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| Ground for coolant, cam, and isc sensor | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 4 2017, 07:24 PM (1,029 Views) | |
| MR1 Kingsbury | Sep 7 2017, 12:12 PM Post #31 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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And next time it fails... knock on the injector with a screwdriver handle in mid crank (assistant) while it isn't starting. I'd bet it will fire right away and confirm everyone's suspicion and experience. |
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| Brandon8791 | Sep 7 2017, 05:11 PM Post #32 |
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Tryn Hard!!
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I guess I'll go ahead and throw the money at it then. If I remember correctly, I managed to strip the original bolts on another metro trying to get the top off the injector, so is there any easier way? Are they loctited from the factory Or? I remember I just had someone drill the bolts out and I just replaced it with hex bolts with a 4 way in the middle... |
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| freegeo | Sep 7 2017, 06:04 PM Post #33 |
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The factory tread locked the 2 screws the hold the injector in. You will have to heat the screws with a soldering iron to get them out. Don't get in a hurry, you don't want them to break off. This is your daily driver right? Make sure you get some replacement bolts to replace the original ones. |
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| Brandon8791 | Sep 7 2017, 06:21 PM Post #34 |
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Tryn Hard!!
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Will do! Thanks guys! Any idea where to get original bolts, or if the original ones can be reused and just reloctited? |
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| freegeo | Sep 7 2017, 07:29 PM Post #35 |
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Original screws are no longer available. I searched for the part number I have and it doesn't give a size. Evmetro ans suzukitom know what the size is. Maybe they will post the size or pm one of them for info. |
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| suzukitom | Sep 7 2017, 07:42 PM Post #36 |
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Tom
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I've got a few photos to post this evening when i get home. Alternate bolts, and testing of a good, failing and failed TBI injector. |
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| Brandon8791 | Sep 7 2017, 10:52 PM Post #37 |
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Tryn Hard!!
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Awesome thanks a lot!!!! It's still running and going and hasn't died yet, but I'm sure it will lol... the ISC has decided to act up with a load being put on it idling up n down... hold high idle for 2 to 3 seconds then down and repeat it eventually stop after turning the headlights on n off lol hasn't done that in atleast over a year |
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| suzukitom | Sep 8 2017, 12:15 AM Post #38 |
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Tom
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The photos below have comments included. The only other comments to add are: (1) Sometimes the o-ring stays behind inside the throttle body when you remove the old injector, so make sure you don't jam the new one on top of it, lol. (2) The old injector can be a little sticky to remove. Also fuel pressure should be relieved by pulling the FI fuse, to use up some gas before you remove the injector from the TB. Wear eye and face protection. (2) The factory uses BOSCH DENSO injectors. The design used for the newer 98+ Metros have bigger filter screens and have a gold color body. The older injectors are green in color, but both have the same part number which is 195500-2160, and as far as I know work the same. (3) The wrecking yard link I posted previously sells a used injector for $7.95. It's a bargain if you are on a budget, and you can practice removing it. ![]()
Edited by suzukitom, Sep 8 2017, 12:29 AM.
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| freegeo | Sep 8 2017, 05:48 AM Post #39 |
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Hey Tom, is the reading correct then in the second picture or should it be .08 and it still messes up when hot? |
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| suzukitom | Sep 8 2017, 11:15 AM Post #40 |
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Tom
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My meter shows 0.8 ohms on the 200 ohm scale with the probes touching. I don't have auto-zero so I just wanted to display the raw reading of 1.4 ohms which is actually 0.6 ohms after correcting for the initial meter error. This second injector's resistance value still falls within the normal range. My point here is that you can't always detect a bad injector coil unless you check it immediately after the engine stalls out. If i had been able to check it hot, right after failing i would have expected either zero (actual) ohms if it shorted, or infinite ohms if it failed open circuit. Edit: Also this second bad injector was intermittent so it was cutting out on the highway. I'd lose 30 mph while flooring the gas pedal and simetines itvwould kick back in. Other times it would only cut out and stumble during light throttle like a misfire event every 10 seconds. Edited by suzukitom, Sep 8 2017, 11:20 AM.
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| freegeo | Sep 8 2017, 03:11 PM Post #41 |
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Thanks for the clarification Tom. |
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| freegeo | Sep 8 2017, 08:09 PM Post #42 |
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After looking at my fuel injector I see that there is a + and - side to the connections. Care should be taken to make sure it is positioned correctly when replacing it. One should take a picture of it before pulling it out to replace. |
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| suzukitom | Sep 8 2017, 08:28 PM Post #43 |
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Tom
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The injector is indexed so it only plugs into he cap one way
Edited by suzukitom, Sep 8 2017, 08:29 PM.
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| freegeo | Sep 8 2017, 08:37 PM Post #44 |
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Yea it is isn't it. You still have to be careful if you dis assemble it that you put the correct wire back in to the connector. |
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injector1.jpg (167.2 KB)
3:49 AM Jul 11