Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
1997 Geo Metro issues; Having troubles running my geo metro
Topic Started: Sep 16 2017, 09:43 PM (311 Views)
Bryant144
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
Hey guys, hoping any of you may have some advice for me. So my Geo Metro has been giving me some issues for the past few weeks. Its' a 97. For the most part it runs great but lately its been having troubles starting. If I let it sit for a bit it will start with no problem but after driving around for a bit and then when I go to turn it on again it will either die right after starting, or wont start at all. It will crank but wont start. I can usually get it going after about 10 tries or so. The spark plugs looked a little rough so I changed all them, as well as the wires. Still no change. I looked at the router and distributer cap and also looked fairly rough so I replaced them, again with no change. So now it was on to the fuel pump. I changed that and it seemed to be better for a couple hours then went back to the same problem.... (Tease) Some people are saying it may possibly be the fuel injectors, or even the ignition module. Any advice?

Thanks
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


It could be many things, best to find out what it is BEFORE replacing parts, just throwing parts at it randomly could prove very expensive before you accidentally stumble across the problem. If I were going to guess in this manner, my first guess would be injector. An injector that doesn't shut off completely will act like this.

Next time it won't start, look down the throttle body with a flashlight as someone turns on the key without cranking it over. If you see any gas come out, then your fuel injector is stuck open. Then have your helper crank it over (watch out your tie doesn't get caught up in the belts). You should see a nice come of fuel mist coming out of the injector. If nothing comes out, then your injector is stuck closed. If you see both of these conditions properly, then take out a spark plug and see if you've got a good spark.

Always a good idea to renew all connections, especially the grounds. Unplug everything you can get to and reconnect it. Unscrew the ground connections, wiggle the terminal a little bit as you tighten it back up. The most important ground is under the throttle bocy on the back of the intake manifold.
Edited by Woodie, Sep 18 2017, 05:37 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
VladTheImpala
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  *  * ]
Have you changed your fuel filter, or just the fuel pump? I am surprised you went right after the fuel pump, as the fuel filter is easier and cheaper to replace and might be the source of your issue.

I'm having a similar problem with my 91 automatic - starts fine when cold, but if you drive it around for 20 minutes and let it warm up, then turn it off, it won't start until it cools down again. However, mine is also having trouble accelerating from stop (hesitates, you push the pedal and it doesn't go, sometimes stalls - seems to only happen at stop or at very low speeds, such as when you slow down at a yield then try to go again).

I agree with Woodie that throwing parts at it without knowing what it is could end up costing you more money than it might be worth, but at the same time, certain cheap parts are easy to replace. A fuel filter costs 10 bucks.

However, it might not fix your issue. On my car, I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, coil, and fuel filter, but the problem is still there. Although I replaced the fuel filter just two days ago, so I am still waiting to see if the problem persists. I'm hoping I fixed it. The car did hesitate again the morning after I changed the fuel filter, so I immediately assumed the problem is still there. However, it hasn't hesitated any more after that, and I'm hoping that it hesitated the next morning because there was still dirty fuel in the lines, and that the problem really was the fuel filter. Here is a visual of how important it is to replace the fuel filter. Imagine that dirty stuff going through your lines and gumming up your fuel injector. I imagine that if the problem is bad enough, replacing the fuel filter won't give you immediate results - it might take a few miles for your fuel injector to get back to normal. In the next 24-28 hours I should know for sure whether it's still hesitating.

But even if I discover in the next 24-48 hours that the problem persists, do I regret replacing all that stuff? No. I didn't replace anything expensive, like a fuel pump or fuel injector. All the parts I replaced were $10-$30 parts. I learned a lot, built confidence, and actually had a bit of fun replacing all that stuff. And the car's performance is improving, despite the fact that I haven't fixed the issue I was trying to fix. It's actually performing better than ever when it's not acting up - acceleration is great, the engine sounds more confident and stable, it has more power. So it's not a total waste of money.

You should also consider testing your coil to see if it's giving enough voltage. I noticed some corrosion on the ground terminal of my coil, and looked up "bad coil symptoms" and saw that "engine stalling" and "engine misfiring" were symptoms of a bad coil. So I figured it can't hurt to replace it.

Here are 5 signs your car has a dirty fuel filter ((source):

1. Hesitating Engine
2. Stalling
3. Not Starting
4. Hard Starting
5. Different Performance at Different Speeds.

That last one seemed especially true for me. The car had very little power at low speeds, but normal power once you got above 25 mph. It makes sense when you consider how much pressure is in the fuel lines as fuel demand increases, and how a clogged fuel filter would restrict fuel flow.
Edited by VladTheImpala, Oct 6 2017, 04:06 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bryant144
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
Thank you for all your input. I brought it in to the mechanics to see if they could locate the issue. He came up with 2 possible issues. For starters, it is leaking oil on the crank sensor which cause a circuit break. So he got me to do a test for the next time it wouldn't start. I checked the injector to see if it sprayed any oil while a friend tried starting the car. There was no spray so my mechanic is now thinking it is either the sub harness for the throttle body or the injector. Any thoughts? Sub harness is very hard to come by
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


The crank position sensor can be unplugged and the engine will still start. There can be a number of reasons the injector is not letting fuel out. I can post more after work.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Johnny Mullet
Member Avatar
Fear the Mullet

Does the engine have compression in all 3 cylinders?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


Bryant144
Oct 10 2017, 05:49 PM
Thank you for all your input. I brought it in to the mechanics to see if they could locate the issue. He came up with 2 possible issues. For starters, it is leaking oil on the crank sensor which cause a circuit break. So he got me to do a test for the next time it wouldn't start. I checked the injector to see if it sprayed any oil while a friend tried starting the car. There was no spray so my mechanic is now thinking it is either the sub harness for the throttle body or the injector. Any thoughts? Sub harness is very hard to come by
Quote:
 
For starters, it is leaking oil on the crank sensor which cause a circuit break.


Did the pcm set a code for the crank position sensor, PO335? On a 97 you can unplug the crank position sensor and the engine will start and run. It will set a PO335 code if it is unplugged.

Quote:
 
There was no spray so my mechanic is now thinking it is either the sub harness for the throttle body or the injector.


If you still have the car at your house, the next time it doesn't start pour just a small amount of gas down the throttle body and see if it will start. That will eliminate spark and compression. If it is fuel related then checking to make sure you have correct fuel pressure at the throttle body and the injector is getting a signal to open. Sounds like the injector maybe sticking closed.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
eddyandthebadcheese
New Member
[ *  * ]
also..you have to use some logic here. If all things remain equal, and the only thing that changes is the car was running for a while then doesnt start, then the only factor that comes into play is heat. Since heat is the catalyst here, what does heat effect in the car? Expansion of wires.... Does heat effect the fuel injector ?... Does heat effect the fuel pump?... Does heat effect the sensor?... Does heat effect a fuel filter?.. well, obviously not a filter. Will heat cause these things to not function properly until they cool down? Heat can effect the computer components.. transistors.. capacitors.. An error code may appear when the car is hot.. that will not appear when it is cool. I would start there. If that happens, you can trace it down.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
LesCrapp
Member Avatar
Legend

$0.02 Fuel injector mine would quit when the car was warm and shut off then try to restart.... :banghead
Edited by LesCrapp, Oct 11 2017, 04:20 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Electrical Systems · Next Topic »
Add Reply