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95 Geo Metro dies while driving
Topic Started: Sep 27 2017, 01:23 PM (3,435 Views)
freegeo
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If you still have a injector signal when the engine won't start. Then it is time to change the injector. Sounds like it is sticking closed.

I have not been able to use a soldering iron to get the bolts too loosen. I have had to use a small torch to get them loose. Word of warning. Don't ever use a torch with out the throttle body being removed from the engine and all the gas has been allowed to evaporate.

You need to get some replacement screws before trying to remove the original ones.
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clc
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Thanks, freegeo.
Do you think that the surging idle issue has to do with the injector also?
Thanks
CLC
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freegeo
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Very possible. Failing injectors can cause a number of problems. Only one way to find out.

Just be careful you don't break the injector holder bolts. That would suck. Just ask ptcapboy.

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Roley
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I had luck using a cheap Harbor Freight heat gun to loosen the bolts. Replaced them with SS button heads left over from a convertible top install.
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suzukitom
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Tom

I use an impact driver to loosen the screws without damaging the Phillips screw head. Below is a how-to link and photo.

Posted Image

https://itstillruns.com/use-hand-impact-driver-4809810.html

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clc
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Thanks for your suggestions.
I have an impact driver but did not have a tip to fit the screw head.
I tried the heat gun and was able to remove one of the screws. The other broke but was able to use a screw extractor and a propane torch to remove it. Threads were not affected at all.
Now off to the auto parts to get two regular head screws, not Philips and some vacuum hoses.
Thanks for your help.
I'll install the injector tomorrow and let you know how it's working.
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freegeo
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Hope that it fixes all your problems. Keep us updated.
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clc
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Thanks, I'll post the results tomorrow.
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clc
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I put it all together and the engine started. After temp reached idle still at 2100. Drove it down the block and rpm still at 2100. Turned "on" AC and rpm went to 1100.
Disconnected vacuum hose on the passenger side of the throttle body that goes to a small white canister and rpm went to 1800. Plugged tube on throttle body to the disconnected vacuum hose with finger and rpm went to 1500.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,

CLC
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freegeo
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So there is no surging any more? Just a high idle?
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clc
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Correct. I had it running for about 10 minutes and no surging. I was just going for a longer ride to see how it runs and tested further.
I will post after I get back.
Thanks freegeo!
CLC
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clc
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Freegeo, this thing is all over the place.
I went for the drive and while in motion in neutral was surging from 1600 to 2100. I turn the AC "on" no surging and idles at 1500.
Got home surging the same and not with the AC "on". Turned the engine on and off a few time and surging stopped but still idle at 2100, turned off and on a few more times and idle at times at 900 other times 1400.
This is crazy.
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freegeo
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Start with checking the TPS . Don't adjust it unless the reading indicates it needs it.
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

There is a real touchy "dance" that takes place between the throttle actual position (at idle), throttle position sensor, Map sensor, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, ISC (or IAC) and the PCM.

Assuming absolutely no unmetered air (vac leaks) and all sensors in correct position, alignment, calibration, or function, it just falls back on the 2 things that are actually adjustable. Throttle idle position and TPS.

It might take a bit of fidgeting with those two to get an acceptable result and there may be some other variables which operate under different conditions like EGR, and VSS that can also make this type of problem a headache, but you can get the low idle down to around 900 and hope for the best.
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clc
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How do I check the TPS? And the throttle idel position?
The VSS, I think it may be OK since the surging was previously taking place at a stop light. I don't knnow why it did not do it this time.
Edited by clc, Oct 18 2017, 11:27 AM.
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