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| 99 Chevy Metro won't rev up; Engine revving/power issue | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 29 2017, 01:12 PM (1,178 Views) | |
| ptcapboy | Sep 30 2017, 06:12 AM Post #16 |
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hmmm you know I honestly don't know-but it has to be something related to the job you did since it ran fine before- |
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| geogonfa | Sep 30 2017, 08:48 AM Post #17 |
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Just my .02¢...If it ran fine before the crank seal job then checking the timing marks again would be important... maybe this will help a bit... ![]() |
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| freegeo | Sep 30 2017, 09:04 AM Post #18 |
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Anything you touched while doing the crank seal needs to be revisited. While you have your volt meter handy, check your reference voltage on one of the sensors. Should be right at 5 volts with the key in the on position. Edited by freegeo, Sep 30 2017, 09:06 AM.
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| iBLKBRY | Sep 30 2017, 09:06 AM Post #19 |
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I agree. Check grounds. |
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| geogonfa | Sep 30 2017, 11:26 AM Post #20 |
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You posted... " I started it up and it seemed to idle fine. So when I stepped on the pedal to rev it up, I was surprised (and very sad) to see it just kind of putter and "gargle" instead. It will rev up a little when I give it just a bit of gas, but there is a point when I push past on the pedal that it just starts to putter again." This sentence right here ˄ is typical of not getting the timing marks lined up... |
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| freegeo | Sep 30 2017, 11:39 AM Post #21 |
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The ignition timing is not adjustable on the 99 1.3. |
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| Session801 | Sep 30 2017, 11:45 AM Post #22 |
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Took it apart last night to redo the timing, got it all lined up, fist Piston TDC and all. To get to the crank seal I had to take off the air filter, water pump pulley, and the pulley on the crank shaft. And the timing belt cover of course. Also disconnected the motor from the front passenger side mount so I could raise and lower it to gain access to various bolts. I did have the IAT sensor disconnected off and on at various times. I took screenshots of what my FIXD app was telling me. Edited by Session801, Sep 30 2017, 11:45 AM.
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| freegeo | Sep 30 2017, 11:53 AM Post #23 |
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Have you cleared the codes and those codes still come back? The engine still run the same since you re checked the timing/ Edited by freegeo, Sep 30 2017, 11:55 AM.
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| Session801 | Sep 30 2017, 12:10 PM Post #24 |
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Hmm I haven't cleared them. I'll do that and see what comes up. Yes, it's still running the same. |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Sep 30 2017, 01:35 PM Post #25 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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specifically how did you line it up... I still believe your cam timing is off... 2 things to try. compression test. numbers will be low if belt not aligned correctly... 150-170 is low. timing light shown on the crank PULLEY while idling with the timing jumper in place. timing will be 4 degree after or 14 before... off 1 tooth. Do you have a distributor or are you coil over plugs? Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Sep 30 2017, 01:38 PM.
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| freegeo | Sep 30 2017, 01:51 PM Post #26 |
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His is coil over plugs |
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| ptcapboy | Sep 30 2017, 04:14 PM Post #27 |
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was there a woodruff key on the crank? did you put it back? |
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| Session801 | Sep 30 2017, 04:20 PM Post #28 |
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I cleared the codes, and tried driving it around the block a couple times. (With a Max speed of about 12 miles per hour) Now the only one coming up is the "HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity". Seems like I can get it to rev up a little higher than before, could just be in my head though. If it is, I'm not sure why. Went to the junkyard and, of course, the throttle position sensors from all 3 of the Metros they had were gone. Guess I'm going to go buy a timing light. my companion is convinced it's still a timing issue. By now, I'd bet I could beat the record for fastest person to get the timing cover off. |
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| Session801 | Sep 30 2017, 04:37 PM Post #29 |
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No I don't believe there was one. If I remember right, the key is built in. I know it only went on one way. |
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| Session801 | Sep 30 2017, 05:23 PM Post #30 |
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I posted a video of how it's acting on the YouTube's. Not sure if it will help the diagnosis or not. https://youtu.be/HSWU6Ozj-cU |
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