metros are worthless-same thing to a lessor extent happened to me-since most overheating situations I would think involve a loss of coolant when would a metro temperature gauge accurately indicate a overheating situation? |
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