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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 26 2017, 10:14 PM (486 Views) | |
| Robert143 | Oct 26 2017, 10:14 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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I have a,93 metro,1.0 It takes forever to get it started when cold. It's fuel injected but it floods. I unplug injector and turn over till dry. Plug in injector turn over it takes several times and then it starts.after it warms it runs great. But idle hi and low hi and low. Any ideas will be Awsome |
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| freegeo | Oct 26 2017, 10:52 PM Post #2 |
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Have you done a compression test on the engine? If it is fuel related. Before starting the engine, take the air cleaner housing off the throttle body and open the throttle. Look into the intake below the throttle body and see if there is any gas that would have leaked out of the injector. |
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| PTA2PTB | Oct 27 2017, 11:33 AM Post #3 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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I'm not sure if this works on Metro's, but I have read, on a different forum involving a different Suzuki variant - the Sidekick/Trackers, that Suzuki has a provision for a flooded condition, whereby, you hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank it. It's supposed to cut the fuel feed off. You should try it. Obviously, this won't help you with your ultimate problem, but it would be one hell of a lot easier than disconnecting the injector to clear the flooding. |
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 12:00 PM Post #4 |
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Tom
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Freegeo did some scope tests to illustrate the g10 flood clear feature. Read here: http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=3006831&t=8029874 |
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| freegeo | Oct 27 2017, 12:53 PM Post #5 |
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While it is a excellent suggestion, the metro does not have a flood clear mode. I have never been able to check the 98 up 1.3 4 cylinders that have multiple fuel injectors, but the FSM doesn't mention anything about them having it. If anyone has information about it having it i would love to see it. |
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 04:20 PM Post #6 |
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Tom
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Fixkick described on his website an undocumented feature about how Suzuki TBI ECU will command a fuel cut (flood clear) whenever TPS voltage approaches 4 volts. I know you did not find this behavior on your Geo, but it would be worth verifying on another model or sample. Freegeo was your wot TPS voltage near 4v? Edit: I will look for whether it is mentioned in my 00 Metro owners manual later Edited by suzukitom, Oct 27 2017, 04:25 PM.
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| freegeo | Oct 27 2017, 04:28 PM Post #7 |
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Do you have a link or website name for fixkick? I have looked in my 1999 FSM and didn't see it mentioned but by all means please look and see if you can find something. |
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 04:49 PM Post #8 |
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Tom
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Here you go. He used to be very active on multiple Suzuki forums until he started his own forum focusing on 4wd Suzukis http://www.fixkick.com/flooding.html |
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| Azhule | Oct 27 2017, 04:51 PM Post #9 |
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Elite Member
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Had a peek in my 1997 LSi owners manual (didn't check the Factory Service Manual yet), looked under "Tips on starting your car pages 2-11 and (continued on) 2-12" Starting Your Engine (for cold and warm engines) 1) Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your engine gets warm. 2) If it doesn't start within three seconds, push the accelerator pedal one-third of the way down and hold it there while you turn your key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key and release the pedal. Wait about 15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery and overheating starter motor 3) If your engine still wont start (or starts but then stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in START for about three seconds. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but this time keep the pedal down for five or six seconds. This clears the extra gasoline from the engine.
Edited by Azhule, Oct 27 2017, 04:52 PM.
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 04:57 PM Post #10 |
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Tom
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Page 2-12 of 00 Chev Metro owners manual. 2-12 Starting Your Engine For cold and warm engines -- 1. Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your engine gets warm. NOTICE: Holding your key in START for longer than 15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat can damage your starter motor. Wait about 15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery or damaging your starter. 2. If it doesn’t start within three seconds, push the accelerator pedal one-third of the way down and hold it there while you turn your key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key and release the pedal. Wait about 15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery or damaging your starter. 3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in START for about three seconds. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but this time keep the pedal down for five or six seconds. This clears the extra gasoline from the engine. |
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 05:02 PM Post #11 |
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Tom
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Looks like Azhule beat me to the copy paste from owners manual Freegeo, I could not tell from your scope picture whether your WOT TPS voltage was 3V or 4V.. So if your TPS is less than some design threshold voltage that could explain why you did not see fuel cut behaviour
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| freegeo | Oct 27 2017, 06:24 PM Post #12 |
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The WOT throttle voltage is 4 volts on the flood clear graph I did. I have read what the owners manual shows for starting tips. I agree with the procedure that it can help start the car. That doesn't mean it shuts the injector off while cranking it. For those of you that have a noid light, you can check it yourself. Just hook it up to the injector wiring, hold the gas pedal too the floor and crank it over. See if the noid light still flashes. Edited by freegeo, Oct 27 2017, 06:31 PM.
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| MarkZ28 | Oct 27 2017, 07:12 PM Post #13 |
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Every car that has had fuel injection does the same thing. Japanese, Euro, or US cars that I have owned all clear a flooded engine the same way. Even carb engines were done that way. With the throttle wide open, not enough air flows past the venturis to suck gas out, and the idle circuit wont flow either. |
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| freegeo | Oct 27 2017, 08:29 PM Post #14 |
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I guess it depends on what you consider floor clear mode , or clear flood mode to be. If just pressing the gas pedal to the floor and cranking it over is flood clear mode than that's fine. Me personally I considered it to be the injector being shut off with the gas pedal fully depressed. At least on a car with electronic fuel injection. Edited by freegeo, Oct 27 2017, 08:30 PM.
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| suzukitom | Oct 27 2017, 08:49 PM Post #15 |
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Tom
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Fixkick (A Suzuki tech) described it as the ECU suppressing fuel injection whenever TPS voltage is 4V (WOT) and engine is cranking, not yet running). I don't know how it works personally but I'd like to do the noid test you suggest this weekend. Not sure if I can realistically simulate a flood condition unless i have some excess residual gas in the TB or intake manifold. |
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