Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Ground for coolant, cam, and isc sensor
Topic Started: Sep 4 2017, 07:24 PM (1,031 Views)
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

Ok, so started car up at 156, idle was lowish at about 650 to 700 for about 5 to 10 seconds slowly picked it's way up to 800, next screen shot I took car was at 163.4, revs at 962, next 168.8,, 973, next 177.8, 1073, then 183.2 and 1016, now car is at 192 and fluctuating between around 1000-1100, sometimes drops into the 900s, but honestly I think we barely messed with the idle to make it idle alittle higher to get rid of some shake because it shakes the lower it goes usually lol I should also note that I havnt had to turn the headlights on this time it slowly corrected itself...

Headlights on at 201 degrees idling at 950
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


Ok, did you happen to check the stft while you were checking the idle? From the way it sounds your not having a injector problem. Anytime the 3 cylinder engine gets below 800 rpm it is not going to idle very well.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

If I remember correctly, they were in the same zone or around that from last test
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


If it is below 5 or so you don't have a leaky injector.

Here is what mine does from time to time.

Posted Image

You would probably want to check the post that evmetro and suzukitom has posted about the tps.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

I'm not to worried about the idle but more about why the car randomly died, and if the coolant gauge or isc is elated to that, Idk what else to really test, we didn't mess with the tps just the small stop screw
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


Sounds like you basically have to wait until it dies and see what it is not getting to run. Fuel or spark.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

Well I saw it got spark when it died on the interstate (just pulled coil wire off). Didnt check for fuel though

Edit one... but with this being intermittent wouldn't it be hard to tell which caused it when it died
Edited by Brandon8791, Sep 6 2017, 08:53 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
suzukitom
Member Avatar
Tom

Brandon8791
Sep 6 2017, 08:51 PM
Well I saw it got spark when it died on the interstate (just pulled coil wire off). Didnt check for fuel though

Edit one... but with this being intermittent wouldn't it be hard to tell which caused it when it died
A failing intermittent fuel injector will not set a code..so there won't be any freeze frame data to look at unless you were recording live data at the time.

A used injector is $12 at pic n pull.

Edit: an abrupt engine cut out that is not due to an ignition/spark fault is more likely due to an injector on a TBI metro than fuel delivery (fuel pump, low pressure, clogged filter etc)
Edited by suzukitom, Sep 6 2017, 09:45 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

I just thought it was weird the car stayed started if I kept it in gear but when I put it in neutral it died (maybe rpm was keeping it started?) Idk it may be a failing injector though. Is it better to buy one of those used or just spend the extra 30 or so n get it new

Edit one: And is there a set way for me to test it besides looking to see if it's leaking or something? I know the scanner app can do live data logging I believe but that would suck to do it everytime I drive the little thing lol

Edit 2: I guess it was weird though that it wouldn't start back when I tried several times at the interstate and then came back to it to start it again 15 or 20 mins later and then it fired right up again... Idk I'm scratching my head still... hoping you smart people can help me figure this thing out because it's my daily driver that I drive anywhere from 50 to 150 miles a day...

Edit 3: now that I think about it... duh you need fuel fire and compression... it obviously has compression, it had spark... So I guess it w asnt get fuel which I guess may lead me to a fuel problem... idk
Edited by Brandon8791, Sep 6 2017, 10:24 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
suzukitom
Member Avatar
Tom

A used fuel injector is cheap enough to try. Knoxville Pull a Part has a 94 Geo Metro 1.0 in stock. Hopefully the injector is still on the car.

https://www.pullapart.com/locations/knoxville/

A new or remanufactured injector is listed by several manufacturers ranging from $67 to $320 US, at RockAuto.com

An intermittently open or shorted fuel injector would be hard to verify through testing. I have found that a failing injector is more likely to act up after the engine is warmed up, rather than prevent you from starting up cold.

[Edit: The first time I experienced this a few years ago, I had an inductive timing light on a plug wire and ran it into the passenger compartment. As the injector failed during a test drive, the timing light continued to flash as the engine stalled but continued to turn in gear with the ignition still on. I peered into the throttle when I tried to restart it, and no fuel was present. After walking home and coming back with a friend, I decided to try restarting it first and it ran long enough to get home.
Edited by suzukitom, Sep 7 2017, 12:24 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

Well dang... I did find a new injector on eBay for 26.99 made by Delphi. Idk if I should buy it n try it, or keep testing my luck and end up with a failed injector and stuck on the side of the road...

I am curious though, if it's the injector, it's weird the car cleared up after I floored it both times this has happened. Could that mean it's dirty and I floor it and that makes it unstick or loosen up and work properly Or? I mean $27 for a new one sure isn't terrible, but money is money and if it doesn't really need replaced, why throw a part in without knowing, but like you said there's not really anything to do to really test it, so Idk what I should do or what would you do? Again thanks everyone :)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Dystopiate666
Member Avatar
Tree Banger

If you have the factory injector in still on a high mileage vehicle, its easy and cheap enough to diagnose with a new part. If it doesn't solve youre issue, you have a known good injector in your tool box, or on board kit now.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Brandon8791
Sep 6 2017, 10:16 PM
I guess it was weird though that it wouldn't start back when I tried several times at the interstate and then came back to it to start it again 15 or 20 mins later and then it fired right up again... Idk I'm scratching my head still... hoping you smart people can help me figure this thing out because it's my daily driver that I drive anywhere from 50 to 150 miles a day...

Not weird at all, that's exactly the kind of crap they pull while on the way to failing completely.
Brandon8791
Sep 7 2017, 01:56 AM
Well dang... I did find a new injector on eBay for 26.99 made by Delphi. Idk if I should buy it n try it, or keep testing my luck and end up with a failed injector and stuck on the side of the road...

I am curious though, if it's the injector, it's weird the car cleared up after I floored it both times this has happened. Could that mean it's dirty and I floor it and that makes it unstick or loosen up and work properly Or? I mean $27 for a new one sure isn't terrible, but money is money and if it doesn't really need replaced, why throw a part in without knowing, but like you said there's not really anything to do to really test it, so Idk what I should do or what would you do? Again thanks everyone :)

My daily driver? I would have replaced it a year ago just based upon the number of failures others have had. $27? no brainer. At $27 I'd buy two and carry one in the glovebox, the average person's car payment is $300 per month and we're quibbling about one tenth of that, one time?

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brandon8791
Tryn Hard!!

Woodie
Sep 7 2017, 05:10 AM

My daily driver? I would have replaced it a year ago just based upon the number of failures others have had. $27? no brainer. At $27 I'd buy two and carry one in the glovebox, the average person's car payment is $300 per month and we're quibbling about one tenth of that, one time?

When you recently lost your job, and living with my parents once again, yes, yes I am quibbling over $27, I'm sorry for the people that ended up in a situation with a 300 car payment, that's not my problem, I don't do credit myself, if I don't have the money for it, I won't buy it. I'm glad you would rather throw money out the door not knowing if that's the problem or not, from my understanding I thought test we're suppose to be ran in order to figure out what's wrong with it, not just throw money, time and parts at it hoping for the best...


Not only that, you being tech certified, you of all people should know that, maybe your not the one who said test should be ran before it's replaced but I know someone on here has, and I just thought that was the general rule, regardless though, $27 would fill the car up and more, that's almost a weeks worth of gas here...
Edited by Brandon8791, Sep 7 2017, 06:07 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


When it's failing, look down there and see if any gas is coming out. But the symptoms certainly point to a sticky injector.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply