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No hot air blowing (just like everyone else)
Topic Started: Dec 14 2017, 01:44 AM (336 Views)
GeoCentralWA
Fresh Fish
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Hi all- I've read through some of the helpful posts here and was able to (probably) eliminate the zip tie fix to the switch. The switch seemed intact and fine. It started out not working at lower levels, and finally stopped blowing air at all, so based on the info I was able to find, I tried looking in to that first.

So, with that presumably eliminated, I could use some really clear, basic instructions on what to try and troubleshoot next. I am strapped for cash but am handy if I have really clear instructions.

This is my work car and I drive 4 hours a day with the window down, and it's now sub-freezing daytime temps where I am. There's only so much bundling up I can do before my feet freeze, at the very least! I could use some fast, clear tips ASAP.

Thanks!



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suzukitom
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Tom

The blower fan assembly is located below the glove box door.

(1) Check for a blown fuse to the blower fan.
(2) Check for a loose 2 wire connector to the blower motor (part #7 in the diagram)
(3) Check for a loose wire to the blower motor resistor (part # 2 in the diagram)

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Edited by suzukitom, Dec 14 2017, 02:28 AM.
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suzukitom
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Tom


If the blower motor does not run, you can test the motor by removing it from the housing. It is attached to the blower housing (part #1) with 3 bolts (you can use a 10 mm socket and ratchet. Some bolt heads also allow you to use a large Phillips head screwdriver if you don't have a 10 mm socket).

Once you remove the motor and unplug the 2 wire connector, you can test the motor directly by briefly touching + 12 V to one terminal and - ground to the other terminal. The motor should turn at full speed. Be careful.. the fan blade (part #5) will spin as well during this test! The direct 12V test supplied to the motor is equivalent to the fan speed switch set to max speed.

The blower motor resistor is not usually suspected to be faulty unless only some of the fan speeds don't work.
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

can I ask how how you ruled out the fan switch as the culprit? It would appear intact to the eye and still not function and your symptoms are pretty classic....next in line with them cutting out a few at a time I would suspect the resistor
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GeoCentralWA
Fresh Fish
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Dystopia, I diagnosed it based on the info of how to fix it with a zip tie. The switch looked completely normal rather than falling apart. If there is another way to diagnose it, I'm all ears :) It was easy to get to, so going back in would be fine if it will help.

Tom, thanks for the detailed info. Where do I look for the fuse, first and foremost?
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geogonfa
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Here is a diagnostic Chart link:

Link

just follow the diagnostic tree that describes your problem...don't skip a step, test/check what is listed and you will find your problem...

Fuse box under the left side of the dash...

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Let us know what you find... :type
Edited by Metromightymouse, Dec 14 2017, 01:46 PM.
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macuserman
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Jiggle your key in the ignition, try turning it a little bit one way or the other not a full click. That was the problem with mine, I need to replace it but for now I just jiggle it till it comes on and leave it.
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

when mine failed I could reach my hand up around inside with the glove box dropped down and just push down on the top of it and get it to turn off and and on....and then again when I used too soft of a hose the first time and it kinda collapsed and had to redo it with a stiffer hose....I don't remember exactly how they say to diagnose it but if that doesn't affect it youll have to get in there and put meter on it. Geogonfa is definitely right on with the flow chart....
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CaptainMetro
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GeoCentralWA
Dec 14 2017, 04:51 AM
Dystopia, I diagnosed it based on the info of how to fix it with a zip tie. The switch looked completely normal rather than falling apart. If there is another way to diagnose it, I'm all ears :) It was easy to get to, so going back in would be fine if it will help.

Tom, thanks for the detailed info. Where do I look for the fuse, first and foremost?
I live in Winlock and can check it out for you.
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Mythstae
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Thought it couldn't possibly need the zip tie fix in my Swift, my switch was still clicky!

It needed the zip tie fix.
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Highwayman
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My 92 has 485000 miles on it. I have been driving it 17 years. The zip tie fix worked for a while. I took it apart and put the ball back twice. The copper channels eventually got too burned so I bypassed the switch and installed a heavy duty toggle. I now only have high and low speed. I have had to replace the blower motor twice. The brushes wear out every few years when you drive in the cold a lot as I do. The last time my motor quit it had a dead mouse jammed in it. A mouse will enter the blower cage via the outside vents under the wipers. I put a screen cage over the inlet on the heater to keep the mice out. If your switch feels loose rather than clicky you will need to disassemble it and put the ball back in place then zip tie it. If your broke but still have to deliver mail or newspapers in the cold; you can unplug the switch for now and jump it so it runs on high all the time. If you have a leaky exhaust system or drive with the window down you want to leave the fan on to avoid asphyxiation any way. Good luck.
Edited by Highwayman, Dec 16 2017, 10:28 PM.
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