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Engine check light codes; Need help figuring out the issue
Topic Started: Oct 20 2017, 06:42 PM (707 Views)
freegeo
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Yes that is correct. What I found interesting is you said that if the reference voltage was off the check engine light would not come on with the key in the on position.
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Moringa
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I learned that bit from when I worked for a Dodge/Chrysler dealership. Any cars that came in with an absent Check Engine light, and no data from the plug, but good battery voltage, we would unplug the sensors one at a time. If you unplug the shorted sensor, then the CE could magically come on. This is a much easier first step, than replacing the PCM, right off the bat.
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freegeo
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Have you had the loss of power problem since the 1st one?
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Dantek15
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No it only happened one time about two-three weeks ago
Edited by Dantek15, Oct 22 2017, 11:27 AM.
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freegeo
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hope it stays that way for you.
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Dantek15
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I haven't had time to attempt cleaning the egr system or ground wires yet, but I reset the CEL a couple days ago and it's hasn't come back on since. I have noticed every now and then it seems to flashed on when I don't have my foot on the gas(noticed it mainly in 4th gear) and then goes away when I press the gas pedal again. Weird? After reading around a bit I think my clutch is slipping as well. The disengage / engage spot is really high up on the clutch pedal and when I push the gas pedal too much it revs really high, but doesn't seem to give it much more power; it returns back to normal when I let off the gas pedal a bit. The reving sounds like if you were to rev it high in neutral. Does that sound like clutch slipping? Besides that the car has been running well as far as I can tell. I'm fairly new to doing maintenance on cars so this is a learning process, bear with me haha. This forum is a fantastic resource and I've already learned a ton about my car, so thank you all very much. :)
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Dantek15
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Moringa
Oct 21 2017, 03:09 PM
One other tidbit, about the bad 5 volt reference. You can develop an intermittent short in a sensor or actuator that uses the 5 volt reference voltage. This should throw a code for THAT part, but when the 5 volt reference is shorted and "pulled away" from other parts that use it, then these items may throw a code as well. A good easy to check symptom of this problem is when you turn the key to the run position, before starting. The PCM is dependent on that 5 volt signal, and cannot function without it. So you sometimes have no check engine light come on, when the key is in the run position before starting, when it should be. In that case, the car will not start, until the 5 volt reference is restored. Next time your car won't start, check to see if the CE light comes on, before cranking.
The CEL does come on before cranking.
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Yes... It seems your clutch is either going out or the cable or sheath has begun to fail and is stretching or collapsing.

where the clutch cable connects to the transmission/clutch actuator bracket, there is an adjustment nut(s) first verify that with the clutch released (all the way up) that the arm is fully relaxed against the stop boss. should be just a bit of slack in the cable... I think 1/4-1/2 inch I've read. With the pedal pushed, that arm should rotate and release the clutch disk. If you have lots of pedal before the arm moves then you likely have a failing/rusted cable sheath.
If your pedal is soft and releases the clutch with very little travel, then pressure plate springs and clutch are likely done for.
Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Oct 31 2017, 02:29 PM.
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Dantek15
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Is what I circled in red what you mean by the stop boss?
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If so it doesn't seem to be fully rested against it when fully released; there is a gap in between. The cable has a similar amount of slack to what you described and doesn't look to be rusted or in bad shape from what I can tell. I think I'm going to attempt to replace the clutch with a friend soon.
Edited by Dantek15, Nov 1 2017, 10:18 PM.
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Woodie
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Dantek15
Nov 1 2017, 10:17 PM
I think I'm going to attempt to replace the clutch with a friend soon.
Your friend is not going to like that at all. It's cramped, loud, and hot in there. B-)

What you've circled is the adjustment screw. There should be a slight gap there, as little as possible.
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