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| Engine check light codes; Need help figuring out the issue | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 20 2017, 06:42 PM (707 Views) | |
| freegeo | Oct 21 2017, 08:06 PM Post #16 |
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Yes that is correct. What I found interesting is you said that if the reference voltage was off the check engine light would not come on with the key in the on position. |
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| Moringa | Oct 21 2017, 08:26 PM Post #17 |
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Living BOT
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I learned that bit from when I worked for a Dodge/Chrysler dealership. Any cars that came in with an absent Check Engine light, and no data from the plug, but good battery voltage, we would unplug the sensors one at a time. If you unplug the shorted sensor, then the CE could magically come on. This is a much easier first step, than replacing the PCM, right off the bat. |
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| freegeo | Oct 21 2017, 11:46 PM Post #18 |
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Have you had the loss of power problem since the 1st one? |
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| Dantek15 | Oct 22 2017, 11:26 AM Post #19 |
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New Member
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No it only happened one time about two-three weeks ago
Edited by Dantek15, Oct 22 2017, 11:27 AM.
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| freegeo | Oct 22 2017, 11:36 AM Post #20 |
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hope it stays that way for you. |
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| Dantek15 | Oct 31 2017, 11:02 AM Post #21 |
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New Member
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I haven't had time to attempt cleaning the egr system or ground wires yet, but I reset the CEL a couple days ago and it's hasn't come back on since. I have noticed every now and then it seems to flashed on when I don't have my foot on the gas(noticed it mainly in 4th gear) and then goes away when I press the gas pedal again. Weird? After reading around a bit I think my clutch is slipping as well. The disengage / engage spot is really high up on the clutch pedal and when I push the gas pedal too much it revs really high, but doesn't seem to give it much more power; it returns back to normal when I let off the gas pedal a bit. The reving sounds like if you were to rev it high in neutral. Does that sound like clutch slipping? Besides that the car has been running well as far as I can tell. I'm fairly new to doing maintenance on cars so this is a learning process, bear with me haha. This forum is a fantastic resource and I've already learned a ton about my car, so thank you all very much.
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| Dantek15 | Oct 31 2017, 11:06 AM Post #22 |
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New Member
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The CEL does come on before cranking. |
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| MR1 Kingsbury | Oct 31 2017, 11:21 AM Post #23 |
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Exp. builder/rebuilder
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Yes... It seems your clutch is either going out or the cable or sheath has begun to fail and is stretching or collapsing. where the clutch cable connects to the transmission/clutch actuator bracket, there is an adjustment nut(s) first verify that with the clutch released (all the way up) that the arm is fully relaxed against the stop boss. should be just a bit of slack in the cable... I think 1/4-1/2 inch I've read. With the pedal pushed, that arm should rotate and release the clutch disk. If you have lots of pedal before the arm moves then you likely have a failing/rusted cable sheath. If your pedal is soft and releases the clutch with very little travel, then pressure plate springs and clutch are likely done for. Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Oct 31 2017, 02:29 PM.
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| Dantek15 | Nov 1 2017, 10:17 PM Post #24 |
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New Member
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Is what I circled in red what you mean by the stop boss? If so it doesn't seem to be fully rested against it when fully released; there is a gap in between. The cable has a similar amount of slack to what you described and doesn't look to be rusted or in bad shape from what I can tell. I think I'm going to attempt to replace the clutch with a friend soon. Edited by Dantek15, Nov 1 2017, 10:18 PM.
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| Woodie | Nov 2 2017, 04:17 AM Post #25 |
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Your friend is not going to like that at all. It's cramped, loud, and hot in there. What you've circled is the adjustment screw. There should be a slight gap there, as little as possible. |
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