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95 Geo Metro dies while driving
Topic Started: Sep 27 2017, 01:23 PM (3,428 Views)
clc
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The radiator fan did not go on. I just started the engine and still the same low idle and rough at the beginning.
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suzukitom
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Tom

The internal idle switch inside the ISC might be okay. If the ISC plunger is not firmly pressed in against its spring at warm idle..the switch will not signal that it is at idle. Some folks suggest gluing a dime to the end of the ISC plunger tip to verify, and leave it in to compensate for wear or as a temporary repair.
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clc
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I started the engine and when it came up to temp the gap was larger than a dime so ended up putting a nickle in the gap.
Idle now is at around 700 RPM.
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freegeo
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I have a odd feeling that you have a electrical issue or issues / possible ecm problem. You have had quite a few codes, reference voltage that is too high and the radiator fan coming on with just the key on.

You could check out the grounds and battery voltage inputs to the ecm. Other than that I e mm don't have any other suggestions at this time.
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clc
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Hey freegeo, I really appreciate the time and effort you have spend with me.
I'll see what I could do and post it if any changes.
All others that have help, thanks very much.
I'm grateful to all of you who have tried to help.
CLC
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freegeo
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I appreciate you doing your best to test and give us back answers.

There is one other thing, but will have to wait until after work.
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clc
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OK, thanks.
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freegeo
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So as of right now you just have a low idle when starting and after the engine is warmed up? The surging and dying no longer occurs?

Has the fan turning on when the key is turned of stopped also?

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clc
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Correct. Low idle cold and warm. No surging. I have not been driving it so I would not know if it would die out.
The fan does not turn "on" with the key "on"
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freegeo
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That pretty much leaves you with the ISC and the TPS. There is the possible wiring / connection problem. There is no adjustment for the isc, and if your positive the TPS was adjust correctly. Then you may want to try replacing them and see what results you get.

The engine should start and go to around 1800 rpm and slowly go down to about 850 rpm. When was the last time it did that?


Did you get my pm I sent?
Edited by freegeo, Nov 6 2017, 12:37 PM.
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clc
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Because of the climate where I am, after a start in the morning the RPMs never go to 1800. Usually in the low 1000's and maybe for a few seconds at most.
I just responded to your PM. Thanks.
Idle was never an issue when it was surging. The engine would normally start and idle fine. Later after a while driving the surging would start and often would stop and idle normal again. The surging frequency became progressively more frequent.
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clc
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I epoxied a plastic spacer at the throttle end and the idle is around 700.
I drove the car for two 15 trips and ran just fine. No surging and no hesitations. It just takes about 15-20 seconds to warm up a bit to a smooth idle.
Also the CEL was off.
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

awesome... I might try that too this winter... My idle is down to about 600-650 when cold.... It will run like that in summer with cold (65F) engine, but now I must feather the throttle to keep it alive for a minute before it will idle.

My ISC has been unplugged for 20 months. If i take it totally off, it won't idle at all and stalls instantly after starting up.
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freegeo
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The motor in your ISC may be not working.
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clc
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Well, I drove the car today for a few miles and it went back surging and idle at 1500., I removed the plastic spacer and it's idling around 750. How crazy can this be?
I can't make any sense of it.
Anything else you can think to check?
Thanks,
CLC
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