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95 Geo Metro dies while driving
Topic Started: Sep 27 2017, 01:23 PM (3,433 Views)
clc
Member
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I was able to take it for a ride and bring it to temp.
Idle at 2500. Surging. Disconnected the vacuum hose to the MAP and surging stopped.
I'll see what I can find out about testing the MAP and get back to post on Monday.

CLC
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JamesGJr
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Hey, I've been trying to fix my 95 1 liter too. My check engine light is not on and the car runs great while cold, but by the time I get out of the drive way it messes up. The rpm gage drops to 0 and then pops back up. It seems to run fine in my driveway, but as soon as I pull out it starts surging. It seems like a bad connection since it mainly fails while moving. It does keep surging if I'm parked in the road where it's level. It took 30 minutes to get it to back up into the driveway and then it ran fine. This one is really weird. I've been driving this car for over 6 years and have never had engine trouble. The last year I drove it over 100 miles a week. The only problem I had was the timing belt broke back in January then the spark plugs went out a month later, and I had to redo the headlights. Other than that it has been regular maintenance. I have a spare engine I still haven't gotten around to rebuild yet, but I think I'd go for cleaning out the egr system and find out what could change as it warms up first.

What I've found so far is that the timing seems to jump around when mine is surging and stays steady when it's running right. So I put dielectric Greece on all the wire connections under the hood, but it didn't change anything.

Next I guess I'll take the intake off and make sure all the passages are clean. But that doesn't make sense since when the timing goes off it backfires. As far as I know the exhaust valve has to be opening when it fires for that to happen. Seems like a computer to sensor problem to me.
Edited by JamesGJr, Oct 20 2017, 07:56 PM.
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freegeo
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Check the crank timing gear to make sure the keyway has not gotten messed up and allowing the gear to move while the engine is running.
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JamesGJr
Fresh Fish
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Well it appears my front main seal started leaking so I would think the oil getting on the timing belt would be more of an issue, but after it cools down a little while it's back to perfect timing. I'll check the pin when I change that seal, but I have to wait a couple weeks to for the store to get it in.
I would think there would be more chances of the sensor in the distributor and the computer aren't getting a good connection, but I redid both of those today. I need to test that sensor, but I can't find my book.
Edited by JamesGJr, Oct 20 2017, 08:35 PM.
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freegeo
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Some of the codes may have appeared when the engine was cranking over and wouldn't start.
Edited by freegeo, Oct 21 2017, 09:17 AM.
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

James Jr: You Should start a new thread with your issue to avoid confusion of details..

For your timing and spark issue double check both ends of the distributor ground connection... ONe behind the coil on the firewall, one on the bolt by the distributor AND the silly connector between them in the middle of the wire.
The lack of cel indicates a potential wiring issue with crank position sensor or like FreeGeo says a walking crankgear that isn't secured to shaft.
Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Oct 21 2017, 01:12 AM.
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clc
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Hi all.
I finally was able to get to my Geo this evening.
I checked the TPS and the ground wire to the signal wire voltage was .75V. I adjusted it to read 1.0V and it's working well. No surging idle after driving it for a good 10 minutes.
However the idle is at 600 to 650 RPMs.
Any suggestions on how to increase idle RPMs?
Thanks,
CLC
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suzukitom
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Tom

clc
Oct 26 2017, 07:15 PM
Hi all.
I finally was able to get to my Geo this evening.
I checked the TPS and the ground wire to the signal wire voltage was .75V. I adjusted it to read 1.0V and it's working well. No surging idle after driving it for a good 10 minutes.
However the idle is at 600 to 650 RPMs.
Any suggestions on how to increase idle RPMs?
Thanks,
CLC
Did you set the TPS with a 0.14" feeler gauge inserted @ the throttle stop / screw ? The ISC motor should adjust idle speed as needed.
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clc
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No, I failed to do that.
I will do it Monday and post the results.
Thanks.

CLC
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clc
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The positive lead read 5.0V.
Before placing the feeler gauge the TPS read .98V
After placing the feeler gauge the voltage went to .95V. I adjusted the TPS with the .014" in placed and I set it to .99V.
it is still idling at about 600 RPMs.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks.

CLC
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MR1 Kingsbury
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spacer is NOT .014.... It must be .14 or 3.56mm. if using feeler gage, gotta stack em up to get .14".
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David95237


9/64" Allen wrench works good.
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clc
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Thanks guys.
I did the 3.56 mm, adjusted the voltage to .99V and idles at about 650-700 RPMs.
I went back to the car 10 minutes later and the moment I turned the key to the "on" position the radiator fan started going. Disconnected the battery hoping it would reset but after 10 minutes reconnected it and the fan would still turn on with the ignition key to "on".
Tried starting and it wouldn't.
CLC
Edited by clc, Oct 29 2017, 08:41 PM.
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suzukitom
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Tom

The cooling fan operation is based on the temperature sensor so if the coolant is already hot the fan will turn on right away when you turn the key to start the car. On A/ C equipped cars the condenser fan may start if you have A/C switched on.

When you say the engine won't start do you mean the starter doesn't crank or that it cranks but will not start?
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clc
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suzukitom, the fan went on with the A/C off and I had not started the car for 8 hours. Engine was cold.
The fan turned on as soon as I turned the ignition key to the "on" position.
After the above no-start (engine cranked) I disconnected the battery again for 3 hours. Came back turned the ignition key to "on" and the fan did not go on.
Engine started, took it for a drive, brought it to temp. Idle 600 RPMs. Turned engine off, try to start again and cranked but no start. The fan on again with ignition key to "on".
It appears that when the fan goes on with the key to the "on" position there is a malfunction with some sensor or something and the engine won't start. After disconnect of battery there is a reset and mortor would turn on again.

PS: went out 2 hours later the fan did not turn on and the motor started.
Edited by clc, Oct 30 2017, 05:22 PM.
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