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99 Chevy Metro won't rev up; Engine revving/power issue
Topic Started: Sep 29 2017, 01:12 PM (1,176 Views)
Session801
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Hello all,
I'm new here, but would appreciate all the advice I can get.

My 99 Chevy Metro won't really rev up when I give it gas.

This is a new development in a decent streak of attempting to catch up on maintenance.
It's a long story but I'll try to make it short.
Over the past month or two I've been chasing down a pesky oil leak, from changing an old oil pan gasket, to swapping out a leaky crank seal. (with the help of this awesome forum)
After putting in the new seal, and putting it all back together, I started it up and it seemed to idle fine. So when I stepped on the pedal to rev it up, I was surprised (and very sad) to see it just kind of putter and "gargle" instead. :ermm:
It will rev up a little when I give it just a bit of gas, but there is a point when I push past on the pedal that it just starts to putter again.
I thought perhaps I had messed up the timing when putting it back together. But after tearing it apart again, and realigning the timing, Im fairly certain that that's not the issue.
I just want my little Jelly Bean (my metro) to be Happy again.
Any ideas?

I should say that, before changing the crank seal, it ran fine.
In fact, I drove it to the parts store to get the new seal.
But now it won't go ver like 10mph.
Edited by Session801, Sep 29 2017, 01:15 PM.
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freegeo
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What engine do you have ? 1.0 or 1.3?
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Session801
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It's the 1.3
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ptcapboy


on my 96 1.3 I used the wrong mark on my crankshaft gear and the car wouldn't even turn over-I thought the little dimple that aids in the placement of the alternator pulley was the TDC mark-the actual mark is hard to find a little indentation on one of the teeth-you may want to see if your crank gear is at TDC when your cam mark lines up-you can remove the #1 spark plug and use a pencil (make sure it's long enough!) and observe it rise as you rotate the crank with your 17mm socket-as you probably already know when the pencil quits raising it's at TDC-
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Session801
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ptcapboy
Sep 29 2017, 03:57 PM
on my 96 1.3 I used the wrong mark on my crankshaft gear and the car wouldn't even turn over-I thought the little dimple that aids in the placement of the alternator pulley was the TDC mark-the actual mark is hard to find a little indentation on one of the teeth-you may want to see if your crank gear is at TDC when your cam mark lines up-you can remove the #1 spark plug and use a pencil (make sure it's long enough!) and observe it rise as you rotate the crank with your 17mm socket-as you probably already know when the pencil quits raising it's at TDC-
I tried this pencil method when I was trying to get the the timing right, but after removing the spark plug, inserting the pencil, and rotating the gear, the pencil didn't move at all. I assumed that the hole for the spark plug is not directly over the Piston?
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freegeo
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You have a 1999 metro with a 1.3 engine and you put a gasket on the oil pan and it runs?
Edited by freegeo, Sep 29 2017, 05:13 PM.
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Session801
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freegeo
Sep 29 2017, 05:13 PM
You have a 1999 metro with a 1.3 engine and you put a gasket on the oil pan and it runs?
Yes. Drove all the way up to Boise ID and back. Didn't give me this problem until I changed the crank seal.
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freegeo
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Session801
Sep 29 2017, 05:40 PM
freegeo
Sep 29 2017, 05:13 PM
You have a 1999 metro with a 1.3 engine and you put a gasket on the oil pan and it runs?
Yes. Drove all the way up to Boise ID and back. Didn't give me this problem until I changed the crank seal.
Wow. Congratulations. You win the never been done before award then. There has to be a specific gap for the engine too run. Most people that put a gasket on the engine won't start.


Has the crank position sensor been modified?
Edited by freegeo, Sep 29 2017, 06:23 PM.
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freegeo
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Was the crank seal on the timing belt side?
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Session801
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Haha, oh I did have to modify the sensor actually. :thumb

Yes the crank seal was on the timing belt side.
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freegeo
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Well then you don't get the award. Sorry. :D

Will the engine rev normal when not while not moving? Only while driving?
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Session801
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I haven't really tried driving it anywhere since this started.
Just been working on it in the driveway.

Thought maybe it could be a bad throttle position sensor (we tested it with an ohmmeter and it was not being consistent), so we took it off and tried to clean it up. No improvement.
Tomorrow I'm going to run to the junkyard and scavenge one.
I'd spring for a new one, but my local parts store wants $182 for it.
Laughable, since I'm seeing them for like $20 online.

Also it's throwing these codes:
P0134
P0123
P0113
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freegeo
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What all did you have off or apart when you did the crank seal? I will look up the codes in the fsm.
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freegeo
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PO113 IAT sensor circuit high voltage

PO123 TP sensor circuit high voltage

PO134 HO2S Insufficient activity sensor 1

Did you happen to have the IAT or TP sensor unplugged with the key on before checking for codes.

Do you happen to have a scan tool that can read live data from the pcm?
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Woodie
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That sounds like a bad ground to me.

I'd also get rid of the oil pan gasket.
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