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| FIAV setting; Throttle-body cleaned need factory setting for the Fast Idle Air Valve | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 14 2017, 01:42 PM (243 Views) | |
| Douglas-D | Oct 14 2017, 01:42 PM Post #1 |
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I had the Throttle body dipped and cleaned all pretty. When I picked it up from the carburetor shop, the guy mentioned "that if I had a hard time starting, (while pointing at the FIAV) screw this (in or out????) to adjust the valve". It was a while ago (and at the time I hardly knew what the FIAV does) and now after searching here, I'm sure I have it set wrong. I had forgotten his little note, and when I put it back together it ran, but took a bit of coaxing to get it started. Now in slightly colder weather I can't get it to run without ether (starting spray) I'm thinking I need to take TB back off and check that adjustment. Can someone tell me how it should be set? Before I head out to work on it, I wanted to consult the hive mind . If I take it off and see it's screwed all the way in or out, I'll try the other way. But it would be nice to know how it's set originaly from the factory or sort of. Thanks I've learned a lot from.... http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=750453&t=4464045 |
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| freegeo | Oct 14 2017, 05:37 PM Post #2 |
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I will have to check, but I don't think there is a setting for the FIAV. It either works or it doesn't. |
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| PTA2PTB | Oct 14 2017, 05:59 PM Post #3 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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I agree with freegeo. The bottom cup piece just needs to be all the way in tight. There is no "adjustment" to it. The spring-loaded plunger seal, driven by the expansion of the wax pellet piece, controls if and when it opens. I don't think your carb shop guy knows jack- , about Geo Metro throttle body operation.
Edited by PTA2PTB, Oct 14 2017, 05:59 PM.
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| freegeo | Oct 14 2017, 11:52 PM Post #4 |
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I checked the FSM and did not find a adjustment for the fast idle air valve. If you are experiencing start up or idling problems, maybe you could give a little more detail of what it is doing. |
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| Douglas-D | Oct 15 2017, 02:25 PM Post #5 |
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Ok thanks guys. I'm working on several issues that have plagued me off and on. Idle is fine... when I get it started with ether. It has been hit or miss on starting it on a regular day. But when cold, I can't get it to go. It's been sitting for awhile... and I'm back at it. I think I'm still going to have to pull the carb to reassure my self that the FIAV is seated as you suggest. I'm also about to fix the "clicky starter" discussed in another thread. I'm wondering if this might be a contributing factor. I'm going with the relay set up that I bought off of EBay. I believe it is made by a guy here on this list. I welcome all input, as I'm just a guy that knows enough to turn a wrench. (barely) I'll let you know how it's going. |
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| freegeo | Oct 15 2017, 04:09 PM Post #6 |
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This engine is not in a vehicle correct? If it is not did you use all the original sensors and ecm?
Edited by freegeo, Oct 15 2017, 04:10 PM.
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| suzukitom | Oct 15 2017, 04:17 PM Post #7 |
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Tom
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The fast idle valve is more likely to fail in a way that keeps idle speed too fast. The wax might dry up so the plunger cannot close any more. On the other hand, the big threaded plastic cap, if screwed in too far into the throttle body, will close off the fast idle port so that no bypass air will be possible during cold starts. |
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| Douglas-D | Oct 15 2017, 07:18 PM Post #8 |
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Yes Freegeo, the G10 has its stock harness and computer from a 94 of unknown mileage. I have a dash light in my instrument pod that allows me to read the ODB1 signals as well. |
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| freegeo | Oct 15 2017, 08:13 PM Post #9 |
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After checking out your throttle body and it still has the same symptoms. I would look at the coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor to see if it is accurate. Check at ambient temperature. There is a resistant chart in the FSM. If you need to know what the values are I can post it. |
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| Douglas-D | Oct 25 2017, 05:11 PM Post #10 |
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Update: DING DING DING... SUZUKITOM WINNS THE PRIZE! The black cap was turned all the way to the bottom completely closing the port. You can't tell by looking in from above the throttlebody, but I did try to poke around with a plastic probe ( the end of a zip tie) seemed a dead end. Once I removed the TB it was obvious it was closed. I turned the cap 1.5 turns counterclockwise. To open small gap. This was a guess as the FSM (yes I have one) doesn't say the factory setting. Put it back together and the car started cold on the first try! Thanks for giving me " a clue" Now I'm back to checking on the rest of the settings I.E. the Throttle stop screw and the mysterious idle screw under the rubber plug that several threads on this list can only offer " don't touch that" advice. Yes I messed with them. If anybody can tell me the original factory positions for these I would be grateful. The FSM explains much... but this topic not so much....says an amateur with a wrench
Edited by Douglas-D, Oct 25 2017, 05:12 PM.
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. If I take it off and see it's screwed all the way in or out, I'll try the other way. But it would be nice to know how it's set originaly from the factory or sort of. Thanks





, about Geo Metro throttle body operation.
3:49 AM Jul 11